Alfalfa sprouts are nutritious, have a variety of uses, and couldn’t be simpler to grow. With a growth time of just a couple of days, you can always have fresh sprouts available for use on salads, sandwiches and many other delightful treats.

What You Will Need:

• Quart sized glass jar (the kind used for canning)
• Alfalfa seeds
• Water
• Screen, woven material or old pantyhose
• Rubber band, string, or jar lid (just the ring part)

How to Grow Alfalfa Sprouts:

1. It’s often best to start small and continue to grow sprouts. They quickly grow and you don’t want to have too many when you first start eating them.
2. Begin by placing 2-3 tablespoons of seeds on a plate and carefully inspect them for any damaged, withered or otherwise unhealthy seeds. Discard any bad seeds and place the rest into the glass jar.
3. Prepare the top of the jar by covering it with the woven fabric, screen, or hose. Keep the cover secure with a rubber band, string or lid ring.
4. Cover the seeds with water. Fill the jar with water to a height of 1-2 inches above the seeds.
5. Set the jar on the counter and allow the seeds to soak overnight.
6. After the seeds have soaked overnight, remove the water by simply turning the jar over and allowing the water to drain through the cloth. Ensure that all the water is out or it may cause the seeds to rot. Do not remove the seeds from the container.
7. Roll the container around to distribute the seeds all around the outside and let it remain on its side.
8. The sprouts will grow best in slightly warmer temperatures, but do not need sunlight at this point.
9. Rinse the seeds and jar everyday with cool water, twice a day if the temperatures are warmer. This step is important to remove any disease organisms or toxins that may accumulate in the jar while it sets. If a funky smell develops in the jar, you need to rinse it more often.
10. Continue rinsing for 4-5 days until the sprouts are ready to harvest. Typically the sprouts will be between 1-2 inches in length when they are ready to be harvested.
11. Simply give them a good rinse and shake away any excess water.
12. Spread the sprouts out on a tray or plate and place them in the sun for a short while, only 15 minutes or so. This allows the leaves to turn greener and important enzymes to become activated.
13. They’re ready to use immediately on salads, sandwiches, soups, dips – whatever you please!
14. Start a new jar every few days and it’ll be ready when the first one is all consumed.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Not all water is fit to drink, much less grow sprouts. Ensure that you use quality water to keep your sprouts as healthy and nutritional as possible.
• Another method is to place the seeds on a clean tray from a red clay pot. Set the tray in a dish with water. The clay tray will gradually soak up the water offering the right amount of moisture for the seeds to sprout.
• If you want to remove the brown seed coats, simply place the sprouts in a bowl of water, swish them around a little. The seed coats will float to the top where you can easily remove them.
• To keep your sprouts fresh, store them in the refrigerator.

If you’re planning to grow herbs, chances are oregano is going to be included in your selection. Good choice! Oregano is easy to grow and is a perennial herb, meaning that it continues to grow year after year. Whether you’re planting in your garden or as a houseplant, oregano is sure to be a winner.

Before You Plant Oregano

Find a Suitable Place:

• Oregano is a perennial, it typically produces quality leaves for 2-4 years, so choose an appropriate spot where it can stay.
• Marked by its Mediterranean origin, oregano likes to grow in full sun.

Prepare the soil:

• Light chalky soil is best for this herb.
• Oregano also requires well-drained soil.
• Fortunately, very little preparation is needed as oregano typically grows just fine in average soil.

Planting/Growing Oregano

What You Will Need:

• Oregano seeds
• Mulch
• Fertilizer (only for container plants)
• Garden spade
• Stick or other row marker

How to Plant Oregano:

1. Oregano seeds can be sown directly into the soil in the beginning of spring, usually around April.
2. Work the dirt with the garden spade until loose and form the rows marked with a labeled stick.
3. Plant the seeds 3/4 inch deep and 6 inches apart. Rows should be spaced 18 inches apart.
4. Cover with removed soil and pat gently to cover.
5. Water until soil is moist and cover the area with mulch to retain moisture and prevent weeds.
6. Seeds will sprout in approximately 2 weeks.
7. When seeds have sprouted, thin plants to 12 inches apart.
8. Seeds can also be started in containers around March and transplanted 12 inches apart.
9. Keep the soil moist for the first few months, after which the plant will be able to tolerate dry conditions, including drought.
10. Avoid adding fertilizer to garden plants to keep the flavor strong.
11. If planting oregano in a container, follow the same planting procedures to start. Transplant the seedlings to a 12 inch pot at the end of spring, usually around May.
12. Water container only when dry and feed twice during the growing season.
13. Oregano plants can grow a bit out of control, so cut back straying stems regularly to keep the plant at the optimum size.
14. At the end of the season, cut back the leaves and cover the area with mulch to protect the roots from the cold winter.

