Tea is a popular beverage both for enjoyment as well as its medicinal properties. Green, white, oolong and black teas are all harvested from the same tea shrub, Camellia sinesis, which is very easy to grow. Here’s how to make the most out of your tea shrub and reap the benefits with the phenomenal taste of fresh tea. 

Preparing to Plant 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• Tea shrubs grow well up to the zone 8 hardiness zone and prefer humid climates.
• Seedlings and young plants should be planted in the shade and then transferred to an area with full sun when they mature.
• If you don’t have an area outside, or if the temperature is too cold, tea shrubs can also be grown as indoor plants.
• The mature tea shrub can reach heights of 6-10 feet if left untrimmed. 

Preparing the Soil: 

• Camilla sinensis prefer acidic, sandy soil that is well drained.  If you have less than ideal planting conditions amend the soil by adding in missing components.  If you need to adjust the pH, there are fertilizers available for nearly any soil situation.
• If you are planting your tea in a container, mix sphagnum moss in with the potting soil. 

Planting 

What You Will Need: 

• Mulch
• Fertilizer
• Garden trowel
• Small shovel
• Tea shrub, cuttings or seeds
• Water
• Plenty of patience 

How to Plant: 

1. Once you have found the best location for your shrub and prepared the soil, you are ready to plant.
2. You can start your tea shrub from seeds, but many find it easier to use cuttings or buy a shrub from a nursery.
3. Begin by digging the hole in the sandy soil. The size of the hole needed will vary depending on the size of the shrub you are planting. You will want the hole to be deep enough to completely submerge the roots along with a couple inches of the stem/trunk.
4. Add a small amount of water to the hole.
5. Remove the shrub from its current container and prepare the roots by loosening tight clumps. Your goal is to break up the dirt and loosen the roots without breaking them off.
6. Place the roots into the hole and cover with soil.
7. Cover the ground with 2-4 inches of mulch to help retain moisture and reduce weeds.
8. Water your plant frequently to keep the soil moist, especially on warm days. Try to moisten the soil, but avoid soaking the area.
9. Apply fertilizer to the area directly around the shrub periodically to help with growth. Camilla shrubs are not heavy feeders, so using an acidic fertilizer at half-strength applied just once every 2-3 weeks will most likely be sufficient.
10. Once your tea shrub is planted, it just needs loving care, plenty of patience and time to mature. Shrubs should have 3 years to grow before you begin harvesting the leaves. 

Harvesting 

When your tree is established, you will want to start harvesting the leaves. The various stages of the leaves along with special processing methods that allow for different levels of fermentation produce the varieties of tea. 

Green Tea (No fermentation of leaves) 

• For green tea, pluck the youngest leaves and buds, this typically consists of the terminal 3 leaves and the terminal bud.
• Allow the leaves to dry, away from direct sunlight, for several hours.
• Next you will want to either steam or pan heat your green tea leaves.
• To steam the leaves, use the same process as steaming vegetables and steam for about 1 minute.
• To pan heat the leaves, place the leaves in a pan and heat to about 500° F for 15 minutes. Keep the pan in constant motion to avoid burning.
• To dry the leaves, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 250° F oven (no hotter than this) for 10-20 minutes.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

Oolong Tea (Leaves are partly fermented) 

• For oolong tea, pluck the youngest leaves and buds, this typically consists of the terminal 3 leaves and the terminal bud.
• Place the leaves on a tray or towel and allow them to wilt under the sun for about 45 minutes.
• Move the leaves out of the sun and heat and allow them to sit for a few hours at room temperature.
• Mix the leaves around every hour while they are sitting.
• As the leaves begin to dry, you will notice the edges beginning to turn red in color.
• To dry the leaves, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 250° F oven (no hotter than this) for 10-20 minutes.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

Black Tea (Leaves are fully fermented) 

• For black tea, pluck the youngest leaves and buds, this typically consists of the terminal 3 leaves and the terminal bud.
• Place the leaves between your hands and use a rubbing motion to crush the leaves until they begin to darken and turn red in color.
• Place the leaves on a tray and leave them set in a cool place for a couple of days.
• To dry the leaves, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 250° F oven (no hotter than this) for 10-20 minutes.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

White Tea (No fermentation of leaves) 

• White tea is only harvested in the spring when the very newest of leaves are available.
• Pluck the newest leaves and buds, just as they are emerging on the plant, these will still have the white fuzz on them and the buds will still be closed. The leaves will have a silver look.
• Spread the leaves out on a pan and allow them to wither and dry.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

Additional Tips and Ideas 

1. Add herbs, dried fruits or edible flowers to your tea before steeping for an endless variety of flavors.
2. Tea plants produce fragrant flowers that can be very attractive to insects, especially moths.
3. White tea has three times more antioxidants than green or black tea.

As Asian cuisine grows in popularity, so does the herb lemongrass. The lemon-smelling leaves of this plant provide a citrus taste without the bite from actual lemon juice. If you’re interested in growing it yourself, it can easily be started from the herb you buy from your local supermarket. In just a short time you’ll have your own supply of this fragrant herb to add to your cooking delight.

