Photo by Kara Reuter

Snake plants received their name from the shape of their leaves, and are also called Mother-in-Law Tongues due to their sharpness. They can be successfully grown by even those with the blackest of thumbs. The striking foliage shoots straight up for several feet if allowed to grow to maximum heights. Whether looking for a touch of green for your home or office, this plant brighten up the room and can help clean the air too!

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type:

There are over 30 varieties of snake plants available. Though they each have the same general shape, the variegated foliage with silvery-white or yellow stripes on the leaf margins give them each a unique look.

Popular varieties to look for include:

• Goldiana
• Compacta
• Silbersee
• Hahnii
• Laurentii
• Silver Hahnii

Find a Suitable Place:

• Snake plants will grow just about anywhere. They can grow fine with very little light, as long as they are not in complete darkness, but they prefer low to moderate indirect light. Keep them away from direct sunlight as it will damage their leaves.
• Warmer temperatures are ideal during the daytime, between 68° and 85° Fahrenheit. Nighttime temperatures can be slightly lower, between 58° to 75° Fahrenheit.

Prepare the Soil: 

• Snake plants do not require special soil. Any well-draining potting mix that allows the soil to remain moist will work well for growing these plants indoors. 

Planting/Growing                               

What You Will Need:  

• Snake plants
• Potting Soil
• Small shovel
• Fertilizer
• Room temperature water 

Steps for Growing Snake Plants: 

1. Snake plants are a common houseplant that can be purchased from any home/garden center or nursery. They are available in smaller sizes (3 inches) all the way up to larger plants (14 inches). Most plants come in containers that allow for adequate growth and do not need to be transplanted. However, if your plant is purchased in a small, starter container and needs to be moved to a larger container, it’s easy to do.
2. Begin by removing the plant from the original container.
3. Slightly loosen any tightly-bound sections of the roots and place into a larger container filled with potting soil. Try to keep the plant at the same depth as it was in the original container.
4. Fill in with additional potting soil until the container is filled to one inch from the top and pat gently to firm.
5. Water thoroughly after the initial transplant and place in its permanent location.
6. Allow the soil become slightly dry between waterings. Typically, you will only need to water these plants every 7-10 days. Even the most neglected plants seem to hang on and grow just fine.
7. The foliage will show if it is receiving enough water. Too little water – the leaves will start to wrinkle or bend over. Too much water and the leaves will start to droop. Simply adjust the amount of water and it should return to normal. If leaves are too damaged, simply cut them off.
8. Very little fertilizer is necessary for these plants to grow. If you choose to fertilize, use a mild fertilizer that has been diluted. Fertilize according to the instructions on the lable, but be cautious not to over-fertilize.

Propagation of New Plants 

By Division: 

1. Snake plants can be divided at any time during the year.
2. Remove the plant from the container and separate it into sections. Pull it apart if possible, or you may have to cut it apart. Be sure to keep roots and leaves in each section.
3. Plant each section in a fresh pot that is large enough to support new growth. Try to plant it at the same depth it was in the original container.
4. Water well immediately after planting and care for the same as you would an established plant (except for the fertilizer – do not fertilize for at least three months). 

With Cuttings: 

1. New plants can easily be propagated with cuttings year round.
2. Begin by removing a leaf from the plant.
3. Place the end of the leaf into a glass of water or a small pot filled with fresh soil. Keep it here until roots begin to grow.
4. If rooted in water, transplant to a pot filled with potting soil after the roots are established. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. Snake plants do produce blooms, but they do not offer the pleasant smell one might expect. Be cautious not to stay too close to these pungent flowers as many find the smell nauseating.
2. If the leaves grow too tall, simply cut them back to the desired height.
3. Though beautiful, all parts of this plant are poisonous if ingested, so it’s best for homes without children or pets.
4. Did you know? The strong fibers of the leaves were once used to make bow strings.

Petunias are beautiful, carefree flowers that seem to fill a space with laughter, maturing into tumbling masses of blooms that show from spring to frost, and they happily adapt to containers for a splash of color nearly anywhere.  Easily one of the most popular annuals, they fill the air with a sweet scent that radiates from cascading streams of flowers.  Best of all, petunias are notoriously easy to grow.  In fact, all you need is a patch of dirt and, with even meager exposure to sun, petunias will put on an enthusiastic show!  