Harvesting Oregano

What You Will Need:

• Garden clippers or scissors

Steps for Care and Maintenance:

1. As soon as the plant is several inches tall and has developed a couple dozen leaves, it is okay to begin harvesting.
2. Pick the young leaves as they have the most flavor.
3. It is best to harvest early in the morning while the oils are the strongest.
4. Leaves are best harvested right before flowers form, usually in July. If seeds have already developed, the leaves will most likely have developed a bitter taste.
5. To extend the harvesting season, trim off the flowers as soon as they begin to develop. This stops the production of seeds allowing harvesting to take place into November.
6. Allow the plant to remain as the leaves provide necessary protection from frost and the cold winter. New plants will emerge in the spring.
7. Once the herb is rinsed with cold water, it’s ready to use, just chop for cooking or store whole leaves in Ziploc bags in the freezer or refrigerator.
8. Some feel oregano is best used dried. Harvest the leaves on a dry day and allow keep in a cool dark place until they are thoroughly dried out. Store in an airtight container. Dried oregano will last for 3-4 months.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Since the leaves of the oregano are eaten, avoid using any pesticides or sprays. If pests become a problem, try an organic treatment. Be sure to check the label carefully.
• Oregano is a must-have for Italian cooking. You simply can’t have pizza or spaghetti sauce without it!
• After 2-4 years, the plant starts to get woody and will need to be replaced.
• Oregano is a great companion plant for broccoli and beans. It deters the pests that tend to attack these vegetables.

The rose is the undisputed queen of the garden. Amazingly delicate and with an unmatched beauty, roses are surprisingly easy to grow under the right conditions. In fact, a simple patch of sunlight is all you need to coax one of these stunning flowers from a dainty bud to an exquisite bloom. Best of all, with more than 7,000 varieties of roses worldwide, you are sure to find one just right for your own garden in almost any climate!

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type of Rose:

• Hybrid Tea Roses are the most familiar plants. They grow in bush form, with flowers appearing at the ends of long, straight stems. Unattended, these bushes can grow to several feet in diameter and produce hundreds of full, florist-quality blooms.
• Floribunda or Climbing Roses are perfectly partnered with trellises and fencing. With proper support, they can grow more than 12 feet in a single season. They are characterized by a single row of petals, with flowers occurring in clusters.
• Miniature Roses feature tiny, perfect blooms on tightly formed bushes, usually only one to three feet in size. They are great additions to spaces where the delicate beauty of a rose is desired but there’s simply not enough room for the rambling, sometimes unruly vine or bush types.

Find a Suitable Place:

• Roses prefer sunny, well drained beds. Choose an area with at least four hours of direct sun each day. Most varieties grow well in USDA zones 4-9, which includes all but the northern- and southernmost extremities of the US, although hardy varieties for other regions can be found at local nurseries.
• Avoid areas with standing water. Roses love moisture, but will quickly die if they are forced to remain wet. Amend heavy soils with a sandy mixture to improve drainage, or simply create a raised bed for your roses.
• If soil is too dry, roses will not prosper. Amend the soil with organic matter such as peat, compost, or manure. Sandy soils may require the addition of topsoil to achieve optimum conditions.

Prepare the soil:

• To achieve a rich, dark soil with proper drainage, add peat, compost, loam, and manure to less than ideal soils. Work the organic matter into the soil until you have strong, earthy topsoil that holds moisture without becoming bogged down. If soil is too wet, add sand or raise the bed to create natural drainage.
• Most roses should be planted in spring or fall. Either time allows the roots to establish before the shock of extreme weather conditions related to hot summers and cold winters, although spring is more forgiving than winter in most cases. For less than optimal planting times, consider a potted plant instead of a bare root rose.

Container roses are more adaptive to the transplant process, as there is less disruption to the root system and therefore less shock to the plant.

Planting/Growing Roses

What You Will Need:

• Roses
• Small shovel
• Prepared soil
• Garden clippers
• Fertilizer made for roses

Steps for Planting Bare Root Roses:

1. Select a location with proper soil conditions and plenty of sunshine.
2. Trim all bruised, broken, or otherwise damaged branches or roots from the plant.
3. Cut the top growth back to 6″-8″ from the root ball.
4. Dig holes which are large enough for the roots without bending or breaking them. Make the hole a full 6″ deeper than the proper planting depth.
5. Add a bit of sand, small rocks, or pebbles to the bottom of the hole to help with drainage.
6. Combine approximately one tablespoon of rose fertilizer with loose soil before mounding the mixture at the bottom of the hole, creating a sloped surface to fully support the natural shape of the roots.
7. Once the rose has been positioned so that the roots will be below ground and the top growth is above ground level, begin to replace the soil around the plant, stopping to pack it gently but firmly several times as you work.
8. Mulch the plant to protect against weeds and hold in moisture.
9. Water roses in the morning, and only when the dirt feels dry two inches below the surface of the ground. Over watering will kill the rose, no matter how carefully you prepared the soil and the drainage. Water deeply to encourage root growth, monitoring the frequency as suggested. One good watering is worth more to the health of your plant than several smaller ones.

Steps for Planting Potted Roses:

1. Container roses can be planted nearly any time of the year, so long as the ground is not frozen. Ideally, plant in the spring or fall.
2. Dig a hole that is two times larger than the pot the rose is in.
3. Backfill the bottom with enough loose soil so that when you place the rose in the hole, the level of the dirt in the pot matches that of the ground.
4. Carefully remove the rose and root ball from the container. Do not jerk on the plant or lift it by the trunk.
5. Very carefully, loosen the dirt on the root ball, gently freeing some of the material.
6. Place the rose in the hole, firmly patting the remaining dirt around the plant.
7. Follow steps 8-9 to complete the planting process.

Growing/Pruning Roses

Follow these easy steps for a show-stopping display of blooms from early spring through frost!