Before You Plant

Choosing a Plant: 

• The easiest way to obtain starter plants is at your local grocery store or Asian market.
• When selecting plants, choose the freshest available with long green leaves and plump bulbs on the end. Avoid any bunches that look dried out or wilted.
• Check the bases for any vestiges of roots as these are necessary for starting a plant.

Find a Suitable Place:

• An area with full sun is important for lemongrass to grow well. An area that is protected from winds is even better.
• The plants will spread as they grows, so allow some additional space surrounding the planting area.

 Prepare the Soil:

• The soil should be rich and well-draining, amend heavy soil with plenty of compost.

Planting/Growing/Harvesting

What You Will Need:

• Lemongrass plants
• Small shovel
• Organic fertilizer (optional)
• Water

Steps for Planting:

1. If your plants do not have roots, trim off the top couple of inches of leaves and remove any outer leaves that have expired. Place the bulb in a glass of water, in a sunny place, for a couple of days to allow roots to form.
2. When roots have grown 1-2 inches, you can plant the bulbs into your garden.
3. It is best to plant lemongrass in the spring after the last frost and the ground has started to warm.
4. Place the bulb into the soil only up to the widest part of the bulb.
5. Pat the soil to firm it around the bulb.
6. Water thoroughly after planting.
7. Fertilization is usually not necessary, but if you choose to fertilize, use an organic fertilizer since you will be eating the plant.
8. Continue to water regularly. Ideally, the soil should be kept moist but not wet.
9. Remove any weeds in the area.

Steps for Harvesting:

1. As your lemongrass grows it will produce more stalks all season long.
2. When you are ready to use some, simply remove a stalk, roots and all.
3. Lemongrass dries out quickly, so harvest when you are ready to use or freeze it.
4. Clean away any dirt and it’s ready to use. Depending on your recipe, nearly all parts of the plant can be used.

Additional Tips and Advice

1. Be sure to divide the bulb from time to time to keep the plant from strangling itself.
2. Lemongrass can easily be grown in containers for fresh herbs year-round.
3. Lemongrass can be grown as a perennial in milder climates. When the first frost comes, cut off the dead leaves, but be careful not to cut too much.

Alfalfa sprouts are nutritious, have a variety of uses, and couldn’t be simpler to grow. With a growth time of just a couple of days, you can always have fresh sprouts available for use on salads, sandwiches and many other delightful treats.

What You Will Need:

• Quart sized glass jar (the kind used for canning)
• Alfalfa seeds
• Water
• Screen, woven material or old pantyhose
• Rubber band, string, or jar lid (just the ring part)

How to Grow Alfalfa Sprouts:

1. It’s often best to start small and continue to grow sprouts. They quickly grow and you don’t want to have too many when you first start eating them.
2. Begin by placing 2-3 tablespoons of seeds on a plate and carefully inspect them for any damaged, withered or otherwise unhealthy seeds. Discard any bad seeds and place the rest into the glass jar.
3. Prepare the top of the jar by covering it with the woven fabric, screen, or hose. Keep the cover secure with a rubber band, string or lid ring.
4. Cover the seeds with water. Fill the jar with water to a height of 1-2 inches above the seeds.
5. Set the jar on the counter and allow the seeds to soak overnight.
6. After the seeds have soaked overnight, remove the water by simply turning the jar over and allowing the water to drain through the cloth. Ensure that all the water is out or it may cause the seeds to rot. Do not remove the seeds from the container.
7. Roll the container around to distribute the seeds all around the outside and let it remain on its side.
8. The sprouts will grow best in slightly warmer temperatures, but do not need sunlight at this point.
9. Rinse the seeds and jar everyday with cool water, twice a day if the temperatures are warmer. This step is important to remove any disease organisms or toxins that may accumulate in the jar while it sets. If a funky smell develops in the jar, you need to rinse it more often.
10. Continue rinsing for 4-5 days until the sprouts are ready to harvest. Typically the sprouts will be between 1-2 inches in length when they are ready to be harvested.
11. Simply give them a good rinse and shake away any excess water.
12. Spread the sprouts out on a tray or plate and place them in the sun for a short while, only 15 minutes or so. This allows the leaves to turn greener and important enzymes to become activated.
13. They’re ready to use immediately on salads, sandwiches, soups, dips – whatever you please!
14. Start a new jar every few days and it’ll be ready when the first one is all consumed.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Not all water is fit to drink, much less grow sprouts. Ensure that you use quality water to keep your sprouts as healthy and nutritional as possible.
• Another method is to place the seeds on a clean tray from a red clay pot. Set the tray in a dish with water. The clay tray will gradually soak up the water offering the right amount of moisture for the seeds to sprout.
• If you want to remove the brown seed coats, simply place the sprouts in a bowl of water, swish them around a little. The seed coats will float to the top where you can easily remove them.
• To keep your sprouts fresh, store them in the refrigerator.