Before You Plant 

Choose the Right Type: 

• Grandiflora petunias produce large, showy flowers.  With a penchant towards quality, not quantity, these petunias often display blooms that are 3-4” or larger in diameter, with single or double ruffled flowers.  Cascading varieties are dramatic additions to hanging baskets, although not as hardy to wind and weather damage as Multiflora varieties.  Bush-style plants mature to 12-15” in height.
• Multiflora petunias produce smaller flowers, but with huge quantities of blooms at any given time, the result is a garden that is positively teeming with color.  These dainty flowers are usually single bloom, although double bloom varieties are available.
• Milliflora Petunias are considered great for borders or edging.  Tiny flowers measure just one to 1.5” inches in diameter, but they add big color to containers and flower beds.
• Groundcover, or “spreading” petunias, are enchanting additions to hanging baskets, where they’ll frequently grow to 2-3’ or longer in trails bursting with blooms.  These varieties quickly fill flower beds and walls, thriving in full sun. 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• Petunias adore full sun and will put on quite a show when planted there, but they will even grow in light shade, although with fewer flowers.  For best results, find a spot with 5-6 hours of sun exposure each day.
• Avoid standing water.  Petunias do not require exceptional soil in order to prosper, but it must drain well.  Mix in sand or raise the bed in order to promote drainage.
• Wait until danger of frost has passed before spring planting.  Petunias will grow in nearly any area as long as the soil has reached a temperature of approximately 60 degrees, and will continue to bloom until frost. 

Prepare the Soil: 

• While petunias are not fussy and do not require excellent soil, plants are healthier and better producers if you mix organic material into the bed.  Turn compost, manure, or peat moss into the top several inches of the soil to improve the bed.
• Before planting, fertilize with 10-10-10 at a rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet.
• If soil is wet or slow to drain, mix in sand and/or raise the bed to allow for better drainage. 

Planting/Growing 

What You Will Need:  

• Petunia seeds (or plants)
• Seed starter kit
• Potting soil
• Garden trowel
• 20-20-20 fertilizer
• Small shovel
• Prepared beds 

Steps for Starting Seeds:

1. Start seeds approximately 6 weeks before the usual planting time for your region (or after the last frost).
2. Follow the directions on the seed starter kit to get your petunias off to a healthy start.
3. Water seeds as needed to prevent soil from drying out.
4. After seedlings sprout, thin plants to the strongest one or two plants per hole.
5. Fertilize every two weeks with 20-20-20, following the manufacturer’s directions.
6. On warm days, place the seedling tray outdoors, uncovered, for an hour or two at a time, gradually increasing exposure time to “harden” the plants ahead of transplanting.
7. Once the outside soil temperature has reached 60 degrees and all danger of frost has passed, it’s time to put them in the garden!  

Steps for Transplanting to the Garden:

1. Whether you grew your own seedlings or purchased potted petunias, the process of planting them in the garden is the same.  Start by finding a sunny, well-drained spot.
2. Plan to space plants approximately 12” apart, with Milliflora varieties somewhat closer together and allowing slightly more space for groundcover petunias.
3. Dig a hole that is slightly larger than the plant itself so that the surrounding soil will be loose and favorable for root growth.
4. Backfill the hole so that the level of the ground will be equal to that of the dirt with the plant.
5. Gently fill the remainder of the space with dirt, patting it firmly and gently to the ground.
6. Water thoroughly at the time of planting to prevent wilting.
7. Continue to fertilize with 20-20-20 as directed on the label.
8. Protect new plants from wind, heavy rain, or extreme temperatures for at least two weeks following transplant. 

Growing/Pruning 

Petunias require very little maintenance.  These easy steps will keep them at their show-stopping best! 

What You Will Need: 

• 5-10-5 or 10-10-10 fertilizer
• water 

Steps for Care and Maintenance: 

1. Mulch plants to help retain moisture and ward off weeds.
2. Fertilize plants at least once during the summer, but avoid over fertilizing which may result in excessive green growth with little flowering.
3. Allow top layers of soil to dry before watering plants.  Excess moisture can cause mold, mildew, and disease in the plants.
4. Remove dead or fading blooms to encourage new growth. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. Yellow foliage may indicate a lack of iron or nitrogen in the plant.  The right fertilizer will correct this problem.
2. Plant petunias on a cloudy day to help them adjust more easily to their outdoor location.
3. If you cut petunias for display, be sure to remove all leaves that may become submerged in water.  Wet leaves decay rapidly, ruining your arrangement.