What You Will Need:

• Pruning shears
• Stakes
• Coated wire
• Trellis or fence
• Rose food

Steps for Care and Maintenance:

1. Feed roses 3-6 times a year, or as directed on the package, beginning with a feeding in the spring as the plant begins growth. Remove mulch and work plant food into the soil around the plant, or use a liquid rose food that will drain into the soil.
2. Keep roses mulched to retain moisture and deter weeds.
3. Always water roses in the morning and at ground level. Avoid spraying the leaves with water, as the sun can “burn” them easily, causing damage to the plant.
4. Use pruning shears to removed dead blooms, clip damaged branches, or remove all but one bud from a single stem to increase your chances of growing one truly amazing rose.
5. Once climbing roses take off, be sure to support them with a trellis or fence. Particularly heavy canes may need to be gently tied to the vertical surface for additional support, which is almost surely needed once they are laden with blooms.
6. Large bush-type roses may also need to be staked. Use a sturdy stake and coated wire to firmly hold thick branches in place.
7. Use pruning shears to trim out weaker branches where they contact others for a healthier plant.
8. Each spring, cut roses back, leaving 6″-8″ canes. Damaged canes should be cut off cleanly.
9. Winterize roses by mulching heavily with peat or straw.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Always consult the tag or planting and care directions included with your rose before planting. There are literally thousands of varieties of roses, and each one may require a certain detail of care that was not mentioned here.
• Removing dead blooms, or deadheading, encourages new growth and a healthy plant.
• Properly space plants, using information on the tag. Crowded roses are more likely to become damaged or diseased.

Stevia (or stevia rebaudiana) is an herb that has been the focus of much unjustified controversy and for a while was under strict scrutiny by the FDA. The plant originated in Paraguay and is sometimes known as “Sweet Herb of Paraguay.” Concentrated Stevia powder is sold in many natural food stores as a dietary supplement, but it is know for the sweetness in lieu of high calorie sugar, although due to restrictions, it cannot currently be sold as a “natural sweetener,” even though that’s what it is often used for. Home-grown Stevia lacks the potency of the refined powder sold in stores, which has a stevioside content (the stuff that makes Stevia sweet) of about 81 to 91 percent. The stevioside content in a home grown Stevia leaf is about 12 percent. Still home grown Stevia leaves can act as a nice supplement to the Stevia powder that you already use.

Before you Plant

Choose the Right Type of Stevia:

• Stevia grows fairly quickly in moderate temperatures and can be grown in most climates zone so long as the temperature stays above 40 degrees for the length of the growing season. Of course, depending upon your zone, the length of your Stevia growing season may vary.
• Young Stevia plants are sensitive to cold and frost, and should only be planted outdoors after the danger of the last frost has passed, and the soil has warmed up to 50 or 60 degrees Fahrenheit. In the coldest zones (Zones 1 and 2) this means you might not be planting until mid to late June. In the warmest zones (Zones 10 and 11) you may be planting as early as January or February.
• In the colder zones, Stevia should be treated as an annual, and will need to be replanted every year. In the warmer climates where the winters are not harsh, Stevia can be treated as a perennial and will likely survive for two or three harvests.
• Stevia also does well in a container and can be grown indoors, so long as you have sufficient lighting.
• It maybe difficult to find Stevia plants for transplanting, and you may have to do a bit of digging to find someone who sells them. Check with your local natural foods stores. There are also several mail-order businesses that will ship the Stevia plants to you. Even then, the potency of the Stevia leaves may vary from one distributer to another, so it is best to ask around to find one who is reputable and with whom others have had good experiences.

Find a Suitable Place

• Stevia prefers sunlight, but will do fine with light shade, especially if you’re planting in one of the warmer climates where temperatures may climb over 100 degrees in the summer.
• The garden patch where you intend to plant the Stevia should be well-drained and not subject to standing water. Consider planting at the top of a gentle slope. Do not choose a spot that is at the bottom of a hill or slope, where water would tend to pond.
• Stevia does best when it’s planted by itself, not with other herbs or flowers.
• If planting Stevia in a container garden, make sure it is in a spot that gets adequate sunlight, and that is protected from frost and cold.

Prepare the Soil:

• Stevia thrives well in rich, loamy soil; the soil should have plenty of compost.
• In their natural environment, Stevia is found in soil with a pH content of 4 to 5, but it will do fine in soil with pH contents as high as 9.
• Prior to planting, turn the soil with a garden spade, mixing in the compost and removing large weeds, twigs, branches, rocks, stones and other debris.
• You should clear the soil of as many weeds as possible because once the weeds take root, it will be difficult to take them out without disturbing the Stevia, whose roots tend to run shallow.
• The temperature of the soil should be above 50 degrees, and ideally in the 60 degree range.

Planting and Growing Stevia

What You Will Need:

• Gardening gloves
• Started Stevia plants
• Prepared soil (see above)
• Garden Trowel
• Mulch

Steps for Planting and Growing Stevia:

1. Of course, Stevia can be started by seeds, but it is definitely not recommended. Stevia seeds are incredibly hard to germinate and the plants they produce are inconsistent with regard to stevioside content (sweetness levels). Consequently, the best way to cultivate Stevia is to use plants that have been started.
2. Prepare a hole large enough to accommodate the roots of your young Stevia plant.
3. Gently remove the Stevia plant from the starter container (keeping some soil around the roots) and place in the prepared hole.
4. Fill the hole around the plant up to its base with soil, and tamp down so that the plant stays secure.
5. Water the area lightly.
6. Place a generous amount of mulch around the base of the plant to protect the roots, which tend to run shallow, from drying out.
7. Allow at least 18 inches between your Stevia plants and about 20 to 24 inches between the rows to allow for proper growth. Stevia will grow about 2&½ feet high with a spread of about 2 feet.