If you’re planning to grow herbs, chances are oregano is going to be included in your selection. Good choice! Oregano is easy to grow and is a perennial herb, meaning that it continues to grow year after year. Whether you’re planting in your garden or as a houseplant, oregano is sure to be a winner.

Before You Plant Oregano

Find a Suitable Place:

• Oregano is a perennial, it typically produces quality leaves for 2-4 years, so choose an appropriate spot where it can stay.
• Marked by its Mediterranean origin, oregano likes to grow in full sun.

Prepare the soil:

• Light chalky soil is best for this herb.
• Oregano also requires well-drained soil.
• Fortunately, very little preparation is needed as oregano typically grows just fine in average soil.

Planting/Growing Oregano

What You Will Need:

• Oregano seeds
• Mulch
• Fertilizer (only for container plants)
• Garden spade
• Stick or other row marker

How to Plant Oregano:

1. Oregano seeds can be sown directly into the soil in the beginning of spring, usually around April.
2. Work the dirt with the garden spade until loose and form the rows marked with a labeled stick.
3. Plant the seeds 3/4 inch deep and 6 inches apart. Rows should be spaced 18 inches apart.
4. Cover with removed soil and pat gently to cover.
5. Water until soil is moist and cover the area with mulch to retain moisture and prevent weeds.
6. Seeds will sprout in approximately 2 weeks.
7. When seeds have sprouted, thin plants to 12 inches apart.
8. Seeds can also be started in containers around March and transplanted 12 inches apart.
9. Keep the soil moist for the first few months, after which the plant will be able to tolerate dry conditions, including drought.
10. Avoid adding fertilizer to garden plants to keep the flavor strong.
11. If planting oregano in a container, follow the same planting procedures to start. Transplant the seedlings to a 12 inch pot at the end of spring, usually around May.
12. Water container only when dry and feed twice during the growing season.
13. Oregano plants can grow a bit out of control, so cut back straying stems regularly to keep the plant at the optimum size.
14. At the end of the season, cut back the leaves and cover the area with mulch to protect the roots from the cold winter.

Harvesting Oregano

What You Will Need:

• Garden clippers or scissors

Steps for Care and Maintenance:

1. As soon as the plant is several inches tall and has developed a couple dozen leaves, it is okay to begin harvesting.
2. Pick the young leaves as they have the most flavor.
3. It is best to harvest early in the morning while the oils are the strongest.
4. Leaves are best harvested right before flowers form, usually in July. If seeds have already developed, the leaves will most likely have developed a bitter taste.
5. To extend the harvesting season, trim off the flowers as soon as they begin to develop. This stops the production of seeds allowing harvesting to take place into November.
6. Allow the plant to remain as the leaves provide necessary protection from frost and the cold winter. New plants will emerge in the spring.
7. Once the herb is rinsed with cold water, it’s ready to use, just chop for cooking or store whole leaves in Ziploc bags in the freezer or refrigerator.
8. Some feel oregano is best used dried. Harvest the leaves on a dry day and allow keep in a cool dark place until they are thoroughly dried out. Store in an airtight container. Dried oregano will last for 3-4 months.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Since the leaves of the oregano are eaten, avoid using any pesticides or sprays. If pests become a problem, try an organic treatment. Be sure to check the label carefully.
• Oregano is a must-have for Italian cooking. You simply can’t have pizza or spaghetti sauce without it!
• After 2-4 years, the plant starts to get woody and will need to be replaced.
• Oregano is a great companion plant for broccoli and beans. It deters the pests that tend to attack these vegetables.

Stevia (or stevia rebaudiana) is an herb that has been the focus of much unjustified controversy and for a while was under strict scrutiny by the FDA. The plant originated in Paraguay and is sometimes known as “Sweet Herb of Paraguay.” Concentrated Stevia powder is sold in many natural food stores as a dietary supplement, but it is know for the sweetness in lieu of high calorie sugar, although due to restrictions, it cannot currently be sold as a “natural sweetener,” even though that’s what it is often used for. Home-grown Stevia lacks the potency of the refined powder sold in stores, which has a stevioside content (the stuff that makes Stevia sweet) of about 81 to 91 percent. The stevioside content in a home grown Stevia leaf is about 12 percent. Still home grown Stevia leaves can act as a nice supplement to the Stevia powder that you already use.

Before you Plant

Choose the Right Type of Stevia:

• Stevia grows fairly quickly in moderate temperatures and can be grown in most climates zone so long as the temperature stays above 40 degrees for the length of the growing season. Of course, depending upon your zone, the length of your Stevia growing season may vary.
• Young Stevia plants are sensitive to cold and frost, and should only be planted outdoors after the danger of the last frost has passed, and the soil has warmed up to 50 or 60 degrees Fahrenheit. In the coldest zones (Zones 1 and 2) this means you might not be planting until mid to late June. In the warmest zones (Zones 10 and 11) you may be planting as early as January or February.
• In the colder zones, Stevia should be treated as an annual, and will need to be replanted every year. In the warmer climates where the winters are not harsh, Stevia can be treated as a perennial and will likely survive for two or three harvests.
• Stevia also does well in a container and can be grown indoors, so long as you have sufficient lighting.
• It maybe difficult to find Stevia plants for transplanting, and you may have to do a bit of digging to find someone who sells them. Check with your local natural foods stores. There are also several mail-order businesses that will ship the Stevia plants to you. Even then, the potency of the Stevia leaves may vary from one distributer to another, so it is best to ask around to find one who is reputable and with whom others have had good experiences.

