Tea is a popular beverage both for enjoyment as well as its medicinal properties. Green, white, oolong and black teas are all harvested from the same tea shrub, Camellia sinesis, which is very easy to grow. Here’s how to make the most out of your tea shrub and reap the benefits with the phenomenal taste of fresh tea. 

Preparing to Plant 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• Tea shrubs grow well up to the zone 8 hardiness zone and prefer humid climates.
• Seedlings and young plants should be planted in the shade and then transferred to an area with full sun when they mature.
• If you don’t have an area outside, or if the temperature is too cold, tea shrubs can also be grown as indoor plants.
• The mature tea shrub can reach heights of 6-10 feet if left untrimmed. 

Preparing the Soil: 

• Camilla sinensis prefer acidic, sandy soil that is well drained.  If you have less than ideal planting conditions amend the soil by adding in missing components.  If you need to adjust the pH, there are fertilizers available for nearly any soil situation.
• If you are planting your tea in a container, mix sphagnum moss in with the potting soil. 

Planting 

What You Will Need: 

• Mulch
• Fertilizer
• Garden trowel
• Small shovel
• Tea shrub, cuttings or seeds
• Water
• Plenty of patience 

How to Plant: 

1. Once you have found the best location for your shrub and prepared the soil, you are ready to plant.
2. You can start your tea shrub from seeds, but many find it easier to use cuttings or buy a shrub from a nursery.
3. Begin by digging the hole in the sandy soil. The size of the hole needed will vary depending on the size of the shrub you are planting. You will want the hole to be deep enough to completely submerge the roots along with a couple inches of the stem/trunk.
4. Add a small amount of water to the hole.
5. Remove the shrub from its current container and prepare the roots by loosening tight clumps. Your goal is to break up the dirt and loosen the roots without breaking them off.
6. Place the roots into the hole and cover with soil.
7. Cover the ground with 2-4 inches of mulch to help retain moisture and reduce weeds.
8. Water your plant frequently to keep the soil moist, especially on warm days. Try to moisten the soil, but avoid soaking the area.
9. Apply fertilizer to the area directly around the shrub periodically to help with growth. Camilla shrubs are not heavy feeders, so using an acidic fertilizer at half-strength applied just once every 2-3 weeks will most likely be sufficient.
10. Once your tea shrub is planted, it just needs loving care, plenty of patience and time to mature. Shrubs should have 3 years to grow before you begin harvesting the leaves. 

Harvesting 

When your tree is established, you will want to start harvesting the leaves. The various stages of the leaves along with special processing methods that allow for different levels of fermentation produce the varieties of tea. 

Green Tea (No fermentation of leaves) 

• For green tea, pluck the youngest leaves and buds, this typically consists of the terminal 3 leaves and the terminal bud.
• Allow the leaves to dry, away from direct sunlight, for several hours.
• Next you will want to either steam or pan heat your green tea leaves.
• To steam the leaves, use the same process as steaming vegetables and steam for about 1 minute.
• To pan heat the leaves, place the leaves in a pan and heat to about 500° F for 15 minutes. Keep the pan in constant motion to avoid burning.
• To dry the leaves, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 250° F oven (no hotter than this) for 10-20 minutes.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

Oolong Tea (Leaves are partly fermented) 

• For oolong tea, pluck the youngest leaves and buds, this typically consists of the terminal 3 leaves and the terminal bud.
• Place the leaves on a tray or towel and allow them to wilt under the sun for about 45 minutes.
• Move the leaves out of the sun and heat and allow them to sit for a few hours at room temperature.
• Mix the leaves around every hour while they are sitting.
• As the leaves begin to dry, you will notice the edges beginning to turn red in color.
• To dry the leaves, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 250° F oven (no hotter than this) for 10-20 minutes.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

Black Tea (Leaves are fully fermented) 

• For black tea, pluck the youngest leaves and buds, this typically consists of the terminal 3 leaves and the terminal bud.
• Place the leaves between your hands and use a rubbing motion to crush the leaves until they begin to darken and turn red in color.
• Place the leaves on a tray and leave them set in a cool place for a couple of days.
• To dry the leaves, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 250° F oven (no hotter than this) for 10-20 minutes.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

