Pumpkins are favorites of gardeners all over the world — literally!  You’ll find them growing on every continent exceptAntarctica, their bright orange exteriors, an unmistakable sign of fall.  From tiny miniatures to the giants of the field, there’s nothing more satisfying than harvesting your own crop of pumpkins!  Here’s how you can bring a splash of color to your garden this fall.  

Before You Plant 

Choose the Right Type: 

• Pumpkin pie types (Cucurbita Moshata, which also includes other squash varieties) are smaller and sweeter than their cousins, the jack-o-lanterns.  These are great for cooking but slightly more difficult to carve due to their small size and thick flesh.
• Carving pumpkins (Cucurbita Pepo) are the so-called jack-o-lanterns of the pumpkin patch.  You can choose seeds that result in perfectly even, round pumpkins or opt instead for a variety that produces an interesting variety of ovals, spheres, knobby textures, and plenty of other fodder for creative carving.
• Giant pumpkins (Cucurbita Maxima) are the variety from which those show-stopping prize winners are grown.  Carefully tended, these pumpkins regularly grow to 600 pounds or more, with the world record nearing 1500 pounds for a single one of these monsters. 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• The traditional pumpkin patch takes up quite a bit of space, so gardeners with less room to grow will be happy to know that some varieties of pumpkins can even be grown in containers!  Consult the seed packet to determine how much space you’ll need in the garden, as this varies quite a bit from one variety to the next. 
• Pumpkins require moist soil.  Standing water will quickly rot the plant or the pumpkin itself, so proper drainage is just as important as good moisture.
• These fast-growing, hungry vines need a steady flow of nutrients.  Start with rich, organic soil and be prepared to fertilize frequently.
• Pumpkins thrive in full sunlight, so for the best possible crop, pick a sunny location for your pumpkin patch.
• Ideally, do not plant pumpkins where they were planted the year before.  If you must use the same spot, use extra care when fertilizing.  They can really sap the soil of nutrients, leaving little for the next year’s crop. 

Prepare the Soil: 

• It is beneficial to begin the soil amendment process well before planting time.  If that’s not possible, make sure that any compost or manure that you add to your soil has had time to properly decompose.  Immature compost can harm or kill your plant.
• After adding organic materials (compost, manure, peat, etc), turn the ground over several times so that it mixes in well. 
• If your soil is sandy, add topsoil.  Your site needs to be able to retain moisture for your pumpkins to grow well.  For heavy clay soil, you may need to add some sand.
• Before planting, apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer.
• Keep the area free from weeds, which compete for nutrients.
• Most pumpkin growers plant pumpkins on small mounds, or hills.  This protects the tender young vines from an excess of water from heavy spring or torrential summer rains, and also allows for better heating of the soil. 

Planting/Growing 

What You Will Need:  

• Pumpkin seeds
• Small shovel
• Prepared soil
• High-nitrogen liquid fertilizer 

Steps for Planting Pumpkins: 

1. The precise planting time will vary for your area, but it can easily be found on the seed pack.  Pumpkin maturity time depends on the variety of pumpkin and your climate conditions.  Most range from 90-160 days.
2. In general, you’ll want to sow 3-5 seeds per mound.  Follow the directions on your seed pack for your specific variety of pumpkin.  Adhere to the directions for the spacing between mounds.  It may look like a lot of empty space, but voracious pumpkins can grow at an astounding rate of 6” per day or more and that space will soon be lost in a tangle of vines and leaves.
3. Cover with the recommended amount of dirt and pat the mound firmly.
4. Water and fertilize the newly planted seeds.
5. After 2-3 days, water again if there has not been rain.  The object is to keep the soil moist without drowning the seeds.
6. When pumpkins sprout, thin to the one or two healthiest seedlings.  The stronger seedlings will be taller, thicker, and will have more leaves than their counterparts.
7. Water pumpkin plants in the morning and at the base of the plant.  Darkness and moisture on the leaves may lead to mildew.
8. Fertilize every two weeks, following the directions on the fertilizer.
9. When pumpkins are bright orange (assuming they are an orange variety) they are ready to pick.  Cut the stem carefully, and never pick pumpkins up by the stem, as it may not be able to support the weight of the pumpkin. 