Maintenance and Harvesting Stevia

What You Will Need:

• Gardening Gloves
• Gardening hose or watering can
• Fertilizer (low in nitrogen)
• Pruning Shears
• Drying screen or net
• Coffee grinder (optional)

Steps for Maintaining and Harvesting Stevia:

1. Water your Stevia plants just enough to keep them from wilting; overwatering will reduce the production of stevioside and can cause the roots to rot.
2. Leaf production can be enhanced by periodic application of fertilizer. Fertilizers low in nitrogen seem to work best.
3. If your plant starts to develop flowers, it is best to pinch them off before they bloom; allowing the flower to bloom will cut down on leaf production, and cause the leaf to take on a bitter taste.
4. Harvest your Stevia leaves in late autumn. The cool autumn temperatures and shorter days intensify the sweetness so many gardeners will postpone the harvest as long as possible.
5. Cut the branches of your Stevia plant with a pruning shears prior to stripping the leaves; this will make the task easier. You may also want to clip the very tips of the stems as they contain nearly as much stevioside as the leaves.
6. Once you have harvested your leaves, dry them by laying them on a screen or net and keep them in a warm location with good air circulation. If the days are still warm enough, you may want to keep them outdoors in the sun, which should have them dried in about 12 hours. Otherwise, you should keep them inside and preferably place them under a light or low level heat lamp to speed drying. Drying that takes longer than 12 hours may have an adverse affect on the sweetness of the leaves.
7. Crushing the leaves is the final step in releasing the sweetness of the Stevia plant. For this step, try using a coffee grinder; it will give you a finer powder and is a lot quicker than grinding the leaves by hand.

Additional Tips and Advice

• In the warmer climates, if you don’t cut your Stevia stems down too far, the plant will likely bloom again. However, you should only get about two seasons out of the plant, after which the plant will not be as productive and the leaves will start to lose their sweetness.
• In the colder climates, your Stevia plant won’t likely survive the winter so you will need to replant in the spring. Try propagating your plant from your existing Stevia plant before the winter sets in by taking a cutting from your plant, coating the end in root hormone and planting it in a rooting medium for two to three weeks. Then, it should be re-potted in rich potting soil and kept indoors in a warm, sunny location. When the warm weather of spring arrives, you can transplant it into your garden.
• You can make your own liquid Stevia by adding a cup of warm water to ¼ cup of finely crushed Stevia leaves. Let the mixture set for 24 hours and store in the refrigerator. The Stevia leaves will not dissolve, but they will transfer their sweetness to the water.
• Stevia does have its limitations and it is not a true substitute for sugar in all instances. It doesn’t dissolve and does have an aftertaste that some people find unpleasant. Rather than a sugar substitute, consider it more as a flavoring, as you would any other herb, and you will surely find some enjoyable uses for it.

Starting a vineyard is no small task, but is one that can reap big rewards. With careful planning and execution, you can ensure that your vineyard will provide abundant crops for many years.

Before You Plant

Select the Right Site:

There are many factors to consider when choosing the perfect place for your vineyard.

• Climate – Take a close look at the high/low temperatures and frost-free periods for your area. Factors such as wind and altitude are also important to note. These factors help in determining where your vineyard will prosper.
• Sunlight – Grapes require sun to grow well. Find an area that is away from trees and other shade-producing plants.
• Soils – The quality of the soil in the area is another key factor. Consider the fertility, types of soils, drainage and the depth of the soil.
• Water – This includes both the quality as well as water sources. How much water is available from wells, etc. in the area and what irrigation options are available?
• Field Size – How large will your vineyard be? Determine this early on when you decide which grapes you plan to grow and how much room they will require.
• Wineries – Ultimately, you’ll want to produce wine from your grapes. If you are not completing this yourself, how close is the nearest winery?
• Other factors – Agricultural zoning and regulations, sources of power and cost of the land are other considerations that need to be thought out when choosing a place to start your vineyard.

How to Select Grapes:

There are four major types of grapes grown around the world:

1. Vitis Vinifera
2. Vitis Lubrusca,
3. Hybrids of these two
4. Vitis Rotoundifolia.

Research which type will grow best in your location and/or visit local vineyards to see what types of grapes grow well in your area.

Prepare the Soil:

• Remove the top layer of dirt, including all weeds and roots, and discard.
• Till the soil thoroughly to provide loose, workable ground for planting.

Planting Vines

What You Will Need:

• Grapevine (with roots established)
• Small shovel or spade
• Trellis or grape arbor
• Copper wire or string
• Plastic mesh
• Potting soil
• Fertilizer (10-20-10)

How to Plant Grapes:

1. Begin by marking the rows by making 3-4 inch grooves through the loosened soil.
2. Next, place stakes where each grapevine will be planted. Space plants 6-8 feet apart.
3. Dig a hole that is twice the size of the pot that your vines are planted in and slightly deeper.
4. Mix potting soil with the original soil and place a small amount of the mixture into the hole.
5. Water the bottom of the hole as well as the plant in the pot prior to planting.
6. Place the grapevine into the hole and fill in with remaining soil mixture.
7. Water regularly during dry conditions, but do not allow the plants to become water-logged as this can lead to root rot.
8. Fertilize the vines twice each year around the base (at least six inches out), do not allow fertilizer to get too close or it may burn the plant. Water the area to release the fertilizer.
9. Plants will begin to grow in the spring, if planted in the fall. If you are planting in the spring, you will see some growth, but most likely will not have grapes for another year or two.