White Tea (No fermentation of leaves) 

• White tea is only harvested in the spring when the very newest of leaves are available.
• Pluck the newest leaves and buds, just as they are emerging on the plant, these will still have the white fuzz on them and the buds will still be closed. The leaves will have a silver look.
• Spread the leaves out on a pan and allow them to wither and dry.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

Additional Tips and Ideas 

1. Add herbs, dried fruits or edible flowers to your tea before steeping for an endless variety of flavors.
2. Tea plants produce fragrant flowers that can be very attractive to insects, especially moths.
3. White tea has three times more antioxidants than green or black tea.

Stevia (or stevia rebaudiana) is an herb that has been the focus of much unjustified controversy and for a while was under strict scrutiny by the FDA. The plant originated in Paraguay and is sometimes known as “Sweet Herb of Paraguay.” Concentrated Stevia powder is sold in many natural food stores as a dietary supplement, but it is know for the sweetness in lieu of high calorie sugar, although due to restrictions, it cannot currently be sold as a “natural sweetener,” even though that’s what it is often used for. Home-grown Stevia lacks the potency of the refined powder sold in stores, which has a stevioside content (the stuff that makes Stevia sweet) of about 81 to 91 percent. The stevioside content in a home grown Stevia leaf is about 12 percent. Still home grown Stevia leaves can act as a nice supplement to the Stevia powder that you already use.

Before you Plant

Choose the Right Type of Stevia:

• Stevia grows fairly quickly in moderate temperatures and can be grown in most climates zone so long as the temperature stays above 40 degrees for the length of the growing season. Of course, depending upon your zone, the length of your Stevia growing season may vary.
• Young Stevia plants are sensitive to cold and frost, and should only be planted outdoors after the danger of the last frost has passed, and the soil has warmed up to 50 or 60 degrees Fahrenheit. In the coldest zones (Zones 1 and 2) this means you might not be planting until mid to late June. In the warmest zones (Zones 10 and 11) you may be planting as early as January or February.
• In the colder zones, Stevia should be treated as an annual, and will need to be replanted every year. In the warmer climates where the winters are not harsh, Stevia can be treated as a perennial and will likely survive for two or three harvests.
• Stevia also does well in a container and can be grown indoors, so long as you have sufficient lighting.
• It maybe difficult to find Stevia plants for transplanting, and you may have to do a bit of digging to find someone who sells them. Check with your local natural foods stores. There are also several mail-order businesses that will ship the Stevia plants to you. Even then, the potency of the Stevia leaves may vary from one distributer to another, so it is best to ask around to find one who is reputable and with whom others have had good experiences.

Find a Suitable Place

• Stevia prefers sunlight, but will do fine with light shade, especially if you’re planting in one of the warmer climates where temperatures may climb over 100 degrees in the summer.
• The garden patch where you intend to plant the Stevia should be well-drained and not subject to standing water. Consider planting at the top of a gentle slope. Do not choose a spot that is at the bottom of a hill or slope, where water would tend to pond.
• Stevia does best when it’s planted by itself, not with other herbs or flowers.
• If planting Stevia in a container garden, make sure it is in a spot that gets adequate sunlight, and that is protected from frost and cold.

Prepare the Soil:

• Stevia thrives well in rich, loamy soil; the soil should have plenty of compost.
• In their natural environment, Stevia is found in soil with a pH content of 4 to 5, but it will do fine in soil with pH contents as high as 9.
• Prior to planting, turn the soil with a garden spade, mixing in the compost and removing large weeds, twigs, branches, rocks, stones and other debris.
• You should clear the soil of as many weeds as possible because once the weeds take root, it will be difficult to take them out without disturbing the Stevia, whose roots tend to run shallow.
• The temperature of the soil should be above 50 degrees, and ideally in the 60 degree range.

