Petunias are beautiful, carefree flowers that seem to fill a space with laughter, maturing into tumbling masses of blooms that show from spring to frost, and they happily adapt to containers for a splash of color nearly anywhere.  Easily one of the most popular annuals, they fill the air with a sweet scent that radiates from cascading streams of flowers.  Best of all, petunias are notoriously easy to grow.  In fact, all you need is a patch of dirt and, with even meager exposure to sun, petunias will put on an enthusiastic show!  

Before You Plant 

Choose the Right Type: 

• Grandiflora petunias produce large, showy flowers.  With a penchant towards quality, not quantity, these petunias often display blooms that are 3-4” or larger in diameter, with single or double ruffled flowers.  Cascading varieties are dramatic additions to hanging baskets, although not as hardy to wind and weather damage as Multiflora varieties.  Bush-style plants mature to 12-15” in height.
• Multiflora petunias produce smaller flowers, but with huge quantities of blooms at any given time, the result is a garden that is positively teeming with color.  These dainty flowers are usually single bloom, although double bloom varieties are available.
• Milliflora Petunias are considered great for borders or edging.  Tiny flowers measure just one to 1.5” inches in diameter, but they add big color to containers and flower beds.
• Groundcover, or “spreading” petunias, are enchanting additions to hanging baskets, where they’ll frequently grow to 2-3’ or longer in trails bursting with blooms.  These varieties quickly fill flower beds and walls, thriving in full sun. 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• Petunias adore full sun and will put on quite a show when planted there, but they will even grow in light shade, although with fewer flowers.  For best results, find a spot with 5-6 hours of sun exposure each day.
• Avoid standing water.  Petunias do not require exceptional soil in order to prosper, but it must drain well.  Mix in sand or raise the bed in order to promote drainage.
• Wait until danger of frost has passed before spring planting.  Petunias will grow in nearly any area as long as the soil has reached a temperature of approximately 60 degrees, and will continue to bloom until frost. 

Prepare the Soil: 

• While petunias are not fussy and do not require excellent soil, plants are healthier and better producers if you mix organic material into the bed.  Turn compost, manure, or peat moss into the top several inches of the soil to improve the bed.
• Before planting, fertilize with 10-10-10 at a rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet.
• If soil is wet or slow to drain, mix in sand and/or raise the bed to allow for better drainage. 

Planting/Growing 

What You Will Need:  

• Petunia seeds (or plants)
• Seed starter kit
• Potting soil
• Garden trowel
• 20-20-20 fertilizer
• Small shovel
• Prepared beds 

Steps for Starting Seeds:

1. Start seeds approximately 6 weeks before the usual planting time for your region (or after the last frost).
2. Follow the directions on the seed starter kit to get your petunias off to a healthy start.
3. Water seeds as needed to prevent soil from drying out.
4. After seedlings sprout, thin plants to the strongest one or two plants per hole.
5. Fertilize every two weeks with 20-20-20, following the manufacturer’s directions.
6. On warm days, place the seedling tray outdoors, uncovered, for an hour or two at a time, gradually increasing exposure time to “harden” the plants ahead of transplanting.
7. Once the outside soil temperature has reached 60 degrees and all danger of frost has passed, it’s time to put them in the garden!  

Steps for Transplanting to the Garden:

1. Whether you grew your own seedlings or purchased potted petunias, the process of planting them in the garden is the same.  Start by finding a sunny, well-drained spot.
2. Plan to space plants approximately 12” apart, with Milliflora varieties somewhat closer together and allowing slightly more space for groundcover petunias.
3. Dig a hole that is slightly larger than the plant itself so that the surrounding soil will be loose and favorable for root growth.
4. Backfill the hole so that the level of the ground will be equal to that of the dirt with the plant.
5. Gently fill the remainder of the space with dirt, patting it firmly and gently to the ground.
6. Water thoroughly at the time of planting to prevent wilting.
7. Continue to fertilize with 20-20-20 as directed on the label.
8. Protect new plants from wind, heavy rain, or extreme temperatures for at least two weeks following transplant. 

Growing/Pruning 

Petunias require very little maintenance.  These easy steps will keep them at their show-stopping best! 