Find a Suitable Place

• Stevia prefers sunlight, but will do fine with light shade, especially if you’re planting in one of the warmer climates where temperatures may climb over 100 degrees in the summer.
• The garden patch where you intend to plant the Stevia should be well-drained and not subject to standing water. Consider planting at the top of a gentle slope. Do not choose a spot that is at the bottom of a hill or slope, where water would tend to pond.
• Stevia does best when it’s planted by itself, not with other herbs or flowers.
• If planting Stevia in a container garden, make sure it is in a spot that gets adequate sunlight, and that is protected from frost and cold.

Prepare the Soil:

• Stevia thrives well in rich, loamy soil; the soil should have plenty of compost.
• In their natural environment, Stevia is found in soil with a pH content of 4 to 5, but it will do fine in soil with pH contents as high as 9.
• Prior to planting, turn the soil with a garden spade, mixing in the compost and removing large weeds, twigs, branches, rocks, stones and other debris.
• You should clear the soil of as many weeds as possible because once the weeds take root, it will be difficult to take them out without disturbing the Stevia, whose roots tend to run shallow.
• The temperature of the soil should be above 50 degrees, and ideally in the 60 degree range.

Planting and Growing Stevia

What You Will Need:

• Gardening gloves
• Started Stevia plants
• Prepared soil (see above)
• Garden Trowel
• Mulch

Steps for Planting and Growing Stevia:

1. Of course, Stevia can be started by seeds, but it is definitely not recommended. Stevia seeds are incredibly hard to germinate and the plants they produce are inconsistent with regard to stevioside content (sweetness levels). Consequently, the best way to cultivate Stevia is to use plants that have been started.
2. Prepare a hole large enough to accommodate the roots of your young Stevia plant.
3. Gently remove the Stevia plant from the starter container (keeping some soil around the roots) and place in the prepared hole.
4. Fill the hole around the plant up to its base with soil, and tamp down so that the plant stays secure.
5. Water the area lightly.
6. Place a generous amount of mulch around the base of the plant to protect the roots, which tend to run shallow, from drying out.
7. Allow at least 18 inches between your Stevia plants and about 20 to 24 inches between the rows to allow for proper growth. Stevia will grow about 2&½ feet high with a spread of about 2 feet.

Maintenance and Harvesting Stevia

What You Will Need:

• Gardening Gloves
• Gardening hose or watering can
• Fertilizer (low in nitrogen)
• Pruning Shears
• Drying screen or net
• Coffee grinder (optional)

Steps for Maintaining and Harvesting Stevia:

1. Water your Stevia plants just enough to keep them from wilting; overwatering will reduce the production of stevioside and can cause the roots to rot.
2. Leaf production can be enhanced by periodic application of fertilizer. Fertilizers low in nitrogen seem to work best.
3. If your plant starts to develop flowers, it is best to pinch them off before they bloom; allowing the flower to bloom will cut down on leaf production, and cause the leaf to take on a bitter taste.
4. Harvest your Stevia leaves in late autumn. The cool autumn temperatures and shorter days intensify the sweetness so many gardeners will postpone the harvest as long as possible.
5. Cut the branches of your Stevia plant with a pruning shears prior to stripping the leaves; this will make the task easier. You may also want to clip the very tips of the stems as they contain nearly as much stevioside as the leaves.
6. Once you have harvested your leaves, dry them by laying them on a screen or net and keep them in a warm location with good air circulation. If the days are still warm enough, you may want to keep them outdoors in the sun, which should have them dried in about 12 hours. Otherwise, you should keep them inside and preferably place them under a light or low level heat lamp to speed drying. Drying that takes longer than 12 hours may have an adverse affect on the sweetness of the leaves.
7. Crushing the leaves is the final step in releasing the sweetness of the Stevia plant. For this step, try using a coffee grinder; it will give you a finer powder and is a lot quicker than grinding the leaves by hand.

Additional Tips and Advice

• In the warmer climates, if you don’t cut your Stevia stems down too far, the plant will likely bloom again. However, you should only get about two seasons out of the plant, after which the plant will not be as productive and the leaves will start to lose their sweetness.
• In the colder climates, your Stevia plant won’t likely survive the winter so you will need to replant in the spring. Try propagating your plant from your existing Stevia plant before the winter sets in by taking a cutting from your plant, coating the end in root hormone and planting it in a rooting medium for two to three weeks. Then, it should be re-potted in rich potting soil and kept indoors in a warm, sunny location. When the warm weather of spring arrives, you can transplant it into your garden.
• You can make your own liquid Stevia by adding a cup of warm water to ¼ cup of finely crushed Stevia leaves. Let the mixture set for 24 hours and store in the refrigerator. The Stevia leaves will not dissolve, but they will transfer their sweetness to the water.
• Stevia does have its limitations and it is not a true substitute for sugar in all instances. It doesn’t dissolve and does have an aftertaste that some people find unpleasant. Rather than a sugar substitute, consider it more as a flavoring, as you would any other herb, and you will surely find some enjoyable uses for it.