Planting and Growing Stevia

What You Will Need:

• Gardening gloves
• Started Stevia plants
• Prepared soil (see above)
• Garden Trowel
• Mulch

Steps for Planting and Growing Stevia:

1. Of course, Stevia can be started by seeds, but it is definitely not recommended. Stevia seeds are incredibly hard to germinate and the plants they produce are inconsistent with regard to stevioside content (sweetness levels). Consequently, the best way to cultivate Stevia is to use plants that have been started.
2. Prepare a hole large enough to accommodate the roots of your young Stevia plant.
3. Gently remove the Stevia plant from the starter container (keeping some soil around the roots) and place in the prepared hole.
4. Fill the hole around the plant up to its base with soil, and tamp down so that the plant stays secure.
5. Water the area lightly.
6. Place a generous amount of mulch around the base of the plant to protect the roots, which tend to run shallow, from drying out.
7. Allow at least 18 inches between your Stevia plants and about 20 to 24 inches between the rows to allow for proper growth. Stevia will grow about 2&½ feet high with a spread of about 2 feet.

Maintenance and Harvesting Stevia

What You Will Need:

• Gardening Gloves
• Gardening hose or watering can
• Fertilizer (low in nitrogen)
• Pruning Shears
• Drying screen or net
• Coffee grinder (optional)

Steps for Maintaining and Harvesting Stevia:

1. Water your Stevia plants just enough to keep them from wilting; overwatering will reduce the production of stevioside and can cause the roots to rot.
2. Leaf production can be enhanced by periodic application of fertilizer. Fertilizers low in nitrogen seem to work best.
3. If your plant starts to develop flowers, it is best to pinch them off before they bloom; allowing the flower to bloom will cut down on leaf production, and cause the leaf to take on a bitter taste.
4. Harvest your Stevia leaves in late autumn. The cool autumn temperatures and shorter days intensify the sweetness so many gardeners will postpone the harvest as long as possible.
5. Cut the branches of your Stevia plant with a pruning shears prior to stripping the leaves; this will make the task easier. You may also want to clip the very tips of the stems as they contain nearly as much stevioside as the leaves.
6. Once you have harvested your leaves, dry them by laying them on a screen or net and keep them in a warm location with good air circulation. If the days are still warm enough, you may want to keep them outdoors in the sun, which should have them dried in about 12 hours. Otherwise, you should keep them inside and preferably place them under a light or low level heat lamp to speed drying. Drying that takes longer than 12 hours may have an adverse affect on the sweetness of the leaves.
7. Crushing the leaves is the final step in releasing the sweetness of the Stevia plant. For this step, try using a coffee grinder; it will give you a finer powder and is a lot quicker than grinding the leaves by hand.

Additional Tips and Advice

• In the warmer climates, if you don’t cut your Stevia stems down too far, the plant will likely bloom again. However, you should only get about two seasons out of the plant, after which the plant will not be as productive and the leaves will start to lose their sweetness.
• In the colder climates, your Stevia plant won’t likely survive the winter so you will need to replant in the spring. Try propagating your plant from your existing Stevia plant before the winter sets in by taking a cutting from your plant, coating the end in root hormone and planting it in a rooting medium for two to three weeks. Then, it should be re-potted in rich potting soil and kept indoors in a warm, sunny location. When the warm weather of spring arrives, you can transplant it into your garden.
• You can make your own liquid Stevia by adding a cup of warm water to ¼ cup of finely crushed Stevia leaves. Let the mixture set for 24 hours and store in the refrigerator. The Stevia leaves will not dissolve, but they will transfer their sweetness to the water.
• Stevia does have its limitations and it is not a true substitute for sugar in all instances. It doesn’t dissolve and does have an aftertaste that some people find unpleasant. Rather than a sugar substitute, consider it more as a flavoring, as you would any other herb, and you will surely find some enjoyable uses for it.

Starting a vineyard is no small task, but is one that can reap big rewards. With careful planning and execution, you can ensure that your vineyard will provide abundant crops for many years.

Before You Plant

Select the Right Site:

There are many factors to consider when choosing the perfect place for your vineyard.