What You Will Need: 

• 5-10-5 or 10-10-10 fertilizer
• water 

Steps for Care and Maintenance: 

1. Mulch plants to help retain moisture and ward off weeds.
2. Fertilize plants at least once during the summer, but avoid over fertilizing which may result in excessive green growth with little flowering.
3. Allow top layers of soil to dry before watering plants.  Excess moisture can cause mold, mildew, and disease in the plants.
4. Remove dead or fading blooms to encourage new growth. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. Yellow foliage may indicate a lack of iron or nitrogen in the plant.  The right fertilizer will correct this problem.
2. Plant petunias on a cloudy day to help them adjust more easily to their outdoor location.
3. If you cut petunias for display, be sure to remove all leaves that may become submerged in water.  Wet leaves decay rapidly, ruining your arrangement.

Peonies are stunning, delicate flowers.  Native to Asia, southern Europe, and westernNorth America, peonies grow best in cool climates and require winter’s chill for blooms in the spring.  Because varieties can be either herbaceous or woody in nature, there is certainly a peony for every need and preference.  These long-lasting perennials are an excellent way to add a burst of color to your garden! 

Before You Plant 

Choose the Right Type: 

• Herbaceous, or plant-like, peonies prefer cooler climate zones.  They will, however, grow anywhere they experience a cold winter, even as far south as northernFloridaandTexasas long as there are few cold weeks of winter.  Areas where the temperature dips more than 40 degrees below zero are less than ideal for a peony, which eliminates much of the northern tier of Midwestern andNew EnglandStates.
• Woody, or tree, peonies are slightly less hardy in the cold.  In the northern half of theUnited States, tree peonies may need protection over the winter in order to thrive and produce spring-time flowers.  They will grow well into the southern reaches of theUSin all but the hottest regions, producing flowers in spring with exposure to below freezing temperatures during the cold months.
• Both varieties of peonies have been successful outside of their optimum temperature conditions with a bit of extra care, so it’s quite possible to have success growing peonies throughout much of the United States. 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• Peonies require a great deal of sunshine, so plant them in full sun for a bounty of blooms.  In areas where summer temperatures reach extreme levels, a light shade canopy during the hottest time of the day will benefit the plants.
• The area must be free of standing water, as peonies rot quickly.  They prefer a rich, heavy soil, so the key is to make sure that it is exceptionally well drained.
• In mild climates, plant with northern exposure and avoid mulching to assure that peonies receive the required cold for best production.
• Ideally, the soil pH should be 6.0 to 7.0.  Your local cooperative extension office can test your soil for you, or you can buy pH test kits from hardware stores. 

Prepare the Soil: 

• Peonies prefer a heavy, rich soil that is well drained.  If you have less than ideal planting conditions amend the soil with peat, compost, and fertilizer as needed.  If you need to adjust the pH, there are fertilizers available for nearly any soil situation.
• The best time to plant peonies is fall through frost.  A springtime planting may prevent the plant from blooming for a season or two. 

Planting/Growing 

What You Will Need:  

• Peony plants
• Small shovel
• Prepared soil 

Steps for Planting Herbaceous Peonies:

1. Choose a location carefully.  Peonies don’t like to be moved, so you should consider your new peonies to be permanent residents and space them accordingly.
2. Use the shovel to dig a hole approximately 18” in diameter and 12”-18” in depth.   Plants should be 2.5’-3’ apart.
3. Fill the bottom 2”-4” with organic matter (peat, compost, leaves, etc) and add ½ cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer to the hole (or use a fertilizer as needed for your soil conditions).  Do not leave fertilizer where it will directly contact the roots.
4. Fill the hole half full of prepared soil.
5. Place the bare root peony in the hole, backfilling under the roots with soil.  Be sure that the “eyes” are facing upward, and no more than 2” below the surface of the soil once planted.
6. If the plant is not bare root, prepare the soil as directed and plant the peony as the same level as it was in the pot.  Peonies do not like to be transplanted, so this method is less successful than bare root planting.
7. Apply mulch in cold climates, or leave the plant bed exposed for winter in milder regions.
8. Water deeply.  If standing water remains, you need to eliminate the ground conditions that allow it.
9. During periods without rain, water deeply once per week. 

Steps for Planting Woody Peonies:

1. Tree peonies are planted much the same as herbaceous peonies are, but they require a different planting depth.  Follow steps 1-4 for woody peonies.
2. Plant a tree tuber with 4”-5” of soil covering the graft (which is often marked by nurseries).
3. Continue with steps 6-9 for planting peonies. 

Growing/Pruning 

Follow these easy steps for a show-stopping display of flowers each spring! 