Pumpkins are favorites of gardeners all over the world — literally!  You’ll find them growing on every continent exceptAntarctica, their bright orange exteriors, an unmistakable sign of fall.  From tiny miniatures to the giants of the field, there’s nothing more satisfying than harvesting your own crop of pumpkins!  Here’s how you can bring a splash of color to your garden this fall.  

Before You Plant 

Choose the Right Type: 

• Pumpkin pie types (Cucurbita Moshata, which also includes other squash varieties) are smaller and sweeter than their cousins, the jack-o-lanterns.  These are great for cooking but slightly more difficult to carve due to their small size and thick flesh.
• Carving pumpkins (Cucurbita Pepo) are the so-called jack-o-lanterns of the pumpkin patch.  You can choose seeds that result in perfectly even, round pumpkins or opt instead for a variety that produces an interesting variety of ovals, spheres, knobby textures, and plenty of other fodder for creative carving.
• Giant pumpkins (Cucurbita Maxima) are the variety from which those show-stopping prize winners are grown.  Carefully tended, these pumpkins regularly grow to 600 pounds or more, with the world record nearing 1500 pounds for a single one of these monsters. 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• The traditional pumpkin patch takes up quite a bit of space, so gardeners with less room to grow will be happy to know that some varieties of pumpkins can even be grown in containers!  Consult the seed packet to determine how much space you’ll need in the garden, as this varies quite a bit from one variety to the next. 
• Pumpkins require moist soil.  Standing water will quickly rot the plant or the pumpkin itself, so proper drainage is just as important as good moisture.
• These fast-growing, hungry vines need a steady flow of nutrients.  Start with rich, organic soil and be prepared to fertilize frequently.
• Pumpkins thrive in full sunlight, so for the best possible crop, pick a sunny location for your pumpkin patch.
• Ideally, do not plant pumpkins where they were planted the year before.  If you must use the same spot, use extra care when fertilizing.  They can really sap the soil of nutrients, leaving little for the next year’s crop. 

Prepare the Soil: 

• It is beneficial to begin the soil amendment process well before planting time.  If that’s not possible, make sure that any compost or manure that you add to your soil has had time to properly decompose.  Immature compost can harm or kill your plant.
• After adding organic materials (compost, manure, peat, etc), turn the ground over several times so that it mixes in well. 
• If your soil is sandy, add topsoil.  Your site needs to be able to retain moisture for your pumpkins to grow well.  For heavy clay soil, you may need to add some sand.
• Before planting, apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer.
• Keep the area free from weeds, which compete for nutrients.
• Most pumpkin growers plant pumpkins on small mounds, or hills.  This protects the tender young vines from an excess of water from heavy spring or torrential summer rains, and also allows for better heating of the soil. 

Planting/Growing 

What You Will Need:  

• Pumpkin seeds
• Small shovel
• Prepared soil
• High-nitrogen liquid fertilizer 

Steps for Planting Pumpkins: 

1. The precise planting time will vary for your area, but it can easily be found on the seed pack.  Pumpkin maturity time depends on the variety of pumpkin and your climate conditions.  Most range from 90-160 days.
2. In general, you’ll want to sow 3-5 seeds per mound.  Follow the directions on your seed pack for your specific variety of pumpkin.  Adhere to the directions for the spacing between mounds.  It may look like a lot of empty space, but voracious pumpkins can grow at an astounding rate of 6” per day or more and that space will soon be lost in a tangle of vines and leaves.
3. Cover with the recommended amount of dirt and pat the mound firmly.
4. Water and fertilize the newly planted seeds.
5. After 2-3 days, water again if there has not been rain.  The object is to keep the soil moist without drowning the seeds.
6. When pumpkins sprout, thin to the one or two healthiest seedlings.  The stronger seedlings will be taller, thicker, and will have more leaves than their counterparts.
7. Water pumpkin plants in the morning and at the base of the plant.  Darkness and moisture on the leaves may lead to mildew.
8. Fertilize every two weeks, following the directions on the fertilizer.
9. When pumpkins are bright orange (assuming they are an orange variety) they are ready to pick.  Cut the stem carefully, and never pick pumpkins up by the stem, as it may not be able to support the weight of the pumpkin. 