How to Grow Giant Pumpkins: 

1. There are a few good varieties of mammoth pumpkins available, but if you’re going for a world record, the Atlantic Giant has been the only variety to hold the title since 1979.
2. When you prepare the soil, adjust for a pH between 6.5 and 6.8.  Garden centers have pH test kits.  Sulfur lowers pH, while lime raises it.
3. Start seeds indoors to get a head start on the growing season.
4. Protect seedlings from wind and frost.  Build a temporary shelter around the plant and cover with clear plastic sheeting.  Take extra care to keep the soil moist – rain may not be able to reach your plant under protection, and the warmer soil will dry out more quickly. 
5. Hand pollinate the flowers.  Female flowers will have tiny pumpkins attached.  Locate a male flower (sans pumpkin) and gently peel the petals back, touching the center pieces to those of the female flower.
6. If the vine has more than one pumpkin, choose the largest and healthiest and cull the others.
7. Once pumpkins are established, fertilize plants with 20-20-20 as often as directed. 

Growing/Pruning 

These simple steps will help your pumpkin crop along. 

What You Will Need: 

• Pruning shears
• 20-20-20 fertilizer 

Steps for Care and Maintenance: 

1. If your desire is quality, not quantity, remove all but one or two pumpkins from each vine.  This allows the plant to provide optimum nutrients and care to these fruits.
2. To keep your patch from become unruly, use pruning shears to trim each vine at a distance of 10-12’ past the end of the pumpkin.
3. Water regularly at the base of the plant, keeping the soil moist.
4. Fertilize with 20-20-20 as directed on the container.
5. Pick pumpkins when they mature so that the plant can continue produce more fruit. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. If you have a short growing season, you can start pumpkins indoors.  A seed starter kit will come with full instructions explaining how to successfully start your pumpkins.
2. Plant miniature pumpkins in containers if you don’t have much room.  You’ll have to be particularly careful to keep them well fertilized.
3. Pumpkin vines set down secondary roots, so if possible, amend or fertilize the soil under the vines as they grow.
4. Because pumpkins set down roots as they grow, it’s best not to move a wayward vine.  If it ventures into your yard, simply steer the mower around it until the end of the season.
5. Pumpkins don’t have to be orange!  Yellow and even ghostly white varieties are popular and just as easy to grow.

Grapes are quickly becoming a popular fruit to grow in the backyard. Whether you desire the look of decorative bunches or the taste of the sweet, juicy treats, with over 20,000 varieties, there are now grapes that can be grown in nearly every climate. With a little extra care and attention to the growing process, you’ll be rewarded with elegant beauty and a taste that can’t be topped. 

Before You Plant 

Choose the Right Type: 

• There are many varieties of grapes and finding the one that matches your climate, soil and growing conditions is key. This one step can make or break your grape growing success.
• Consider insects that may eat the grapes and when they are most prominent. For example, if you have a large number of wasps in the fall, you will want an early-ripening grape.
• If you are unsure of what varieties will grow in your area, research online or visit a local vineyard and see what types they grow.
• If no one in your area grows grapes, it doesn’t mean that they can’t be grown. Do your research and choose a variety that best fits your situation. 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• This should be an area that both air and soil drain away effectively. Many varieties of grapes are unable to handle the frost, so you want the cool air and water to flow away from your planting area. Sometimes this can be achieved by simply planting the grapes on an elevated area.

• Grapes prefer full sun, so find an area that has little or no shade. 

Prepare the Soil: 

• Grapes need rich soil to grow in. Before you plant, prepare the soil with plenty of organic matter, especially fish fertilizer. Avoid chemical fertilizers as they contain a high level of nitrogen, something that grapes don’t need. Some may choose to mix the organic matter into the soil, or you can lay it on top and allow the worms, soil and insects naturally mix the materials. 