What You Will Need: 

• Pruning shears
• Stakes
• Coated wire 

Steps for Care and Maintenance: 

1. In the spring, add a 2” layer of mulch to deter weeds.
2. When plants are 2-3” tall, add a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10.
3. When the first buds appear, remove the side buds from each stem, leaving the terminal (end) bud in place.  This encourages show-stopping blooms.
4. When plants grow heavy with blooms, stake behind the plant and secure plants with loops of coated wire in a figure 8 position, with one loop circling the plant and the other the stake, allowing them to cross in the middle.
5. Remove fading blooms to prevent seed development.
6. Cut no more than ½ of the flowers for vases or display, and leave as much foliage on the plant as possible.  For young plants, remove no more than 1/3 of the flowers, as this process with reduce flowering for the next spring.
7. To winterize herbaceous peonies and protect against fungus, cut them back to 3” from the soil after a heavy frost.  Do not cut back tree peonies. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. Ants are attracted to the sweet natural secretions of peonies.  They do little, if any, harm to the plants themselves.
2. It may take years for peonies to bloom for the first time, especially if they were transplanted.
3. Established peonies tolerate drought conditions well.

A classic holiday decoration brought to the United State sby the first English settlers, holly continues to be a popular Christmas favorite. With beautiful foliage (though watch out for those needles!) and bright red berries, it naturally brings out the colors of the season. Many like to grow their own holly for use in winter decorating and it’s quite simple to do!

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type:

• Around 300 species of holly are found all around the world. Most grow in temperate and sub-tropical locations, though there are some that will grow in colder regions.
• Holly grows in many ways with some smaller plants, shrubs, and even large trees.
• Check the growth range of your specific plant as some can reach heights of 70 feet! (Though others only grow to six inches.)
• Here are some to consider:
• Ilex aquifolium –English Holly has bright green, glossy foliage adorned with brilliant berries. This is the holly that is most often desired for holiday decorations and is commonly replicated in pictures. It requires warmer areas and grows best up to zone 6.
• Ilex opaca – American Holly is similar to English Holly, with foliage and berries that are a little less brilliant. However, it is much hardier to colder regions.
• Ilex cornuta – The Burford Holly, otherwise known as Burfordii, grows as a shrub. The leaves are dark green in color and it produces large, red berries. While this shrub is hardy to colder regions, the leaves may be damaged.
• Ilex crenata – These Japanese Holly species are often used as landscaping rather than decorations. They produce black berries rather than red. They are much hardier to colder temperatures and can be pruned to specific shapes and sizes.
• While traditional holly is green with red berries, the Gold Coast variety has green foliage with bright yellow margins. This male plant is often grouped together with the female plant Argenteo Marginata. This popular plant produces green foliage with cream margins. Together they make a beautiful combination.
• Holly plants are dioecious, meaning there are both male and female plants. Only female plants will produce berries. In order for this to happen, there must be a male plant in close proximity (within 30 feet). Without a male plant present, your plant will not bear any fruit. If you don’t have space for several plants, consider placing a male and female plant together in a large pot.
• Most holly is only hardy to zone 6. There is a small handful that are hardy to zone 5 and only a few that are hardy in zone 4. Choose your plant’s growth requirements carefully to ensure they will grow well in your area.

Find a Suitable Place: 

• Most holly likes full sun, though most will tolerate light shade. Check the requirements for your specific variety.
• Avoid exposed areas where the plant will have to tolerate wind. 

Prepare the Soil: 

• Soil must be well-draining. Amend heavy soils with plenty of organic matter.
• Holly loves organic, acidic soil. To increase the acidity of the soil, there are several options.
• Ammonium sulfate will lower the pH immediately, however it also raises the nitrogen levels, and too much nitrogen reduces berry production.
• Add sphagnum peat to the soil.
• Coffee grounds, oak leaves and pine needles work more slowly, but they’re free!
•  For the best results, have your soil tested by a local extension office. This will inform you of the exact acidity levels in the soil so you will know how much to amend. 

Planting/Growing                               

What You Will Need:  

• Holly plants
• Holly Tone fertilizer
• Small shovel
• Organic compost/mulch
• Prepared soil
• Water 

Steps for Planting Holly: 

1. Begin by preparing the soil according to the instructions above.
2. Dig a hole that is approximately twice as large as the root ball of the holly plant.
3. Carefully remove the plant from its original container. Be careful not to disturb the roots.
4. Place the root ball into the hole, keeping it at the same depth as it was in the original container.
5. Fill in with removed soil and pat to firm.
6. Water thoroughly immediately after planting.
7. Adding mulch around the base of the plant will help to retain moisture and keep weeds away.
8. Fertilize regularly with Holly Tone following the guidelines on the package.
9. Continue to water regularly to moisten the soil when it becomes dry, but never water so much that the ground becomes soggy. Once holly is established, it can tolerate a certain level of drought, so be careful not to overwater.
10. Weed the area regularly so your plants can get the maximum nutrients and water from the soil.
11. Prune each spring to keep the plant shapely and under control. 