How to Grow Giant Pumpkins: 

1. There are a few good varieties of mammoth pumpkins available, but if you’re going for a world record, the Atlantic Giant has been the only variety to hold the title since 1979.
2. When you prepare the soil, adjust for a pH between 6.5 and 6.8.  Garden centers have pH test kits.  Sulfur lowers pH, while lime raises it.
3. Start seeds indoors to get a head start on the growing season.
4. Protect seedlings from wind and frost.  Build a temporary shelter around the plant and cover with clear plastic sheeting.  Take extra care to keep the soil moist – rain may not be able to reach your plant under protection, and the warmer soil will dry out more quickly. 
5. Hand pollinate the flowers.  Female flowers will have tiny pumpkins attached.  Locate a male flower (sans pumpkin) and gently peel the petals back, touching the center pieces to those of the female flower.
6. If the vine has more than one pumpkin, choose the largest and healthiest and cull the others.
7. Once pumpkins are established, fertilize plants with 20-20-20 as often as directed. 

Growing/Pruning 

These simple steps will help your pumpkin crop along. 

What You Will Need: 

• Pruning shears
• 20-20-20 fertilizer 

Steps for Care and Maintenance: 

1. If your desire is quality, not quantity, remove all but one or two pumpkins from each vine.  This allows the plant to provide optimum nutrients and care to these fruits.
2. To keep your patch from become unruly, use pruning shears to trim each vine at a distance of 10-12’ past the end of the pumpkin.
3. Water regularly at the base of the plant, keeping the soil moist.
4. Fertilize with 20-20-20 as directed on the container.
5. Pick pumpkins when they mature so that the plant can continue produce more fruit. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. If you have a short growing season, you can start pumpkins indoors.  A seed starter kit will come with full instructions explaining how to successfully start your pumpkins.
2. Plant miniature pumpkins in containers if you don’t have much room.  You’ll have to be particularly careful to keep them well fertilized.
3. Pumpkin vines set down secondary roots, so if possible, amend or fertilize the soil under the vines as they grow.
4. Because pumpkins set down roots as they grow, it’s best not to move a wayward vine.  If it ventures into your yard, simply steer the mower around it until the end of the season.
5. Pumpkins don’t have to be orange!  Yellow and even ghostly white varieties are popular and just as easy to grow.

Tea is a popular beverage both for enjoyment as well as its medicinal properties. Green, white, oolong and black teas are all harvested from the same tea shrub, Camellia sinesis, which is very easy to grow. Here’s how to make the most out of your tea shrub and reap the benefits with the phenomenal taste of fresh tea. 

Preparing to Plant 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• Tea shrubs grow well up to the zone 8 hardiness zone and prefer humid climates.
• Seedlings and young plants should be planted in the shade and then transferred to an area with full sun when they mature.
• If you don’t have an area outside, or if the temperature is too cold, tea shrubs can also be grown as indoor plants.
• The mature tea shrub can reach heights of 6-10 feet if left untrimmed. 

Preparing the Soil: 

• Camilla sinensis prefer acidic, sandy soil that is well drained.  If you have less than ideal planting conditions amend the soil by adding in missing components.  If you need to adjust the pH, there are fertilizers available for nearly any soil situation.
• If you are planting your tea in a container, mix sphagnum moss in with the potting soil. 

Planting 

What You Will Need: 

• Mulch
• Fertilizer
• Garden trowel
• Small shovel
• Tea shrub, cuttings or seeds
• Water
• Plenty of patience 

How to Plant: 

1. Once you have found the best location for your shrub and prepared the soil, you are ready to plant.
2. You can start your tea shrub from seeds, but many find it easier to use cuttings or buy a shrub from a nursery.
3. Begin by digging the hole in the sandy soil. The size of the hole needed will vary depending on the size of the shrub you are planting. You will want the hole to be deep enough to completely submerge the roots along with a couple inches of the stem/trunk.
4. Add a small amount of water to the hole.
5. Remove the shrub from its current container and prepare the roots by loosening tight clumps. Your goal is to break up the dirt and loosen the roots without breaking them off.
6. Place the roots into the hole and cover with soil.
7. Cover the ground with 2-4 inches of mulch to help retain moisture and reduce weeds.
8. Water your plant frequently to keep the soil moist, especially on warm days. Try to moisten the soil, but avoid soaking the area.
9. Apply fertilizer to the area directly around the shrub periodically to help with growth. Camilla shrubs are not heavy feeders, so using an acidic fertilizer at half-strength applied just once every 2-3 weeks will most likely be sufficient.
10. Once your tea shrub is planted, it just needs loving care, plenty of patience and time to mature. Shrubs should have 3 years to grow before you begin harvesting the leaves. 