Year Two:

1. This year you want to begin training the vines where to grow. This is accomplished by tying them to the trellis or posts in the direction they should grow.
2. When fruit begins to grow, add plastic mesh over the plants to prevent birds from eating them.

Pruning/Harvesting Grapes

Pruning your grapevines is the most important part of this ‘art.’ Pruning allows you to manage the plant, regulate the size of the crop and adjust the quality of the fruit.

What You Will Need:

• Clippers / lopping shears

Learning When and How to Prune:

1. The art of pruning is developed over time and is affected mostly by your desired outcome. Here are some pruning times, each with different outcomes:
   • Summer Pruning to Increase Fruit Growth: Trim back vines when they have exceeded 2-3 feet of growth. This directs the energy back into the fruit, rather than plant growth, making a sweeter, more productive crop.
   • Fall Pruning: These prunings are not recommended and should only be done if you are sure there will be no warm spells that would allow growth before winter. Typically it is best to wait and do a winter pruning.
   • Winter/Spring Pruning: Most plants are pruned in late winter to allow for new growth. The key to this is pruning early enough that new growth has not already begun and late enough that no new growth will form before a frost. If this happens, it will lead to freeze damage which is dangerous for your grapevines. It is often best to prune no more than one month before the last frost.
2. Pruning is a detailed process, there are even books devoted to pruning grapevines. Here are some basic rules to get you started.
   • Lateral shoots (those growing to the side) are not fruitful and should be removed. Only keep these shoots if you need them to grow onto the trellis for support.
   • Prune new shoots way back the first few years to encourage growth of the main vine.
   • Keep the first 6-12 buds on the cane, these produce the fruit, and trim back the rest unless they are needed for trellis support.
   • Prune any brown or brittle buds as they have been winter damaged and need to be removed.
   • Prune away enough of the vine to allow plenty of air and sunlight to reach the fruit and vines.
3. Harvest your grapes when the grape at the bottom of the bunch is sweet. If some of the grapes are not fully ripened, they can be ripened by setting in the sun for a day or two.

Ginger is popular in American food, but it’s practically a staple in Asian cuisine. Not only is it easy to grow and delicious in recipes, but studies show that ginger packs powerful health benefits. Although it is a tropical plant, it will adapt easily to indoor and container planting, making it possible for anyone to enjoy fresh ginger throughout much of the year. Here’s what you need to know to bring this favorite into your own kitchen.

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type of Ginger:

• For practical purposes, ginger is most often home-grown from tubers. Your local grocery store is the best place to find ginger root to propagate.
• The most popular kind of ginger is basic ginger root (Zingiber officinale). It is commonly used in America for cookies, breads, and Ginger ales, while Asian recipes include ginger in savory dishes.
• Choose a tuber that looks healthy and plump. It should be firm with several fingers or growing buds. Avoid dry or damaged pieces.
• Not all gingers are considered edible, some types are instead prized for the plants and flowers.

Find a Suitable Place:

• Plan to grow ginger indoors unless you live in the extreme southern portions of the U.S. or in one of the desert states. Growers in zone 10 or higher will have the most success outdoors.
• Provide your ginger with a generous amount of room. Containers should be fully twice the size of the tuber. To plant more than one tuber in a single container, get one that is 14″-16″ in diameter and 12″ deep.
• Outdoors, choose a spot with light shade and well-drained soil.
• Protect plants from high winds.

Prepare the soil:

• Mix organic material or prepared compost into soil to fill the container (or amend garden soil in the same manner).
• Ginger will grow quite well in commercially prepared potting soil.

Planting/Growing Ginger

What You Will Need:

• Ginger root
• Prepared soil

How to Plant Ginger:

1. Ginger should not be placed outdoors until daytime temperatures exceed 75 degrees.
2. Soak tubers overnight in water before planting.
3. Fill containers with prepared soil, or loosen the dirt in your garden location.
4. Place ginger in the soil with the buds facing up.
5. Cover with a very thin layer of soil. (Some growers suggest leaving it uncovered).
6. Water lightly until the plant becomes established.

Harvesting/Pruning Ginger

Ginger requires very little maintenance. Here’s what you need to do.

What You Will Need:

• Garden clippers or scissors
• Small garden trowel

Steps for Care and Maintenance:

1. Younger ginger plants should remain in the shade.
2. Water regularly to maintain moist (not wet) soil.
3. Once the plant matures, clip tender new shoots for cooking at any time.
4. To harvest ginger root, dig up new tubers that appear at the base of the plant.
5. Move plants indoors when outdoor temperatures dip below 50 degrees.
6. Ginger is dormant during the winter months. Allow the plant to dry during this time.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Roots reach their optimum flavor at 265 days.
• To store ginger, wash (don’t peel) tubers before placing them in a bag and freezing them. Remove ginger from the freezer and use a vegetable peeler to pare off portions as you need them.
• Plants will mature in about ten months, reaching heights of 2″-4″.

Often when we think of dill, the first thing that comes to mind is pickles. However, its fresh taste makes it perfect for a variety of dishes including fish, soups and salads. Many herb gardeners include dill in their gardens both for its beauty and unique taste. With the right steps, dill is quite easy to grow, here’s what you need to know.