Starting Holly from Seeds 

1. In order for holly seeds to germinate, you must use a process called stratification.
2. Place the leaves between several layers of soil and leaves.
3. Alternate the temperature between freezing and thawing several times (while always keeping the temperature cool).
4. This freezing/thawing process breaks the coating on the seed and allows it to grow.
5. Plant the seeds directly into the soil in the spring. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. If you must transplant your holly, it is best to do it late winter or early spring while the plant is dormant. Carefully remove the entire root ball and replant in the desired location.
2. Many growers like to decorate with holly for the holidays. Be cautious when taking cuttings as cutting too much off of the plant can harm the plant. If you want to include lots of fresh holly in your decorating, simply grow several plants.
3. Low berry production can be caused by high nitrogen levels in the soil, poor pollination, or spring frosts damaging the flower buds.
4. Animals love to feast on the berries and foliage. You may need to add protection to keep rabbits, deer, squirrels, birds and other hungry critters away.
5. Holly also grows well in large containers. Often, nurseries will sell two plants (one male and one female) together in a large 5-gallon container.

Sunflowers are fun and easy to grow, and have been a favorite of gardeners for several reasons.  Not only are they hardy and pest resistant, as their name suggests, they are a sunny, cheerful flower.  Children especially love to grow them because of their typical height—it is a thrill to plant something as small as a seed and watch it grow into a friendly eight foot giant!  And aside from their towering beauty, sunflowers also provide us with a delicious and nutritious snack!  The sunflower seeds of most varieties can be roasted and enjoyed by young and old alike.  Sunflowers will also attract some beautiful birds to your garden (although they may steal away some of your yummy seeds) and some varieties attract butterflies as well.  Although most of us are familiar with the standard sunflower with its pretty yellow petals and dark center, sunflowers come in an assortment of colors, designs and heights.  They also are available as perennials as well as annuals, so there is sure to be a sunflower out there to suit every taste.

 Before You Plant

 Choose the Right Type:

Sunflowers come in many varieties, some as tall as 8 feet, some much shorter.  There are even newer varieties designed to be pollen free, thus making a perfect cutting flower to bring into the house for decoration.  Regardless of the variety you choose, the methods of growing and caring for your sunflowers will be the same.  Consequently, the variety you choose is more a matter of personal taste than it is necessity. Aside from the classic giant sunflower that carries a single large bloom with bright yellow petals and a large dark center, here are some varieties you may want to consider.  Keep in mind that, while annuals bloom the season that you plant them, if you choose a perennial variety, it may take 2 or 3 years to bloom initially.

• Velvet Queen:  Plants grow 4 to 6 feet in height, mature in about 100 days, and produce multiple boom son numerous side branches.  The seeds are smaller and great for birds, but because of their small size, they’re not great for roasting and eating.
• Red Sun:  Unique sunflower that produces dark orange/red blooms with a tinge of yellow around its brown center.  This variety usually grows 5 to 6 feet in about 90 days and produces multiple blooms of about 5 or 6 inches.
• Ring of Fire:  This variety grows to about 4 or 5 feet in about 100 days, and produces a bloom with bi-colored petals, dark red around a brown center and golden yellow around the tips.
• Maximillian:  This variety is a perennial that grows to 4 to 7 feet tall and produces multiple sunny yellow 2 to 3 inch blooms all summer long.  It is a favorite of birds and butterflies, is heat and drought resistant and is great for cutting
• Tithonia Torch:  This is a shorter variety, growing about 2 to 5 feet in height in about 90 days, and produces Dahlia-like flowers in orange, yellow and bright red.

Find a Suitable Location:

• Sunflowers in general are hardy plants that are heat and drought tolerant, and do well in all zones, so long as they are planted after the danger of hard freeze has passed for your zone.
• As the name suggests, Sunflowers love the sun and do best in areas that provide full sunlight (at least 6 hours) every day.
• While some varieties do well even in poor soil, for the most part, sunflowers do best in average to rich soil.
• Avoid planting your sunflowers in sandy or loose soil as they can become easily uprooted.
• Keep in mind that, depending upon the variety you choose, sunflowers require adequate space to grow, and overcrowding will diminish the beauty and health of your sunflowers.
• Also remember that sunflower blooms will generally face toward the East, which may be a consideration to you when choosing the perfect spot for your garden.
• Since sunflowers grow so tall, you may not want to place them around other plants that require sunlight since the sunflower may block the sunlight, providing too much shade.
• Keep in mind that since sunflowers generally grow tall, if you’re using them in a garden with other flowers, you may want to use them as a background border, i.e. behind other flowers, so as not to block shorter flowers from view.