Ginger is popular in American food, but it’s practically a staple in Asian cuisine. Not only is it easy to grow and delicious in recipes, but studies show that ginger packs powerful health benefits. Although it is a tropical plant, it will adapt easily to indoor and container planting, making it possible for anyone to enjoy fresh ginger throughout much of the year. Here’s what you need to know to bring this favorite into your own kitchen.

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type of Ginger:

• For practical purposes, ginger is most often home-grown from tubers. Your local grocery store is the best place to find ginger root to propagate.
• The most popular kind of ginger is basic ginger root (Zingiber officinale). It is commonly used in America for cookies, breads, and Ginger ales, while Asian recipes include ginger in savory dishes.
• Choose a tuber that looks healthy and plump. It should be firm with several fingers or growing buds. Avoid dry or damaged pieces.
• Not all gingers are considered edible, some types are instead prized for the plants and flowers.

Find a Suitable Place:

• Plan to grow ginger indoors unless you live in the extreme southern portions of the U.S. or in one of the desert states. Growers in zone 10 or higher will have the most success outdoors.
• Provide your ginger with a generous amount of room. Containers should be fully twice the size of the tuber. To plant more than one tuber in a single container, get one that is 14″-16″ in diameter and 12″ deep.
• Outdoors, choose a spot with light shade and well-drained soil.
• Protect plants from high winds.

Prepare the soil:

• Mix organic material or prepared compost into soil to fill the container (or amend garden soil in the same manner).
• Ginger will grow quite well in commercially prepared potting soil.

Planting/Growing Ginger

What You Will Need:

• Ginger root
• Prepared soil

How to Plant Ginger:

1. Ginger should not be placed outdoors until daytime temperatures exceed 75 degrees.
2. Soak tubers overnight in water before planting.
3. Fill containers with prepared soil, or loosen the dirt in your garden location.
4. Place ginger in the soil with the buds facing up.
5. Cover with a very thin layer of soil. (Some growers suggest leaving it uncovered).
6. Water lightly until the plant becomes established.

Harvesting/Pruning Ginger

Ginger requires very little maintenance. Here’s what you need to do.

What You Will Need:

• Garden clippers or scissors
• Small garden trowel

Steps for Care and Maintenance:

1. Younger ginger plants should remain in the shade.
2. Water regularly to maintain moist (not wet) soil.
3. Once the plant matures, clip tender new shoots for cooking at any time.
4. To harvest ginger root, dig up new tubers that appear at the base of the plant.
5. Move plants indoors when outdoor temperatures dip below 50 degrees.
6. Ginger is dormant during the winter months. Allow the plant to dry during this time.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Roots reach their optimum flavor at 265 days.
• To store ginger, wash (don’t peel) tubers before placing them in a bag and freezing them. Remove ginger from the freezer and use a vegetable peeler to pare off portions as you need them.
• Plants will mature in about ten months, reaching heights of 2″-4″.

Often when we think of dill, the first thing that comes to mind is pickles. However, its fresh taste makes it perfect for a variety of dishes including fish, soups and salads. Many herb gardeners include dill in their gardens both for its beauty and unique taste. With the right steps, dill is quite easy to grow, here’s what you need to know.

Before You Plant

Find a Suitable Place:

• Dill plants can grow quite large, ranging from 2-3 feet high, so plan accordingly, especially if dill is part of a decorative garden or landscape.
• Dill is an annual herb and will have to be replanted each year. This makes it flexible for planting as you can change your location each year if necessary.
• Dill can be grown almost anywhere. It can tolerate wet or dry areas and rich or poor soil. These plants can even be grown in water using hydroponics!
• An area with adequate drainage and full sun is preferable for the best plant growth.

Prepare the soil:

• Dill with grow in nearly any soil, but certain soil conditions will help yield a healthier, more productive plant.
• The soil should be well-worked and moderately rich. This can be achieved by mixing in rotted compost or organic material.
• The pH level of the soil can be fairly acidic, as low as 5.5 all the way up to 7.5. Soil testing kits are available through your local garden supply or home improvement store.

Planting Dill

What You Will Need:

• Dill seeds
• Prepared soil
• Fertilizer

How to Plant Dill:

1. Dill seeds should be sown after the last frost.
2. Properly prepare the soil before planting.
3. Space rows approximately 12 inches apart.
4. Scatter the seeds along the ground and cover lightly with a small layer of soil. Be cautious not to place the seeds too deep, about 1/4 inch should be sufficient.
5. Water thoroughly immediately after planting and keep moist until plants begin to sprout.
6. Once seedlings have developed, thin plants to 9 inches apart.
7. Fertilizer once or twice during the growing season with an all-purpose fertilizer.
8. During dry spells it will be necessary to water your plants once or twice a week.