Planting/Growing 

What You Will Need:  

• Grapevine (with roots established)
• Small shovel or spade
• Trellis
• Copper wire or string 

Steps for Planting: 

1. When you have chosen a variety that meets your needs and is able to thrive in your area and you have prepared the soil, you are ready to plant your vine.
2. Fortunately, planting grape vines is not difficult at all. Simply dig a small hole in the ground (try not to damage the structure of the soil any more than necessary) and insert the roots of the vine.
3. Fill the remainder of the hole with the loose soil.
4. Cover with mulch.
5. Grapevines will need a trellis or other support for growth. You will need to train your vine by starting it straight up the trellis. Allow secondary vines to branch out further. It may be necessary to tie the vine to the trellis to start out with.
6. Find out whether the variety of grapes that you are planting is self-pollinating. If it is not, you will need to plant a pollinizer nearby. A pollinizer is a plant that is planted nearby that provides the pollen necessary to produce fruit.
7. After the first month, will need to water your grapevines during droughts only. Grapes do not require frequent waterings. 

Growing/Pruning 

Pruning your grapevines is the most important part of this “art.” Pruning allows you to manage the plant, regulate the size of the crop and adjust the quality of the fruit. 

What You Will Need: 

• Clippers / lopping shears 

Learning When and How to Prune: 

1. The art of pruning is developed over time and is affected mostly by your desired outcome. Here are some pruning times, each with different outcomes:

• Summer Pruning to Increase Fruit Growth: Trim back vines when they have exceeded 2-3 feet of growth. This directs the energy back into the fruit, rather than plant growth, making a sweeter, more productive crop.
• Fall Pruning: These prunings are not recommended and should only be done if you are sure there will be no warm spells that would allow growth before winter. Typically it is best to wait and do a winter pruning.
• Winter/Spring Pruning: Most plants are pruned in late winter to allow for new growth. The key to this is pruning early enough that new growth has not already begun and late enough that no new growth will form before a frost. If this happens, it will lead to freeze damage which is dangerous for your grapevines. It is often best to prune no more than one month before the last frost.
• Lateral shoots (those growing to the side) are not fruitful and should be removed. Only keep these shoots if you need them to grow onto the trellis for support.
• Prune new shoots way back the first few years to encourage growth of the main vine.
• Keep the first 6-12 buds on the cane, these produce the fruit, and trim back the rest unless they are needed for trellis support.
• Prune any brown or brittle buds as they have been winter damaged and need to be removed.
• Prune away enough of the vine to allow plenty of air and sunlight to reach the fruit and vines.

2. Pruning is a detailed process, there are even books devoted to pruning grapevines. Here are some basic rules to get you started.

3. Harvest your grapes when the grape at the bottom of the bunch is sweet. If some of the grapes are not fully ripened, they can be ripened by setting in the sun for a day or two. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. Grapevines make beautiful decorations. Use your trimmings to make wreaths or other decorative pieces. This is best done while the vines are wet and easy to bend. They will stiffen as they dry.
2. Want to make raisins? Remove all stems and place the seedless grapes on a pan or screen in the sun. This will take several days, so watch out for animals and other critters. Move to a safe location, often inside, during the night and any rain.

Few things top the taste of red ripe strawberries in the summertime. It’s easy to grow your own beautiful fruit right in your container garden. Strawberries are perennials, meaning that they continue to grow year after year giving you lots of fruit for your efforts.

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type:

There are three types of strawberries plants available. All of which may work for container planting, depending on your location. June bearing plants produce a large crop of fruit in late spring. The entire crop ripens over a three week time span, usually in June. Everbearing plants produce smaller crops than the June bearing, but produce two crops, one in the spring and one in the fall. Day neutral plants are capable of producing fruit throughout the entire growing season. Virtually every type that can be grown in a garden can be grown outdoors in a container. However, indoor planting can limit the amount of sunlight that the plant receives. Red Alpine is an everbearing variety that can tolerate a good amount of shade making it ideal for indoor growing.