Before You Plant

Find a Suitable Place:

• Dill plants can grow quite large, ranging from 2-3 feet high, so plan accordingly, especially if dill is part of a decorative garden or landscape.
• Dill is an annual herb and will have to be replanted each year. This makes it flexible for planting as you can change your location each year if necessary.
• Dill can be grown almost anywhere. It can tolerate wet or dry areas and rich or poor soil. These plants can even be grown in water using hydroponics!
• An area with adequate drainage and full sun is preferable for the best plant growth.

Prepare the soil:

• Dill with grow in nearly any soil, but certain soil conditions will help yield a healthier, more productive plant.
• The soil should be well-worked and moderately rich. This can be achieved by mixing in rotted compost or organic material.
• The pH level of the soil can be fairly acidic, as low as 5.5 all the way up to 7.5. Soil testing kits are available through your local garden supply or home improvement store.

Planting Dill

What You Will Need:

• Dill seeds
• Prepared soil
• Fertilizer

How to Plant Dill:

1. Dill seeds should be sown after the last frost.
2. Properly prepare the soil before planting.
3. Space rows approximately 12 inches apart.
4. Scatter the seeds along the ground and cover lightly with a small layer of soil. Be cautious not to place the seeds too deep, about 1/4 inch should be sufficient.
5. Water thoroughly immediately after planting and keep moist until plants begin to sprout.
6. Once seedlings have developed, thin plants to 9 inches apart.
7. Fertilizer once or twice during the growing season with an all-purpose fertilizer.
8. During dry spells it will be necessary to water your plants once or twice a week.

Growing/Harvesting Dill

Both the leaves as well as the seeds of the dill plant can be harvested for use. The dark leaves are called dill weed and can be used for seasoning, however, the young, tender leaves often are more flavorful. Harvesting will need to be done often as this plant grows quickly.

What You Will Need:

• Garden clippers or scissors

Steps for Maintenance and Harvesting:

1. Harvest leaves by cutting with scissors once they reach mature size to use with many dishes including cucumber dishes, salads, soups, fish and dips.
2. Leaves can be cut and used fresh or frozen in Ziploc bags for future use.
3. If you wish to harvest seeds (a must for homemade pickles!), leave the plant untrimmed to allow flowers to form.
4. Flower heads will fade into seed pods and should be removed once the seed pod turns brown and has died. Remove each head and place on a wire rack to dry. Place a tray or bag underneath to catch any seeds that may fall throughout the drying process. When the heads are completely dry, shake gently to remove any remaining seeds.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Since the leaves of the dill plant are eaten, avoid using any pesticides or sprays. If pests become a problem, try an organic treatment. Be sure to check the label carefully.
• Chewing a few dill seeds can help to eliminate bad breath
• Dill can be used for helping relieve colic in children.
• Mix 1-2 teaspoons of dried seed with boiling water to make dill tea. It’s not only tasty, but helps control flatulence as well.
• Place a few leaves in a jar of vinegar to create dill vinegar.

Cucumbers are exceptionally easy to grow. These prolific vines will reward even the mildest efforts with a bountiful harvest. Even gardeners without much space will find that cucumbers will thrive on fences and trellises, making them very accessible for almost anyone.

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Cucumber:

• There is a large variety of cucumber plants to choose from, each with its own distinct characteristics.
• Regular cucumbers are long, green, and firm. They are often used in salads or eaten raw.
• Pickling cucumbers mature in the short and stubby phase. Otherwise they resemble regular cucumbers.
• English cucumbers are long, thin, and typically have smaller, less prominent seeds. They are commonly used for vegetable trays and served raw as the skin is not as tough and can be left on.

Find a Suitable Place:

• Cucumbers prefer a lot of sunlight and warm temperatures.
• The cucumber vine will spread quite a bit (up to 6 feet), so if you do not have much room in the garden it’s a good idea to grow them along a fence or trellis. Cucumbers can even be grown in pots when their vines are supported.

Prepare the Soil:

• Before planting, turn compost into the top six inches of the soil. Well-rotted manure is ideal for meeting the needs of cucumbers.
• Soil should be well-drained. Amend clay soils with sand or loam to provide the proper drainage.
• Cucumbers are often planted in raised beds or on hills to allow for better drainage. This process also keeps the soil warmer which is preferable to cucumber plants.

Planting/Growing Cucumbers

What You Will Need:

• Cucumber seeds or seedlings
• Prepared soil
• Peat pots (for transplanting)

How to Plant Cucumbers:

1. To increase the length of your growing season, start seeds indoors about six weeks before the last frost for your area. Use biodegradable peat pots that you can set directly into the garden so you won’t have to disturb their sensitive roots.
2. Sow seeds or plant seedlings directly into the garden after danger of last frost. Follow the suggested spacing on the package for the variety you are planting.
3. Once seedlings have two leaves each, thin them to the one or two strongest plants per hill.

Growing/Pruning Cucumbers

With just a bit of maintenance, you’ll have a bounty of cucumbers in no time!

What You Will Need:

• Water
• Clippers
• Mulch

Steps for Care and Maintenance:

1. Water plants weekly. The cucumber fruit is composed of quite a bit of moisture and needs ample water supply to properly grow.
2. Keep beds well weeded. Weeds compete with the plants for valuable nutrition.
3. Applying mulch around the plants will help keep weeds at a minimum while helping to maintain moisture levels.
4. Pick cucumbers as soon as they reach a mature size for the specific variety.
5. It is best to remove the cucumbers by either cutting them off or twisting and pulling to remove them from the plant.
6. The more often you pick cucumbers, the more your plant will produce.