Harvesting 

When your tree is established, you will want to start harvesting the leaves. The various stages of the leaves along with special processing methods that allow for different levels of fermentation produce the varieties of tea. 

Green Tea (No fermentation of leaves) 

• For green tea, pluck the youngest leaves and buds, this typically consists of the terminal 3 leaves and the terminal bud.
• Allow the leaves to dry, away from direct sunlight, for several hours.
• Next you will want to either steam or pan heat your green tea leaves.
• To steam the leaves, use the same process as steaming vegetables and steam for about 1 minute.
• To pan heat the leaves, place the leaves in a pan and heat to about 500° F for 15 minutes. Keep the pan in constant motion to avoid burning.
• To dry the leaves, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 250° F oven (no hotter than this) for 10-20 minutes.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

Oolong Tea (Leaves are partly fermented) 

• For oolong tea, pluck the youngest leaves and buds, this typically consists of the terminal 3 leaves and the terminal bud.
• Place the leaves on a tray or towel and allow them to wilt under the sun for about 45 minutes.
• Move the leaves out of the sun and heat and allow them to sit for a few hours at room temperature.
• Mix the leaves around every hour while they are sitting.
• As the leaves begin to dry, you will notice the edges beginning to turn red in color.
• To dry the leaves, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 250° F oven (no hotter than this) for 10-20 minutes.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

Black Tea (Leaves are fully fermented) 

• For black tea, pluck the youngest leaves and buds, this typically consists of the terminal 3 leaves and the terminal bud.
• Place the leaves between your hands and use a rubbing motion to crush the leaves until they begin to darken and turn red in color.
• Place the leaves on a tray and leave them set in a cool place for a couple of days.
• To dry the leaves, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 250° F oven (no hotter than this) for 10-20 minutes.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

White Tea (No fermentation of leaves) 

• White tea is only harvested in the spring when the very newest of leaves are available.
• Pluck the newest leaves and buds, just as they are emerging on the plant, these will still have the white fuzz on them and the buds will still be closed. The leaves will have a silver look.
• Spread the leaves out on a pan and allow them to wither and dry.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

Additional Tips and Ideas 

1. Add herbs, dried fruits or edible flowers to your tea before steeping for an endless variety of flavors.
2. Tea plants produce fragrant flowers that can be very attractive to insects, especially moths.
3. White tea has three times more antioxidants than green or black tea.

Grapes are quickly becoming a popular fruit to grow in the backyard. Whether you desire the look of decorative bunches or the taste of the sweet, juicy treats, with over 20,000 varieties, there are now grapes that can be grown in nearly every climate. With a little extra care and attention to the growing process, you’ll be rewarded with elegant beauty and a taste that can’t be topped. 

Before You Plant 

Choose the Right Type: 

• There are many varieties of grapes and finding the one that matches your climate, soil and growing conditions is key. This one step can make or break your grape growing success.
• Consider insects that may eat the grapes and when they are most prominent. For example, if you have a large number of wasps in the fall, you will want an early-ripening grape.
• If you are unsure of what varieties will grow in your area, research online or visit a local vineyard and see what types they grow.
• If no one in your area grows grapes, it doesn’t mean that they can’t be grown. Do your research and choose a variety that best fits your situation. 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• This should be an area that both air and soil drain away effectively. Many varieties of grapes are unable to handle the frost, so you want the cool air and water to flow away from your planting area. Sometimes this can be achieved by simply planting the grapes on an elevated area.

• Grapes prefer full sun, so find an area that has little or no shade. 

Prepare the Soil: 

• Grapes need rich soil to grow in. Before you plant, prepare the soil with plenty of organic matter, especially fish fertilizer. Avoid chemical fertilizers as they contain a high level of nitrogen, something that grapes don’t need. Some may choose to mix the organic matter into the soil, or you can lay it on top and allow the worms, soil and insects naturally mix the materials. 

Planting/Growing 

What You Will Need:  

• Grapevine (with roots established)
• Small shovel or spade
• Trellis
• Copper wire or string 

Steps for Planting: 

1. When you have chosen a variety that meets your needs and is able to thrive in your area and you have prepared the soil, you are ready to plant your vine.
2. Fortunately, planting grape vines is not difficult at all. Simply dig a small hole in the ground (try not to damage the structure of the soil any more than necessary) and insert the roots of the vine.
3. Fill the remainder of the hole with the loose soil.
4. Cover with mulch.
5. Grapevines will need a trellis or other support for growth. You will need to train your vine by starting it straight up the trellis. Allow secondary vines to branch out further. It may be necessary to tie the vine to the trellis to start out with.
6. Find out whether the variety of grapes that you are planting is self-pollinating. If it is not, you will need to plant a pollinizer nearby. A pollinizer is a plant that is planted nearby that provides the pollen necessary to produce fruit.
7. After the first month, will need to water your grapevines during droughts only. Grapes do not require frequent waterings. 