Find a Suitable Place: 

• Strawberries need plenty of sunshine for the best growth. Find a sunny window to place your plant in front of for the best results.
• A minimum of six hours of sunshine a day is needed.
• Rotate plants regularly to ensure all sides get full sun exposure.

Prepare the Soil: 

• Ideally, the soil pH should be 5.3 to 6.5. Most commercial potting soil will be sufficient for this purpose. If you are unsure about the pH level of the soil, your local cooperative extension office can test the soil for you, or you can buy pH test kits from hardware stores.
• For container planting, mix a high quality potting soil with a slow release fertilizer. 

Planting in Strawberry Pots and Containers 

Strawberry pots are specially designed planting containers with pockets up and down the sides of the pot. These pockets are perfect for planting runners, although most gardeners start plants in them from the start. 

What You Will Need:  

• Strawberry plants
• Strawberry pot or container
• PVC Pipe capped on one end
• Slow release fertilizer (optional)
• Fertilizer (high in potassium)
• All purpose potting soil
• Drill
• Small shovel 

Planting in a Strawberry Pot: 

1. Begin by standing the PVC pipe in the pot and cut it down so that the open edge is even with the top of the pot.
2. Use the drill to make small holes (approximately 1/8 inch), spaced one inch apart all the way down alternating sides of the pipe. The finished pipe should have holes on alternating sides (not directly across from each other) so that the water will be evenly distributed.
3. Prior to placing the soil into the pot, you can mix it with a slow release fertilizer. This step is optional but may help keep the plant fed.
4. Fill the pot approximately 1/3 full with soil and insert the pipe so the capped end is at the bottom.
5. Continue to loosely fill the container about ¾ full with soil.
6. Next you will start planting in the side pockets.
7. Prepare the plant by removing damaged roots, trimming long roots down to 4-5” and removing any flowers, runners and dead leaves.
8. Place one strawberry plant in each pocket.
9. Fill in with more soil around the roots as necessary.
10. When all the pockets are planted and there is sufficient soil around the roots, you are ready to plant the top plants.
11. The top of the pot is designed to hold 1-4 plants. Place the plants where you would like them and fill in with the remaining soil.
12. Water thoroughly to moisten the soil. Use a funnel to pour water into the pipe inserted into the center of the pot to allow for even distribution of the water to all of the pocket plants.
13. For the first six weeks, remove all blossoms and runners by pinching them off. This allows the plant to become established before it spends energy producing runners and fruit.
14. Continue to water regularly, even daily, until growing season. After this time, water when the top of the soil is dry.
15. Indoor plants require regular fertilization. If no slow-release fertilizer was added to the potting soil, fertilize plants with a high potassium fertilizer every ten days starting when they begin to bloom and stopping two weeks after harvesting.

Planting in Regular Containers

 What You Will Need:  

• Strawberry plants
• Container (any type will work)
• Slow release fertilizer (optional)
• Fertilizer (high in potassium)
• All purpose potting soil
• Drill/Hammer and nails
• Fiberglass window screen 

Planting in a Regular Pot/Container: 

1. Begin by checking your container for proper drainage. If there are no holes in the bottom, use the drill/hammer and nails to make some.
2. Cover the bottom of the container where you have made holes with the fiberglass window screen. This will keep the soil from exiting the container through the holes.
3. Fill the container about 3/4 full with potting soil. If your container is very deep, fill it a little higher.
4. Prepare the plant by removing damaged roots, trimming long roots down to 4-5” and removing any flowers, runners and dead leaves.
5. Make a small hole in the soil. Place the plant into the hole so that the roots are pointing downward and are slightly fanned out.
6. You will need to carefully set the plants to keep the roots from either rotting or drying out.
7. Place the crown slightly above the soil (so that the midpoint is even with the soil surface). The uppermost roots should be ¼” below the soil.
8. Fill in the around the plant with additional soil.
9. Remove all flowers and runners for the first six weeks. This is a time for the plant to establish itself and all the energy should be used for plant growth and strength.
10. Continue to water regularly, even daily, until growing season. After this time, water when the top of the soil is dry.
11. Indoor plants require regular fertilization. If no slow-release fertilizer was added to the potting soil, fertilize plants with a high potassium fertilizer every ten days starting when they begin to bloom and stopping two weeks after harvesting.