• Climate – Take a close look at the high/low temperatures and frost-free periods for your area. Factors such as wind and altitude are also important to note. These factors help in determining where your vineyard will prosper.
• Sunlight – Grapes require sun to grow well. Find an area that is away from trees and other shade-producing plants.
• Soils – The quality of the soil in the area is another key factor. Consider the fertility, types of soils, drainage and the depth of the soil.
• Water – This includes both the quality as well as water sources. How much water is available from wells, etc. in the area and what irrigation options are available?
• Field Size – How large will your vineyard be? Determine this early on when you decide which grapes you plan to grow and how much room they will require.
• Wineries – Ultimately, you’ll want to produce wine from your grapes. If you are not completing this yourself, how close is the nearest winery?
• Other factors – Agricultural zoning and regulations, sources of power and cost of the land are other considerations that need to be thought out when choosing a place to start your vineyard.

How to Select Grapes:

There are four major types of grapes grown around the world:

1. Vitis Vinifera
2. Vitis Lubrusca,
3. Hybrids of these two
4. Vitis Rotoundifolia.

Research which type will grow best in your location and/or visit local vineyards to see what types of grapes grow well in your area.

Prepare the Soil:

• Remove the top layer of dirt, including all weeds and roots, and discard.
• Till the soil thoroughly to provide loose, workable ground for planting.

Planting Vines

What You Will Need:

• Grapevine (with roots established)
• Small shovel or spade
• Trellis or grape arbor
• Copper wire or string
• Plastic mesh
• Potting soil
• Fertilizer (10-20-10)

How to Plant Grapes:

1. Begin by marking the rows by making 3-4 inch grooves through the loosened soil.
2. Next, place stakes where each grapevine will be planted. Space plants 6-8 feet apart.
3. Dig a hole that is twice the size of the pot that your vines are planted in and slightly deeper.
4. Mix potting soil with the original soil and place a small amount of the mixture into the hole.
5. Water the bottom of the hole as well as the plant in the pot prior to planting.
6. Place the grapevine into the hole and fill in with remaining soil mixture.
7. Water regularly during dry conditions, but do not allow the plants to become water-logged as this can lead to root rot.
8. Fertilize the vines twice each year around the base (at least six inches out), do not allow fertilizer to get too close or it may burn the plant. Water the area to release the fertilizer.
9. Plants will begin to grow in the spring, if planted in the fall. If you are planting in the spring, you will see some growth, but most likely will not have grapes for another year or two.

Year Two:

1. This year you want to begin training the vines where to grow. This is accomplished by tying them to the trellis or posts in the direction they should grow.
2. When fruit begins to grow, add plastic mesh over the plants to prevent birds from eating them.

Pruning/Harvesting Grapes

Pruning your grapevines is the most important part of this ‘art.’ Pruning allows you to manage the plant, regulate the size of the crop and adjust the quality of the fruit.

What You Will Need:

• Clippers / lopping shears

Learning When and How to Prune:

1. The art of pruning is developed over time and is affected mostly by your desired outcome. Here are some pruning times, each with different outcomes:
   • Summer Pruning to Increase Fruit Growth: Trim back vines when they have exceeded 2-3 feet of growth. This directs the energy back into the fruit, rather than plant growth, making a sweeter, more productive crop.
   • Fall Pruning: These prunings are not recommended and should only be done if you are sure there will be no warm spells that would allow growth before winter. Typically it is best to wait and do a winter pruning.
   • Winter/Spring Pruning: Most plants are pruned in late winter to allow for new growth. The key to this is pruning early enough that new growth has not already begun and late enough that no new growth will form before a frost. If this happens, it will lead to freeze damage which is dangerous for your grapevines. It is often best to prune no more than one month before the last frost.
2. Pruning is a detailed process, there are even books devoted to pruning grapevines. Here are some basic rules to get you started.
   • Lateral shoots (those growing to the side) are not fruitful and should be removed. Only keep these shoots if you need them to grow onto the trellis for support.
   • Prune new shoots way back the first few years to encourage growth of the main vine.
   • Keep the first 6-12 buds on the cane, these produce the fruit, and trim back the rest unless they are needed for trellis support.
   • Prune any brown or brittle buds as they have been winter damaged and need to be removed.
   • Prune away enough of the vine to allow plenty of air and sunlight to reach the fruit and vines.
3. Harvest your grapes when the grape at the bottom of the bunch is sweet. If some of the grapes are not fully ripened, they can be ripened by setting in the sun for a day or two.