Growing/Harvesting Dill

Both the leaves as well as the seeds of the dill plant can be harvested for use. The dark leaves are called dill weed and can be used for seasoning, however, the young, tender leaves often are more flavorful. Harvesting will need to be done often as this plant grows quickly.

What You Will Need:

• Garden clippers or scissors

Steps for Maintenance and Harvesting:

1. Harvest leaves by cutting with scissors once they reach mature size to use with many dishes including cucumber dishes, salads, soups, fish and dips.
2. Leaves can be cut and used fresh or frozen in Ziploc bags for future use.
3. If you wish to harvest seeds (a must for homemade pickles!), leave the plant untrimmed to allow flowers to form.
4. Flower heads will fade into seed pods and should be removed once the seed pod turns brown and has died. Remove each head and place on a wire rack to dry. Place a tray or bag underneath to catch any seeds that may fall throughout the drying process. When the heads are completely dry, shake gently to remove any remaining seeds.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Since the leaves of the dill plant are eaten, avoid using any pesticides or sprays. If pests become a problem, try an organic treatment. Be sure to check the label carefully.
• Chewing a few dill seeds can help to eliminate bad breath
• Dill can be used for helping relieve colic in children.
• Mix 1-2 teaspoons of dried seed with boiling water to make dill tea. It’s not only tasty, but helps control flatulence as well.
• Place a few leaves in a jar of vinegar to create dill vinegar.

Herbs offer a major source for seasoning of foods as well as medicinal properties as well. While the growing conditions are similar each herb has its own special requirements that are described in further detail on individual pages. Learn more about growing herbs and learning the differences among them.

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Herbs:

There are several types of herbs available:

• Perennial herbs continue to grow year after year. Some herbs such as rosemary can produce quality leaves for up to 20 years while others have a much shorter lifespan of quality leaves. Some common perennials are catnip, chives, sweet fennel, lavender, lemon balm, sweet marjoram, oregano, mint and sage.
• Biennial herbs grow for two years, producing flowers during the second year of growth. Common biennial herbs are caraway and parsley (although parsley is often planted as an annual because of its weak second year).
• Annual herbs only produce for one year and need to be replanted each spring. Annuals include anise, basil, chervil, coriander, dill, and summer savory.
• Woody perennials do not die to the ground each winter and are typically shrubs or bushes. Rosemary, thyme, winter savory, sage, sweet bay and lemon verbena are woody perennials.

Another factor in choosing which herbs to plant is where you will be planting. Hardy herbs are more set for outdoor plantings and can often withstand the cold winters with little or no protection. These hardy herbs include lavender, mint, lemon balm, angelica and sweet fennel. More tender herbs are best suited for container planting. Basil, bay, chervil, chives, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon and thyme all grow very well in container settings.

Find a Suitable Place:

Most herbs are easy to grow, but you need to find a suitable place for them to prosper. Look for an area that:

• Is mostly sunny. While some herbs may still grow in partial shade, for most, their flavor will not be as intense.
• Is free of weeds.
• Has good drainage. Most herbs can tolerate a lack of water more than they can being water-logged. If the area is not well-drained, you will need to modify it by making raised beds or installing an underground drainage tiles.

Prepare the Soil:

• Typically, any good soil is adequate for growing herb plants. Avoid using fertilizer, it creates lots of foliage, but it often lacks flavor.
• Adding adequate amounts of compost provides a richness to the soil that allows for maximum growth.
• The addition of peat moss or compost (several bushels for each 100 square feet) helps the soil retain moisture.
• Generally, a pH level of 6.5 to 7.0 works well for herbs.

Planting Herbs

What You Will Need:

• Herb seeds or plants
• Prepared soil
• Garden hoe
• Garden spade
• Garden rake
• Organic matter

Steps for Planting:

1. Begin by working the soil until loose at least 12-18 inches deep.
2. Mix in organic matter and combine well.
3. Using the garden rake, rake the area to level.
4. Plant seeds according to specific instructions being careful not to sow them too deep, usually twice as deep as their diameter. As a rule of thumb, the smaller the seed, the closer they should be planted to the surface.
5. Most herbs can be started indoors during the winter months and transplanted in the spring. The exceptions to this are dill, coriander, fennel and anise because they do not transfer well.

Multiply Plants with Cutting/Division/Layering

New herb plants can be grown from established plants using a variety of methods:

Cuttings:

• Cuttings involve removing a small portion of an established plant and using it to grow additional plants. It works well with herbs such as sage, lemon balm, rosemary and lavender.
• Select a well-established plant in late spring or early summer to take a cutting from.
• Carefully cut off a 3-5 inch piece of a tip growth, clipping just below a node. Avoid woody stems and soft shoots as they take longer to develop roots.
• Dip the end of the cutting in rooting powder available at most garden supply stores.
• Place the end of the cutting into a rich soil and firmly secure it in by pressing the soil in place.
• Allow several weeks for the roots to develop.
• It is best to keep new plants indoors over the winter and plant them outdoors in the spring.