Planting in Hanging Baskets 

Hanging baskets provide a great way to grow strawberries away from the many pests that love to eat them. Simply place 5-6 plants in a basket in the spring and allow them to grow the same as growing in a container. If you’d like to get an awesome strawberry display, follow these steps:

What You Will Need: 

• 24 Strawberry plants
• 16” Wire basket
• High quality potting soil
• Sphagnum moss, coconut fiber or specialty basket liner 

Steps for Planting the Ultimate Hanging Basket: 

1. Begin by lining the basket with either the damp sphagnum moss, coconut fiber or basket liner.
2. Insert 18 of the plants into the liner around the side of the basket. This gives the plant a very full appearance.
3. Once all the plants are in place, fill the basket with potting soil.
4. Plant the remaining 6 plants on the top of the basket.
5. Water thoroughly after the initial planting and continue to keep the soil moist.
6. Hang the basket in an area that receives plenty of full sun.
7. Rotate the basket frequently to allow adequate sun to reach all of the plants.
8. If maintained, fruit will continue to produce for approximately three years. 

Harvesting 

Strawberries require gentle handling and picking to keep their beautiful shape and color. Here’s how to pick your strawberries for a splendid presentation and tasty treats!

 What You Will Need: 

• Shallow bowls 

Steps for Harvesting: 

1. When the berries reach a bright red color, they are ready to be harvested.
2. Carefully look inside the leaves for the reddest strawberries.
3. Remove the strawberry by gently grasping the stem above the berry and pulling with a slight twisting motion. Allow the berry to gently fall into your hand.
4. Continue until you have 3-4 berries in your hand.
5. Gently place the berries in the bowl, being careful not to throw or drop them as this can cause bruising.
6. Continue picking until the bowl is no fuller than five inches deep. Packing the berries too deep causes them to crush from the weight.
7. Remove any berries that are over-ripened, damaged by insects or are defective and dispose of them.
8. Store berries in a cool place. They will keep for approximately 3 days in the refrigerator.
9. Now it’s time to enjoy your berries! Strawberries are easy to freeze and make wonderful desserts and jams. They are also very tasty all on their own or on top of shortcake. So be creative and enjoy! 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. Strawberry plants are subject to fruit rot, root rot and fungus. A local nursery can help you determine which plants will thrive in your area and which viruses you will need to watch out for.
2. Slugs and snails can overtake a strawberry plant. If your container is kept outside for a portion of the day, check your plants regularly for any unwanted visitors.
3. Aphids and spider mites can be controlled with dusting or spraying.
4. Read all packaging for safety information. It’s usually safe to treat most problems up until the fruit is set.

Starting a vineyard is no small task, but is one that can reap big rewards. With careful planning and execution, you can ensure that your vineyard will provide abundant crops for many years.

Before You Plant

Select the Right Site:

There are many factors to consider when choosing the perfect place for your vineyard.

• Climate – Take a close look at the high/low temperatures and frost-free periods for your area. Factors such as wind and altitude are also important to note. These factors help in determining where your vineyard will prosper.
• Sunlight – Grapes require sun to grow well. Find an area that is away from trees and other shade-producing plants.
• Soils – The quality of the soil in the area is another key factor. Consider the fertility, types of soils, drainage and the depth of the soil.
• Water – This includes both the quality as well as water sources. How much water is available from wells, etc. in the area and what irrigation options are available?
• Field Size – How large will your vineyard be? Determine this early on when you decide which grapes you plan to grow and how much room they will require.
• Wineries – Ultimately, you’ll want to produce wine from your grapes. If you are not completing this yourself, how close is the nearest winery?
• Other factors – Agricultural zoning and regulations, sources of power and cost of the land are other considerations that need to be thought out when choosing a place to start your vineyard.