Mint is a beautiful herb that has one of the most recognizable aromas. A perennial that grows in nearly any condition, mint can be used nearly anywhere for both gardening and landscape purposes. There is a variety to fit every situation, so don’t hesitate to add this beautiful gem to your herb garden today!

Before You Plant Mint

Choose the Right Type of Mint:

• Spearmint and peppermint are the most popular types of mint. If you like chocolate, then mint chocolate may be the plant for you.
• There around 3,500 varieties of mint, so there truly is a taste for every palette.

Find a Suitable Place:

• Mint thrives in plenty of sunlight. However, it does not like dry conditions, making partial shade a necessity. An ideal location would be facing a north wall.
• While tolerant of most growing situations, optimum soil and placement will yield the best results.
• Choose a moist, well-drained location.

Prepare the Soil:

• The best soil for mint is well-dug, fertile and well-drained. Water-logged soil will yield a less beautiful plant.
• These preparations make the best growing conditions, but mint will thrive in almost any soil.

Planting/Growing Mint

What You Will Need:

• Mint seeds or plants
• Prepared soil
• Bottomless bucket
• Black plastic pierced with small holes

How to Plant Mint:

1. Mint seeds can be started indoors and transplanted into the garden, or seeds can be sown directly into the soil in the spring.
2. Mint has crawling roots that can overtake your garden and kill other plants. To keep this under control, begin by digging a hole large enough for the bottomless bucket (simply a bucket with the bottom cut out). Place the bottomless bucket in the hole and fill in dirt all around. It should be close enough to the surface that the roots will grow down inside, but deep enough that it cannot be seen.
3. Another option for rows is to dig down approximately 1 foot and line the row with black plastic. Fill in with the removed dirt and plant the seeds according to instructions on the packet.
4. Place the plants into the prepared area when planting. As the plant grows the bucket/plastic will help to contain the roots as much as possible.
5. Place seedlings about 1 foot apart or thin seedlings once the seeds have sprouted.
6. Water occasionally until the plant is thriving, after which you will only water during extended droughts.
7. Fertilization is usually unnecessary, unless the soil is unusually poor.
8. Growing mint in containers is equally as easy, and potting compost is sufficient. Water only when dry and feed once a month during the growing season.
9. Containers also allow the plants to be brought indoors for the frost and cold to enjoy mint all year long!

Harvesting Mint

What You Will Need:

• Garden clippers or scissors

Steps for Care and Maintenance:

1. Remove leaves as needed for harvesting. The leaves are most flavorful when the spikes are in full bloom.
2. Removing leaves from the top of the plant will encourage new growth further down the stem.
3. Only remove what you need, but never remove all of the leaves from the plant.
4. Leaves can generally be harvested for 6 months out of the year when grown outside, or year-round when grown indoors in containers.

Additional Tips and Advice

• The main problem with mint plants is rust (orange spots often on the underside of the leaves). Be diligent in getting rid of rust quickly as this can easily kill all of your mint plants.
• Mint leaves can be dried, but it often results in a lack of flavor.
• Mint can be used to relieve upset stomachs and headaches.

Ginseng has been used for medicinal purposes for many years. Science today has recognized that particular varieties of ginseng may have numerous health benefits. There are three main varieties of ginseng: Asian (or Oriental), Siberian and American, but the one most commonly grown in the United States is the American variety. Growing ginseng requires a very particular environment and a lot of patience; it can take up to 10 years to harvest your first mature crop.