Prepare the Soil:

• Soil should be prepared after the last danger of frost has passed.
• Sunflowers can be started indoors, then once seedlings have established, they can be easily transplanted into your garden.
• When sowing your seeds directly into your garden, late spring planting is best and will generally produce sunflowers midsummer.
• Since sunflowers do best in richer soil, work your compost or fertilizer into your planting area before sowing your seeds.

With over 11 million of these plants grown and sold each spring, there’s a good chance you have been graced by it’s presence around the Easter season. Many people enjoy the beauty of these blooms while they last and then discard it when the flowers fade away. However, Easter Lilies are perennials that are grown from bulbs and will continue to bloom year after year if replanted. Enjoy these beautiful, trumpeting flowers for many years with a few simple steps.

Before You Plant

Choosing an Easter Lily Plant:

Most plants are purchased from a nursery or greenhouse. There are several things to watch for when choosing your lily:

• While the plants with trumpeting blooms are the most tempting, they won’t last as long. Choose a plant with blooms that have not yet opened or are just beginning to open.
• The plant should be about twice as tall as the pot it is in. If it is taller, it is probably outgrowing the pot and may be stressed.
• Leaves should be full all the way down the stem to the top of the soil. Look for foliage with a healthy, green color.
• Dark spots, wilting and crinkling as signs of disease and should be avoided.
• Any eggs, chew marks or webbing indicates the presence of insects and should also be avoided.

If you are new to planting lilies, there are several varieties that are easier for beginners. Consider coral lily, madonna lily, regal lily, tiger lily, showy lily, Olympic hybrids, Aurelian hybrids, and mid-century hybrids varieties for your first plants.

Find a Suitable Place:

• An area with full sun is best.
• An area that drains well is essential to successful lily growing. This can be achieved by raising the bed where you are planting several inches, using a well-drained potting mix and/or a mix with equal parts of soil/peat moss/perlite.

Prepare the Soil: 

• Work the soil very well by tilling it and remove all weeds.
• Good quality soil is important. Mix in organic matter as needed prior to planting.
• Ideally, the soil pH should be neutral, between 6.5 to 7.0. Your local cooperative extension office can test your soil for you, or you can buy pH test kits from hardware and home improvement stores.

Keeping Easter Lilies Indoors

Keep your Easter Lily blooming for as long as possible with these simple steps.

What You Will Need: 

• Easter Lily plant
• Tweezers
• Water
• Small dish to place under pot

Steps for Preserving Your Plant:

Choose a location that allows the plant to receive bright, indirect sunlight.

1. Remove any decorative foil cover from the pot and place the plant on the small dish to avoid any water leaking out onto furniture, etc.
2. Use the tweezers to remove the yellow anther from the center of the flower. The pollen on the anther can stain as it falls off of the flower, so removing it not only preserves the flower, it also prevents staining.
3. Avoid letting the temperature get too warm. Keep the plant away from appliances, heaters, etc. Temperatures of 60-65° Fahrenheit are ideal during the day and can be even cooler at night. The cooler the temperatures, the longer the blooms will last.
4. Water when the soil is dry to the touch. The soil should not be allowed to dry out or to have standing water as both are damaging to the plant.
5. Remove blooms as they begin to wither and die.
6. When the blooms are gone remove the seed pods and leave the stem and leaves – do NOT throw it away! Keep it in a place that receives indirect sunlight and continue to water it until the weather warms up enough to transplant it to the garden.
7. The more foliage that the plant has, the better the blooms will be the following year. Cut away only the dead parts of the plant as they begin to turn brown.
8. Lilies are spring/summer plants and will naturally begin to die as summer ends.

Transplanting Potted Plants

Easter lilies are grown from bulbs which will continue to grow year after year. By transplanting your lily plant outdoors, you’ll be able to enjoy the blooms for many years to come. If you’re lucky, you may even get a second blooming since they naturally bloom in the summer.