How to Select Grapes:

There are four major types of grapes grown around the world:

1. Vitis Vinifera
2. Vitis Lubrusca,
3. Hybrids of these two
4. Vitis Rotoundifolia.

Research which type will grow best in your location and/or visit local vineyards to see what types of grapes grow well in your area.

Prepare the Soil:

• Remove the top layer of dirt, including all weeds and roots, and discard.
• Till the soil thoroughly to provide loose, workable ground for planting.

Planting Vines

What You Will Need:

• Grapevine (with roots established)
• Small shovel or spade
• Trellis or grape arbor
• Copper wire or string
• Plastic mesh
• Potting soil
• Fertilizer (10-20-10)

How to Plant Grapes:

1. Begin by marking the rows by making 3-4 inch grooves through the loosened soil.
2. Next, place stakes where each grapevine will be planted. Space plants 6-8 feet apart.
3. Dig a hole that is twice the size of the pot that your vines are planted in and slightly deeper.
4. Mix potting soil with the original soil and place a small amount of the mixture into the hole.
5. Water the bottom of the hole as well as the plant in the pot prior to planting.
6. Place the grapevine into the hole and fill in with remaining soil mixture.
7. Water regularly during dry conditions, but do not allow the plants to become water-logged as this can lead to root rot.
8. Fertilize the vines twice each year around the base (at least six inches out), do not allow fertilizer to get too close or it may burn the plant. Water the area to release the fertilizer.
9. Plants will begin to grow in the spring, if planted in the fall. If you are planting in the spring, you will see some growth, but most likely will not have grapes for another year or two.

Year Two:

1. This year you want to begin training the vines where to grow. This is accomplished by tying them to the trellis or posts in the direction they should grow.
2. When fruit begins to grow, add plastic mesh over the plants to prevent birds from eating them.

Pruning/Harvesting Grapes

Pruning your grapevines is the most important part of this ‘art.’ Pruning allows you to manage the plant, regulate the size of the crop and adjust the quality of the fruit.

What You Will Need:

• Clippers / lopping shears

Learning When and How to Prune:

1. The art of pruning is developed over time and is affected mostly by your desired outcome. Here are some pruning times, each with different outcomes:
   • Summer Pruning to Increase Fruit Growth: Trim back vines when they have exceeded 2-3 feet of growth. This directs the energy back into the fruit, rather than plant growth, making a sweeter, more productive crop.
   • Fall Pruning: These prunings are not recommended and should only be done if you are sure there will be no warm spells that would allow growth before winter. Typically it is best to wait and do a winter pruning.
   • Winter/Spring Pruning: Most plants are pruned in late winter to allow for new growth. The key to this is pruning early enough that new growth has not already begun and late enough that no new growth will form before a frost. If this happens, it will lead to freeze damage which is dangerous for your grapevines. It is often best to prune no more than one month before the last frost.
2. Pruning is a detailed process, there are even books devoted to pruning grapevines. Here are some basic rules to get you started.
   • Lateral shoots (those growing to the side) are not fruitful and should be removed. Only keep these shoots if you need them to grow onto the trellis for support.
   • Prune new shoots way back the first few years to encourage growth of the main vine.
   • Keep the first 6-12 buds on the cane, these produce the fruit, and trim back the rest unless they are needed for trellis support.
   • Prune any brown or brittle buds as they have been winter damaged and need to be removed.
   • Prune away enough of the vine to allow plenty of air and sunlight to reach the fruit and vines.
3. Harvest your grapes when the grape at the bottom of the bunch is sweet. If some of the grapes are not fully ripened, they can be ripened by setting in the sun for a day or two.

Blueberries are often called a super food because they contains lots of good for you antioxidants. Fortunately, you do not have to have super powers to grow them, just a little time and patience – and a good sunny area to plant them in.

Choosing a blueberry plant

It is recommended that you start your foray into blueberry growership by buying a plant, not starting from seed. Before choosing your plant, you will have to educate yourself on the four varieties that are available, and which will grow best in your yard. The four varieties of blueberry plants are:

Rabbit Eye: These are the tallest of the blueberry plants, reaching heights of up to 15 feet. These plants will only grow in the warmer areas of the country, zones 7 to 9.