Division:

• Division involves separating established plants in the early spring before growth has begun, and replanting so each section can develop further. This method works well with herbs such as chives, mints and French tarragon.
• Begin by digging up the established plant.
• Carefully divide the plant into sections by cutting or breaking up the roots.
• Replant each divided section spaced 12-18 inches apart.
• Keep the soil moist until the new plants are thriving.

Layering:

• Layering is the simplest way to increase the number of plants because you leave the new plant connected to the parent plant until it is established. This method works well with a variety of herbs including rosemary, thyme, winter savory, sage, bay and lemon balm.
• Begin by selecting a long branch that is low to the ground.
• Place the branch close to the soil and bend the last 6-8 inches up to a vertical position. The branch should make a “V” shape.
• Carefully scrape the bottom of the stem and insert it into the ground.
• Support the buried branch using a small stake a wire.
• Keep the plant moist while the roots are growing.
• Layering is best completed from spring to late summer, allowing the plant to remain until the following spring.
• The following spring, cut the new plant free from the parent plant and transplant (if necessary) to the desired location.

Harvesting Herbs

Harvesting your herbs is the best reward for all of your efforts. Learning when and how to harvest each herb takes experience, but there are some basic rules that can be applied to all herbs. Here is an overview of the three main types of harvesting.

Harvesting Leaves:

• The best time to harvest leaves is early in the morning as soon as the dew has dried. This is when the oils in the plant are the strongest.
• Stems are best cut when the flowers are just beginning to bloom.
• If harvesting a large amount of leaves, place them in a container such as an open weave basket that allows for plenty of air circulation. Avoid boxes or plastic bags that can cause early deterioration of the leaves.
• Only pick as many leaves as you are able to process for storage.
• Perennial plants can typically be cut down to about half their original size. Annuals can be trimmed down to a few inches or removed completely at the end of the growing season.
• Rinse all herbs in cold water and pat dry with a towel.
• Allow herbs to dry for 3-4 days or freeze them. If you opt to freeze them, begin by blanching the leaves in boiling water for no more than 50 seconds and immediately transfer them to ice water. Pat dry with a towel to remove water and arrange them in a single layer on a flat pan for the initial freezing.
• Regardless of your method, herbs that have been processed should be stored in air-tight containers.

Harvesting Seeds:

• Dill, fennel, caraway and anise all have seeds that can be processed at home.
• Begin by removing the seeds from the top of the plant when it begins to yellow in color.
• Allow the seed heads to dry for 5-6 days in a dry, cool, dark place.
• Gently shake the seeds loose and allow them to dry an additional 7 days. Stir the seeds frequently as they are drying for the best results.
• When the seeds are completely dry, store them in an air-tight container.

Harvesting Roots:

• Roots are harvested with angelica and lovey.
• Remove the roots in late fall or early spring and wash thoroughly.
• Slice or split the roots to create a thin layer evenly distributed on a sheet of screen.
• Allow the root pieces to partially dry, turning several times each week.
• Complete the drying process by placing them in a warm oven (approx. 125 degrees).
• The entire process can take 6-8 weeks. Roots have achieved the desired level of dryness if they snap when you bend them.
• Store in an air-tight container.

Whether you’re looking for a topping for your favorite savory dish or just want to try a new herb, chives are a top choice for any gardener. A member of the onion family, this perennial herb is surprisingly simple to grow. Once the plants are established, you’ll have chives forever!

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type of Chives:

• Two types of chives are available, depending on your taste. The most common type is the onion chive which has an onion flavor.
• A second variety, the Chinese Chive, has a hint of garlic flavor to it.

Find a Suitable Place:

• Chives can be grown almost anywhere. They thrive in both window boxes, indoor and out, as well as in gardens.
• Chive plants produce beautiful flowers which makes them a perfect addition to landscaping.
• An area with full sun is best, but a significant amount of shade will also be tolerated by this hardy plant.
• An area that provides good drainage will produce the best quality chive plants.

Prepare the soil:

• Before planting, loosen the soil very well and mix in organic matter or rotted compost. This provides the rich soil that promotes growth.
• Bonemeal can be added to the soil (about 1-2 cups per square yard) to create the optimum soil conditions.
• Chives prefer the acidity level of the soil to be around 6.0 – 7.0 pH. There are soil testing kits available at most gardening or home supply stores, or you can have your soil tested by a professional to find out if any adjustments are necessary.
• The above soil methods are optimal, but not necessarily required as chives will grow in almost any average, well-drained soil. However, if the soil is prepared as above, no future feeding will be required.