Before You Plant

• A license or permit may be required to grow ginseng. State regulations vary and you need to check with your State Department of Agriculture before you do any planting.
• Ginseng is not a crop that can be planted in the average backyard garden. Ginseng requires a heavily shaded area and primarily does well in mature hardwood forests (especially among poplar, maple, beech, hickory and walnut trees).
• Ginseng is a cool weather crop and will not grow well in southern states, unless planted in the cooler mountainous regions.
• Ginseng requires soil that is generally moist and loamy (loose, fertile soil consisting of clay, sand and silt), without an overly heavy concentration of clay. If you are serious about the success of your ginseng crop, make sure you test the soil in the area where you are planting. It should be on the acidic side (pH around 4.5 to 5.5), and the calcium levels should be around 4000 pounds per acre. To encourage larger roots (the medicinal part of the plant), phosphorus should be present in the soil in concentrations of at least 95 pounds per acre. You can use commercial fertilizers to adjust the composition of your soil.
• Make sure you choose a spot for growing that is out of the public eye. Ginseng poaching is a problem because of the commercial value of the plant.

Ginseng Planting, Growing & Harvesting

What You Will Need:

• Ginseng seeds (stratified* is recommended)
• Knife with a blade at least 2 inches long.
• Garden trowel
• Gardening gloves

*Ginseng seeds don’t sprout the year after they are produced as you might expect. Instead, they need a year of stratification, where the seed will lose the outer flesh and garner the energy to sprout. You can purchase seeds that have already been ‘stratified.’ They are more expensive but you will save yourself the extra year of waiting for the plant to sprout.

Steps to Take:

1. Ginseng seeds should be sown in the late fall or early winter, after the leaves have fallen from the trees and the ground is moist (i.e. after a rainfall or even a light snowfall, so long as the ground is not frozen).
2. With your gardening gloves on, clear the leaf debris in the area you are going to plant. It is recommended that you stir the leaves with a stick before putting your hands in, in case there are any critters hiding within.
3. Insert your knife blade into the ground where you intend to plant the seed to make sure there is at least 2 inches of soil before you hit rock or roots.
4. Dig a small hole, about 1/4 inch deep, drop the seed in the hole, and push soil back into the hole to cover seed, patting it down firmly. Cover the area with about 3 inches of damp leaves.
5. Mark your area so that you will remember where you planted your seeds. Try to mark it inconspicuously so that you will not attract ginseng poachers.
6. Ginseng will develop into a mature, harvestable crop in about 7 to 10 years. It requires very little maintenance. Check it periodically for fungus or pests. If you spaced the seeds properly, there shouldn’t be much risk of fungus or other disease. The only pests that may harm your crop are deer and digging mammals. You may also want to have your soil tested every 2 to 3 years to make sure it is still amenable to optimal ginseng growth.
7. Ginseng will grow to about a foot tall with light green flowers that appear in the summer. The plant ripens in the fall and produces red berries, each containing two seeds.
8. Your plants should be harvested in the fall, after the berries and seeds have fallen away. The root should be thick, fleshy and yellowish white in color and should be about 3 to 4 inches long.
9. Store ginseng roots on a flat rack, keeping them dry and in the shade. Don’t place the roots in direct sunlight. Depending on the size, it can take up to a month to dry completely.

Additional Tips and Advice

• When entering a wooded area for planting, always exercise caution and stay aware of your environment. Wear long pants, long sleeves and hard-toe hiking boots. Make sure to use bug repellant to discourage mosquitoes and ticks. Carry a phone or other communication device and make sure someone is either with you, or knows where you are.
• Even before your ginseng plants reach maturity, the leaves can be harvested and dried to make tea.
• Use a GPS device to help you locate your planted seeds. Forested areas change over the course of years, and it is easy to lose track of where you planted your ginseng. Plugging the location into your GPS can help.
• Make sure you buy your ginseng seeds from a reputable supplier. If ginseng seeds are allowed to dry out, they will die and be useless. To check if your seeds are okay, drop them in a dish of water. If the seeds float to the top, they are dried out and dead.
• Ginseng poaching is a huge problem, and there are individuals out there who are quite adept at hunting down ginseng crops. To avoid attracting poachers, make sure your ginseng crop is well hidden on private property. Never try to confront poachers yourself. Contact local law enforcement and let them handle the situation.