High Bush: Though this plant has the word high in its name, in actuality it only grows to be between 6 and 12 feet tall. Well, okay, on second thought, that is pretty high. These plants will grow in most areas of the United States, zones 4 to 11.

Low Bush: These short plants get to be only one or two feet tall, making them ideal for gardens and flowerbeds and easier for picking. These plants prefer a colder climate, zones 3 to 6.

Mid High: A mixture of the high and low bush, these plants take on some of the characteristics of both, and their height lies right in between that of their two cousins. They will grow anywhere in the country, even up to chilly zone 3.

Getting started

Once you’ve decided to cultivate a blueberry crop, you’ll need to find a site in your yard with a lot of room. That’s because, if you hadn’t noticed by what you just read, these bushes can get pretty big. You will want to be able to plant them at least the distance apart that the plants will grow in height, for example, two or more feet apart for low bush.

It is also beneficial to have at least two plants (plants, not varieties) and a good supply of bees so that the plants can pollinate, or you may not end up with any fruit. (Don’t worry about purchasing bees. Mother nature will usually provide some for you.)

Planting your bushes

Plant your blueberry bushes in an area of your yard that gets a good deal of sun, at least for half of the day. You will also need an area of the garden where there is good, nutrient rich soil and good drainage. Make sure, before you situate your bushes, that the soil is fairly acidic if you want your plant to grow well. (There are products available at your local garden center that you can use to test the ph. You need a ph of about 5.) If you hope to have a good deal of blueberry pies in your future, it may behoove you to mix the soil with a couple bags of peat moss.

The actually planting process is pretty straightforward. Gently remove each plant from its pot by tilting the pot to the side and letting the bush gently fall out. If you need to help it along a little, break up the soil by using your hands (it is recommended that you wear gardening gloves to avoid cutting yourself on the branches.)

Then, dig holes that are at least as deep as the root system of the plants, probably between seven and 10 inches deep. Place the plants in the holes and water them.

*You may want to surround the bases of the plants with mulch to prevent weeds from growing underneath them.

About Fertilizer

Blueberry plants do not require a good deal of fertilizer to thrive, as long as you plant them in good soil to begin with. The fertilization schedule should follow the growth of the blueberries, once when you see the first buds and once when they begin to actually resemble berries. After this, you can fertilize every six weeks if your plants appear to need some TLC. A good fertilizer to use is Miracid, since as mentioned before, the plants due well in fairly acidic soil. Another fertilizer you can use, but which can be a bit more difficult to apply, is sulphates. Never use a nitrate-based fertilizer.

Picking your blueberries

Depending on the type of plant you have, your blueberry plants will begin to produce fruit in the early spring or early summer. It will be very easy to tell when it is time. The blossoms will fall off and blueberries will show up in their place. Be sure that the berries have fully formed before you pick them or they may have a sour taste to them. You should pick the berries about once a week.

Note: Depending on the age of your plant when you put it in the ground, it may not produce berries in the first year or the subsequent year. It has to grow and mature first. Proper pruning (cutting off any branches that start to jut out) can ensure that it will be ready when the time comes.

Preventing pests

Blueberry plants are not known to be especially susceptible to insects. However, if you do notice a pest problem on your plants, it is best to ask a professional at your local garden center to recommend the pesticide you should use, which will depend on your plant type and climate. If your garden is in a yard that is frequented by children or pets, a natural solution is probably the way to go.

Besides insects, another pest you may have to deal with in regards to your blueberry plants is birds, who will be very happy to partake in your blueberry crop for lunch. The best way to keep the feathered friends from snacking is to cover your plants with a net, which you can find at your local home improvement store. Be sure to stake the net down if it has a tendency to fly off.

Enjoying the fruits of your labor

Once your blueberries are ripe for eating, sit down and enjoy them. Just remember, that blue color can stain, so have the Tide Pen handy.