What You Will Need:  

• Easter Lily plants
• Small shovel
• Prepared soil
• Mulch
• Blood meal or bulb fertilizer

Steps for Transplanting Lily Plants: 

1. Keep your lily plant indoors until the danger of frost has passed. When the weather begins to warm, you can transplant your lily outdoors.
2. Begin by digging a hole that is large enough to place the bulb at the same depth it was in the container. Allow enough room to spread the roots out as well.
3. Remove the plant from the container and loosen the soil around the roots and bulb.
4. Spread the roots and gently place the bulb into the hole. Ideally, it should be about 3 inches below the soil line.
5. Carefully fill in around the roots and bulb with the removed soil, ensuring there are no gaps.
6. Space any additional plants 12-18 inches apart.
7. Water the plants thoroughly upon completion of planting.
8. Add several inches of mulch around the base of the plant to retain moisture, control weeds and keep the roots cool.
9. As the plant continues to die back, cut it back to green sections. This allows for new growth to emerge. If you are lucky, you may get a second blooming in the summer, but most likely you will have to wait until next year.
10. In the fall as the plant stem turns brown, cut it back all the way to the soil line.
11. After you have cut it back completely, sprinkle some blood meal or bulb fertilizer on the top of the area where you have planted the bulb. Work it gently into the soil, being careful not to disturb the bulb or roots.
12. Cover with a good layer of mulch for protection from the winter. Remove this mulch in the spring to allow the plant to grow again.

Planting Bulbs

What You Will Need: 

• Lily bulbs
• Blood meal or bulb fertilizer
• Small shovel or spade
• Prepared soil

 Steps for Planting Bulbs: 

1. The autumn months of September, October or November offer the best timing for planting new bulbs.
2. Bulbs can be purchased from garden supply stores or if you have an established plant, you can use division to propagate new plants. This is done by digging up existing bulbs in the fall and separating the smaller bulbs into individual bulbs to be replanted. Smaller bulbs may take slightly longer to grow and become established so they can develop flowers, so be patient.
3. Once you have your bulbs, begin by loosening the dirt to a depth of about ten inches.
4. Moisten the soil inside of the hole to promote immediate root growth.
5. Place the bulb into the hole at a depth of three inches so that the roots are on the bottom and the pointed end is facing up.
6. If there are any extended roots, spread them out onto the soil inside of the hole.
7. Fill in around the roots and bulb with removed soil patting gently to remove any air pockets.
8. Add soil to build a three inch mound of dirt above ground level.
9. Place bulbs 10-12 inches apart. Plant closer together for groups of flowers, but avoid overcrowding.
10. Water the bulbs immediately and thoroughly.
11. After you have cut it back completely, sprinkle some blood meal or bulb fertilizer on the top of the area where you have planted the bulb. Work it gently into the soil, being careful not to disturb the bulb or roots.
12. Cover with a good layer of mulch for protection from the winter. Remove this mulch in the spring to allow the plant to grow.

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. Avoid keeping this plant in your home if you have pets as it is highly toxic to cats.
2. Easter lilies are forced to bloom at Easter time by garden stores. However, they’re normal bloom time is late spring, early summer.
3. Don’t be disappointed if your flower does not bloom the following year. Sometimes it takes two years for the plants to recover from being forced to bloom and return to a normal cycle.
4. In place of mulch around the plants, a shallow ground cover such as complementary annuals can be planted to provide the same protection with added beauty.
5. Lilies are great for floral arrangements as well. When removing flowers, be careful not to cut too much of the stem as it can weaken the bulb. A general rule of thumb is no more than one-third of the length of the stem.
6. Lilies are susceptible to frost. If new shoots arrive before the threat of frost has passed, cover them at night for protection.

The rose is the undisputed queen of the garden. Amazingly delicate and with an unmatched beauty, roses are surprisingly easy to grow under the right conditions. In fact, a simple patch of sunlight is all you need to coax one of these stunning flowers from a dainty bud to an exquisite bloom. Best of all, with more than 7,000 varieties of roses worldwide, you are sure to find one just right for your own garden in almost any climate!

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type of Rose:

• Hybrid Tea Roses are the most familiar plants. They grow in bush form, with flowers appearing at the ends of long, straight stems. Unattended, these bushes can grow to several feet in diameter and produce hundreds of full, florist-quality blooms.
• Floribunda or Climbing Roses are perfectly partnered with trellises and fencing. With proper support, they can grow more than 12 feet in a single season. They are characterized by a single row of petals, with flowers occurring in clusters.
• Miniature Roses feature tiny, perfect blooms on tightly formed bushes, usually only one to three feet in size. They are great additions to spaces where the delicate beauty of a rose is desired but there’s simply not enough room for the rambling, sometimes unruly vine or bush types.