Additional Tips and Advice

• If you wish to “train” your cucumbers to a fence, trellis, or even to a particular portion of your yard or garden, tend to the plant daily. Cucumbers set down secondary roots as they grow and the plant will wilt when these roots are disturbed. If you need to move a vine, do so carefully and water the plant afterwards, especially if the ground is dry.
• Avoid wetting the leaves when possible. Water the roots of the plant instead.
• Cucumber plants have both male and female flowers, with the female flowers producing. To increase production, pollinate the flowers by using a cotton swab to transfer pollen from the male flower to the female flower.
• If cucumbers wreak havoc on your digestive system, try the Burpless variety.

Herbs offer a major source for seasoning of foods as well as medicinal properties as well. While the growing conditions are similar each herb has its own special requirements that are described in further detail on individual pages. Learn more about growing herbs and learning the differences among them.

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Herbs:

There are several types of herbs available:

• Perennial herbs continue to grow year after year. Some herbs such as rosemary can produce quality leaves for up to 20 years while others have a much shorter lifespan of quality leaves. Some common perennials are catnip, chives, sweet fennel, lavender, lemon balm, sweet marjoram, oregano, mint and sage.
• Biennial herbs grow for two years, producing flowers during the second year of growth. Common biennial herbs are caraway and parsley (although parsley is often planted as an annual because of its weak second year).
• Annual herbs only produce for one year and need to be replanted each spring. Annuals include anise, basil, chervil, coriander, dill, and summer savory.
• Woody perennials do not die to the ground each winter and are typically shrubs or bushes. Rosemary, thyme, winter savory, sage, sweet bay and lemon verbena are woody perennials.

Another factor in choosing which herbs to plant is where you will be planting. Hardy herbs are more set for outdoor plantings and can often withstand the cold winters with little or no protection. These hardy herbs include lavender, mint, lemon balm, angelica and sweet fennel. More tender herbs are best suited for container planting. Basil, bay, chervil, chives, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon and thyme all grow very well in container settings.

Find a Suitable Place:

Most herbs are easy to grow, but you need to find a suitable place for them to prosper. Look for an area that:

• Is mostly sunny. While some herbs may still grow in partial shade, for most, their flavor will not be as intense.
• Is free of weeds.
• Has good drainage. Most herbs can tolerate a lack of water more than they can being water-logged. If the area is not well-drained, you will need to modify it by making raised beds or installing an underground drainage tiles.

Prepare the Soil:

• Typically, any good soil is adequate for growing herb plants. Avoid using fertilizer, it creates lots of foliage, but it often lacks flavor.
• Adding adequate amounts of compost provides a richness to the soil that allows for maximum growth.
• The addition of peat moss or compost (several bushels for each 100 square feet) helps the soil retain moisture.
• Generally, a pH level of 6.5 to 7.0 works well for herbs.

Planting Herbs

What You Will Need:

• Herb seeds or plants
• Prepared soil
• Garden hoe
• Garden spade
• Garden rake
• Organic matter

Steps for Planting:

1. Begin by working the soil until loose at least 12-18 inches deep.
2. Mix in organic matter and combine well.
3. Using the garden rake, rake the area to level.
4. Plant seeds according to specific instructions being careful not to sow them too deep, usually twice as deep as their diameter. As a rule of thumb, the smaller the seed, the closer they should be planted to the surface.
5. Most herbs can be started indoors during the winter months and transplanted in the spring. The exceptions to this are dill, coriander, fennel and anise because they do not transfer well.

Multiply Plants with Cutting/Division/Layering

New herb plants can be grown from established plants using a variety of methods:

Cuttings:

• Cuttings involve removing a small portion of an established plant and using it to grow additional plants. It works well with herbs such as sage, lemon balm, rosemary and lavender.
• Select a well-established plant in late spring or early summer to take a cutting from.
• Carefully cut off a 3-5 inch piece of a tip growth, clipping just below a node. Avoid woody stems and soft shoots as they take longer to develop roots.
• Dip the end of the cutting in rooting powder available at most garden supply stores.
• Place the end of the cutting into a rich soil and firmly secure it in by pressing the soil in place.
• Allow several weeks for the roots to develop.
• It is best to keep new plants indoors over the winter and plant them outdoors in the spring.

Division:

• Division involves separating established plants in the early spring before growth has begun, and replanting so each section can develop further. This method works well with herbs such as chives, mints and French tarragon.
• Begin by digging up the established plant.
• Carefully divide the plant into sections by cutting or breaking up the roots.
• Replant each divided section spaced 12-18 inches apart.
• Keep the soil moist until the new plants are thriving.

Layering:

• Layering is the simplest way to increase the number of plants because you leave the new plant connected to the parent plant until it is established. This method works well with a variety of herbs including rosemary, thyme, winter savory, sage, bay and lemon balm.
• Begin by selecting a long branch that is low to the ground.
• Place the branch close to the soil and bend the last 6-8 inches up to a vertical position. The branch should make a “V” shape.
• Carefully scrape the bottom of the stem and insert it into the ground.
• Support the buried branch using a small stake a wire.
• Keep the plant moist while the roots are growing.
• Layering is best completed from spring to late summer, allowing the plant to remain until the following spring.
• The following spring, cut the new plant free from the parent plant and transplant (if necessary) to the desired location.

Harvesting Herbs

Harvesting your herbs is the best reward for all of your efforts. Learning when and how to harvest each herb takes experience, but there are some basic rules that can be applied to all herbs. Here is an overview of the three main types of harvesting.