Planting Chives

What You Will Need:

• Chive seeds or seedlings
• Prepared soil
• Fertilizer (optional)

Steps for Planting Chives:

1. Chives seeds can be started indoors (six weeks before spring) and then transplanted, or seeds can be sown directly into the soil at the beginning of spring.
2. Properly prepare the soil before planting.
3. Following the packet directions, sow the seeds onto moist soil.
4. If planting bulbs, it’s best to plant them in bunches – about 5 bulbs to a bunch. Space the plants about four inches apart.
5. Fertilizer is often unnecessary; unless soil conditions are poor and no additions were made to the soil prior to planting.
6. Over time the bulb part of the chives will grow and expand into a clump of bulbs. New plants can be propagated from this clump of bulbs using division. Every few years, dig up the root bulbs and separate into individual bulbs. Replant each individual bulb so the tip is level with the soil, about 2-3 inches apart. Each bulb will grow into a new plant.

Growing/Harvesting Chives

Chives continue to grow continuously all season long. They will grow year-round if planted indoors. To get the most from your plant, follow these steps.

What You Will Need:

• Garden clippers or scissors

Steps for Maintenance and Harvesting:

1. As long as weeds are kept under control, and they are watered when the weather is very dry, chives will continue to grow.
2. As soon as the leaves have reached several inches in height, you can start removing the needed portions.
3. Begin by removing the outer-edge leaves and working inward. Cut the leaves with scissors, leaving 1-2 inches above the ground.
4. Once flowers appear, purple pom pom flowers on onion chives or white flowers on garlic chives, cut the stems back.
5. To promote new growth, cut back whenever the height exceeds six inches.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Since the leaves of the chives are eaten, avoid using any pesticides or sprays. If pests become a problem, try an organic treatment. Be sure to check the label carefully.
• Chives are high in vitamin C.
• Chive flowers are edible and make beautiful additions to salads.
• When growing chives in containers, fertilize once a month and water whenever the compost begins to dry out.
• It is best to divide chive bulbs in either March or October.
• Avoid planting chives near onions as it increases the chances of a common pest, the onion fly, attacking your plants.
• Most chives will keep their leave through the winter. However, if the winter is harsh and the leaves die, do not worry – they’ll return with new growth in the spring.

There are many reasons you will want to include chamomile in your herb garden. This popular herb not only makes a soothing tea, but its daisy-like flowers and sweet scent make it a must have for your flower garden. Though it started out in Europe, this fragrant beauty has quickly spread world-wide and is easy to add to your collection as well.

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type of Chamomile:

• There are two main types of chamomile, each with its own distinct properties.
• German chamomile is an annual herb that reaches heights of 2-3 feet.
• Roman chamomile is a perennial herb that only reaches a height of 4-12 inches, making it a good candidate for ground cover.

Find a Suitable Place:

• Chamomile plants need an area that receives full sun.
• If space is limited, consider growing this herb in a container either indoors or on a patio.
• Both herb gardens and flower gardens make great homes for the chamomile plant.

Prepare the soil:

• Proper drainage is important, but soil needs to hold moisture for the plant to grow.
• Soil should be average to rich in quality. Amend poor soil by working in rotted compost or organic matter.
• The acidity of the soil is another factor to consider. Chamomile will grow in a wide range of acidic soil anything with 5.6 – 7.5 pH. There are soil testing kits available at most gardening or home supply stores, or you can have your soil tested by a professional to find out if any adjustments are necessary.

Planting Chamomile

What You Will Need:

• Chamomile seeds
• Prepared soil
• Fertilizer
• Mulch

Steps for Planting Chamomile:

1. Properly prepare the soil before planting.
2. Seeds need light to germinate, so rather than sowing the seeds, broadcast them onto moist soil in the spring after the last frost.
3. Allow one to two weeks for the plants to germinate.
4. When seedlings have developed, thin the plants to 6 inches for ground cover or 18 inches for decorative plants.
5. Apply fertilizer regularly to achieve maximum plant growth.
6. Water regularly to keep the soil moist. Placing mulch around the plants will help to retain moisture.

Growing/Harvesting Chamomile

What You Will Need:

• Garden clippers or scissors
• Tray
• Wire rack

Steps for Care and Maintenance:

1. Remove all dead flowers, otherwise known as deadheading, regularly to keep new blossoms forming.
2. Harvest flowers by cutting them off as they reach their peak bloom; use fresh in tea or dry for winter use.
3. To dry, place flowers on a tray and allow to dry thoroughly in a cool, dark place. Store in an air-tight container.
4. In the fall, cut the plant down and cover with mulch to provide protection from harsh winter weather.
5. Once planted, this plant will self-seed to produce new plants each year.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Since the flowers of the chamomile plant are eaten, avoid using any pesticides or sprays. If pests become a problem, try an organic treatment. Be sure to check the label carefully.
• Flowers can be used to make fresh tea or combined with other teas to make a delicious herbal blend. It also makes a great addition to punch as it can be served hot or cold.
• Use chamomile to make a hair rinse.
• Chamomile is often used to treat aches and the tea is often used to help with upset stomachs.
• Toothaches can also be treated by grinding the chamomile and mixing with a little water to form a paste. Apply to the irritated tooth for relief.