Find a Suitable Place:

• Roses prefer sunny, well drained beds. Choose an area with at least four hours of direct sun each day. Most varieties grow well in USDA zones 4-9, which includes all but the northern- and southernmost extremities of the US, although hardy varieties for other regions can be found at local nurseries.
• Avoid areas with standing water. Roses love moisture, but will quickly die if they are forced to remain wet. Amend heavy soils with a sandy mixture to improve drainage, or simply create a raised bed for your roses.
• If soil is too dry, roses will not prosper. Amend the soil with organic matter such as peat, compost, or manure. Sandy soils may require the addition of topsoil to achieve optimum conditions.

Prepare the soil:

• To achieve a rich, dark soil with proper drainage, add peat, compost, loam, and manure to less than ideal soils. Work the organic matter into the soil until you have strong, earthy topsoil that holds moisture without becoming bogged down. If soil is too wet, add sand or raise the bed to create natural drainage.
• Most roses should be planted in spring or fall. Either time allows the roots to establish before the shock of extreme weather conditions related to hot summers and cold winters, although spring is more forgiving than winter in most cases. For less than optimal planting times, consider a potted plant instead of a bare root rose.

Container roses are more adaptive to the transplant process, as there is less disruption to the root system and therefore less shock to the plant.

Planting/Growing Roses

What You Will Need:

• Roses
• Small shovel
• Prepared soil
• Garden clippers
• Fertilizer made for roses

Steps for Planting Bare Root Roses:

1. Select a location with proper soil conditions and plenty of sunshine.
2. Trim all bruised, broken, or otherwise damaged branches or roots from the plant.
3. Cut the top growth back to 6″-8″ from the root ball.
4. Dig holes which are large enough for the roots without bending or breaking them. Make the hole a full 6″ deeper than the proper planting depth.
5. Add a bit of sand, small rocks, or pebbles to the bottom of the hole to help with drainage.
6. Combine approximately one tablespoon of rose fertilizer with loose soil before mounding the mixture at the bottom of the hole, creating a sloped surface to fully support the natural shape of the roots.
7. Once the rose has been positioned so that the roots will be below ground and the top growth is above ground level, begin to replace the soil around the plant, stopping to pack it gently but firmly several times as you work.
8. Mulch the plant to protect against weeds and hold in moisture.
9. Water roses in the morning, and only when the dirt feels dry two inches below the surface of the ground. Over watering will kill the rose, no matter how carefully you prepared the soil and the drainage. Water deeply to encourage root growth, monitoring the frequency as suggested. One good watering is worth more to the health of your plant than several smaller ones.

Steps for Planting Potted Roses:

1. Container roses can be planted nearly any time of the year, so long as the ground is not frozen. Ideally, plant in the spring or fall.
2. Dig a hole that is two times larger than the pot the rose is in.
3. Backfill the bottom with enough loose soil so that when you place the rose in the hole, the level of the dirt in the pot matches that of the ground.
4. Carefully remove the rose and root ball from the container. Do not jerk on the plant or lift it by the trunk.
5. Very carefully, loosen the dirt on the root ball, gently freeing some of the material.
6. Place the rose in the hole, firmly patting the remaining dirt around the plant.
7. Follow steps 8-9 to complete the planting process.

Growing/Pruning Roses

Follow these easy steps for a show-stopping display of blooms from early spring through frost!

What You Will Need:

• Pruning shears
• Stakes
• Coated wire
• Trellis or fence
• Rose food

Steps for Care and Maintenance:

1. Feed roses 3-6 times a year, or as directed on the package, beginning with a feeding in the spring as the plant begins growth. Remove mulch and work plant food into the soil around the plant, or use a liquid rose food that will drain into the soil.
2. Keep roses mulched to retain moisture and deter weeds.
3. Always water roses in the morning and at ground level. Avoid spraying the leaves with water, as the sun can “burn” them easily, causing damage to the plant.
4. Use pruning shears to removed dead blooms, clip damaged branches, or remove all but one bud from a single stem to increase your chances of growing one truly amazing rose.
5. Once climbing roses take off, be sure to support them with a trellis or fence. Particularly heavy canes may need to be gently tied to the vertical surface for additional support, which is almost surely needed once they are laden with blooms.
6. Large bush-type roses may also need to be staked. Use a sturdy stake and coated wire to firmly hold thick branches in place.
7. Use pruning shears to trim out weaker branches where they contact others for a healthier plant.
8. Each spring, cut roses back, leaving 6″-8″ canes. Damaged canes should be cut off cleanly.
9. Winterize roses by mulching heavily with peat or straw.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Always consult the tag or planting and care directions included with your rose before planting. There are literally thousands of varieties of roses, and each one may require a certain detail of care that was not mentioned here.
• Removing dead blooms, or deadheading, encourages new growth and a healthy plant.
• Properly space plants, using information on the tag. Crowded roses are more likely to become damaged or diseased.