Harvesting Leaves:

• The best time to harvest leaves is early in the morning as soon as the dew has dried. This is when the oils in the plant are the strongest.
• Stems are best cut when the flowers are just beginning to bloom.
• If harvesting a large amount of leaves, place them in a container such as an open weave basket that allows for plenty of air circulation. Avoid boxes or plastic bags that can cause early deterioration of the leaves.
• Only pick as many leaves as you are able to process for storage.
• Perennial plants can typically be cut down to about half their original size. Annuals can be trimmed down to a few inches or removed completely at the end of the growing season.
• Rinse all herbs in cold water and pat dry with a towel.
• Allow herbs to dry for 3-4 days or freeze them. If you opt to freeze them, begin by blanching the leaves in boiling water for no more than 50 seconds and immediately transfer them to ice water. Pat dry with a towel to remove water and arrange them in a single layer on a flat pan for the initial freezing.
• Regardless of your method, herbs that have been processed should be stored in air-tight containers.

Harvesting Seeds:

• Dill, fennel, caraway and anise all have seeds that can be processed at home.
• Begin by removing the seeds from the top of the plant when it begins to yellow in color.
• Allow the seed heads to dry for 5-6 days in a dry, cool, dark place.
• Gently shake the seeds loose and allow them to dry an additional 7 days. Stir the seeds frequently as they are drying for the best results.
• When the seeds are completely dry, store them in an air-tight container.

Harvesting Roots:

• Roots are harvested with angelica and lovey.
• Remove the roots in late fall or early spring and wash thoroughly.
• Slice or split the roots to create a thin layer evenly distributed on a sheet of screen.
• Allow the root pieces to partially dry, turning several times each week.
• Complete the drying process by placing them in a warm oven (approx. 125 degrees).
• The entire process can take 6-8 weeks. Roots have achieved the desired level of dryness if they snap when you bend them.
• Store in an air-tight container.

Whether you’re looking for a topping for your favorite savory dish or just want to try a new herb, chives are a top choice for any gardener. A member of the onion family, this perennial herb is surprisingly simple to grow. Once the plants are established, you’ll have chives forever!

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type of Chives:

• Two types of chives are available, depending on your taste. The most common type is the onion chive which has an onion flavor.
• A second variety, the Chinese Chive, has a hint of garlic flavor to it.

Find a Suitable Place:

• Chives can be grown almost anywhere. They thrive in both window boxes, indoor and out, as well as in gardens.
• Chive plants produce beautiful flowers which makes them a perfect addition to landscaping.
• An area with full sun is best, but a significant amount of shade will also be tolerated by this hardy plant.
• An area that provides good drainage will produce the best quality chive plants.

Prepare the soil:

• Before planting, loosen the soil very well and mix in organic matter or rotted compost. This provides the rich soil that promotes growth.
• Bonemeal can be added to the soil (about 1-2 cups per square yard) to create the optimum soil conditions.
• Chives prefer the acidity level of the soil to be around 6.0 – 7.0 pH. There are soil testing kits available at most gardening or home supply stores, or you can have your soil tested by a professional to find out if any adjustments are necessary.
• The above soil methods are optimal, but not necessarily required as chives will grow in almost any average, well-drained soil. However, if the soil is prepared as above, no future feeding will be required.

Planting Chives

What You Will Need:

• Chive seeds or seedlings
• Prepared soil
• Fertilizer (optional)

Steps for Planting Chives:

1. Chives seeds can be started indoors (six weeks before spring) and then transplanted, or seeds can be sown directly into the soil at the beginning of spring.
2. Properly prepare the soil before planting.
3. Following the packet directions, sow the seeds onto moist soil.
4. If planting bulbs, it’s best to plant them in bunches – about 5 bulbs to a bunch. Space the plants about four inches apart.
5. Fertilizer is often unnecessary; unless soil conditions are poor and no additions were made to the soil prior to planting.
6. Over time the bulb part of the chives will grow and expand into a clump of bulbs. New plants can be propagated from this clump of bulbs using division. Every few years, dig up the root bulbs and separate into individual bulbs. Replant each individual bulb so the tip is level with the soil, about 2-3 inches apart. Each bulb will grow into a new plant.

Growing/Harvesting Chives

Chives continue to grow continuously all season long. They will grow year-round if planted indoors. To get the most from your plant, follow these steps.

What You Will Need:

• Garden clippers or scissors

Steps for Maintenance and Harvesting:

1. As long as weeds are kept under control, and they are watered when the weather is very dry, chives will continue to grow.
2. As soon as the leaves have reached several inches in height, you can start removing the needed portions.
3. Begin by removing the outer-edge leaves and working inward. Cut the leaves with scissors, leaving 1-2 inches above the ground.
4. Once flowers appear, purple pom pom flowers on onion chives or white flowers on garlic chives, cut the stems back.
5. To promote new growth, cut back whenever the height exceeds six inches.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Since the leaves of the chives are eaten, avoid using any pesticides or sprays. If pests become a problem, try an organic treatment. Be sure to check the label carefully.
• Chives are high in vitamin C.
• Chive flowers are edible and make beautiful additions to salads.
• When growing chives in containers, fertilize once a month and water whenever the compost begins to dry out.
• It is best to divide chive bulbs in either March or October.
• Avoid planting chives near onions as it increases the chances of a common pest, the onion fly, attacking your plants.
• Most chives will keep their leave through the winter. However, if the winter is harsh and the leaves die, do not worry – they’ll return with new growth in the spring.