Daffodils are beloved for many reasons, but one of the best is that they send promise of warm weather to come. Long before winter’s chill has melted away, daffodils burst from the earth, filling the garden with the sweet scent of spring in a wave of beautiful light. Not only are daffodils exceptionally easy to grow, they are resistant to garden pests and stunning when cut and displayed in vases, where they’ll last for days. To welcome these little beauties to your own garden in the spring, here’s what you need to know.

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Daffodil Bulbs:

• Daffodils are grown from bulbs. There are dozens of varieties, with hybrids numbering into the thousands.
• Look for large bulbs for big blooms in the spring. If cost is a concern, you can buy dozens of the smaller bulbs rather inexpensively, but be aware that they may not all bloom the first season.
• Bulbs should feel heavy for their size. Light or hollow feeling bulbs may have been the victim of pests or disease and are not likely to grow at all.

Find a Suitable Place:

• Daffodils are hardy in USDA zones 3-8, which covers much of the continental United States. Only the southernmost portions of the U.S. may prove to be too warm for this well-loved harbinger of spring.
• Daffodils prefer full sun to part shade. Keep in mind that they appear long before leaves do, so your deciduous trees will not pose a shade problem for daffodils.
• Plant in well-drained soil, as bulbs will rot in soggy conditions.
• Daffodils like slightly acidic soils with low pH (below 7.0) Test kits are available at garden centers, or visit your local cooperative extension office for help.

Prepare the soil:

• If your soil is wet, add sand or build the ground up before planting. Bulbs tend to rot in perpetually wet conditions. Alternatively, build a raised bed.
• To add acidity to your soil, turn in a bit of garden sulfur.
• Sprinkle bulb booster and work it lightly into the soil, or use it when planting.

Planting/Growing Daffodils

What You Will Need:

• Daffodils
• Garden trowel
• Prepared soil
• Bulb booster

Steps for Planting Daffodils:

1. Daffodils should be planted in the fall before the ground freezes. If possible, it’s best to allow time for the roots to establish before the first freeze.
2. Scatter the daffodils to the position you’d like to plant them. Ideally, you should allow 3-6″ between bulbs.
3. Dig a hole that is three times deeper than the height of the bulb (6-8″).
4. Sprinkle bulb booster at the bottom of the hole.
5. Place the bulb in the hole, making sure that the pointy side is up.
6. Cover the bulb with dirt, patting the surface firmly.

Growing/Pruning Daffodils

Daffodils require very little care. Here’s what you need to know to keep them looking their best.

What You Will Need:

• Pruning shears
• Garden trowel

Steps for Care and Maintenance:

1. Once daffodils begin to bloom, remove dead and fading flowers. Do not remove foliage.
2. Allow foliage to turn completely yellow before removing it. This allows bulbs to restore nutrients and energy for a better show the following spring.
3. To remove leaves, snip them off at ground level with pruning shears.
4. Many gardeners suggest digging up bulbs at the end of the season. Daffodils are particularly hardy and resistant to rodents (squirrels and deer don’t like them) so you can skip this step without consequence in most cases. If you prefer to dig your bulbs up for the summer, do so carefully. An inadvertent run-in with the sharp edge of a trowel can damage the bulb. It’s best to dig them before you remove the foliage so it’s easier to locate the bulbs. Store bulbs in a cool, dry place until it’s time to replant in the fall.

Additional Tips and Advice

• For an uplifting burst of spring in the dead of winter, you can “force” bulbs to grow early and daffodils are easy candidates. Plant the bulb in a small pot or container in early fall, and then treat the container to a cold winter by storing it at 35 to 48 degrees in darkness for 12-14 weeks, watering as needed. Once shoots begin to appear, bring the pot to a sunny, warm location and wait for the show to begin!
• Daffodils are also known as Narcissi – the two words are interchangeable.
• The ideal time to plant daffodils is when trees begin to lose their leaves.
• Divide heavy clumps of daffodils by digging them up and breaking the bulbs apart gently.