Growing/Pruning 

Pruning your grapevines is the most important part of this “art.” Pruning allows you to manage the plant, regulate the size of the crop and adjust the quality of the fruit. 

What You Will Need: 

• Clippers / lopping shears 

Learning When and How to Prune: 

1. The art of pruning is developed over time and is affected mostly by your desired outcome. Here are some pruning times, each with different outcomes:

• Summer Pruning to Increase Fruit Growth: Trim back vines when they have exceeded 2-3 feet of growth. This directs the energy back into the fruit, rather than plant growth, making a sweeter, more productive crop.
• Fall Pruning: These prunings are not recommended and should only be done if you are sure there will be no warm spells that would allow growth before winter. Typically it is best to wait and do a winter pruning.
• Winter/Spring Pruning: Most plants are pruned in late winter to allow for new growth. The key to this is pruning early enough that new growth has not already begun and late enough that no new growth will form before a frost. If this happens, it will lead to freeze damage which is dangerous for your grapevines. It is often best to prune no more than one month before the last frost.
• Lateral shoots (those growing to the side) are not fruitful and should be removed. Only keep these shoots if you need them to grow onto the trellis for support.
• Prune new shoots way back the first few years to encourage growth of the main vine.
• Keep the first 6-12 buds on the cane, these produce the fruit, and trim back the rest unless they are needed for trellis support.
• Prune any brown or brittle buds as they have been winter damaged and need to be removed.
• Prune away enough of the vine to allow plenty of air and sunlight to reach the fruit and vines.

2. Pruning is a detailed process, there are even books devoted to pruning grapevines. Here are some basic rules to get you started.

3. Harvest your grapes when the grape at the bottom of the bunch is sweet. If some of the grapes are not fully ripened, they can be ripened by setting in the sun for a day or two. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. Grapevines make beautiful decorations. Use your trimmings to make wreaths or other decorative pieces. This is best done while the vines are wet and easy to bend. They will stiffen as they dry.
2. Want to make raisins? Remove all stems and place the seedless grapes on a pan or screen in the sun. This will take several days, so watch out for animals and other critters. Move to a safe location, often inside, during the night and any rain.

Peonies are stunning, delicate flowers.  Native to Asia, southern Europe, and westernNorth America, peonies grow best in cool climates and require winter’s chill for blooms in the spring.  Because varieties can be either herbaceous or woody in nature, there is certainly a peony for every need and preference.  These long-lasting perennials are an excellent way to add a burst of color to your garden! 

Before You Plant 

Choose the Right Type: 

• Herbaceous, or plant-like, peonies prefer cooler climate zones.  They will, however, grow anywhere they experience a cold winter, even as far south as northernFloridaandTexasas long as there are few cold weeks of winter.  Areas where the temperature dips more than 40 degrees below zero are less than ideal for a peony, which eliminates much of the northern tier of Midwestern andNew EnglandStates.
• Woody, or tree, peonies are slightly less hardy in the cold.  In the northern half of theUnited States, tree peonies may need protection over the winter in order to thrive and produce spring-time flowers.  They will grow well into the southern reaches of theUSin all but the hottest regions, producing flowers in spring with exposure to below freezing temperatures during the cold months.
• Both varieties of peonies have been successful outside of their optimum temperature conditions with a bit of extra care, so it’s quite possible to have success growing peonies throughout much of the United States. 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• Peonies require a great deal of sunshine, so plant them in full sun for a bounty of blooms.  In areas where summer temperatures reach extreme levels, a light shade canopy during the hottest time of the day will benefit the plants.
• The area must be free of standing water, as peonies rot quickly.  They prefer a rich, heavy soil, so the key is to make sure that it is exceptionally well drained.
• In mild climates, plant with northern exposure and avoid mulching to assure that peonies receive the required cold for best production.
• Ideally, the soil pH should be 6.0 to 7.0.  Your local cooperative extension office can test your soil for you, or you can buy pH test kits from hardware stores. 

Prepare the Soil: 

• Peonies prefer a heavy, rich soil that is well drained.  If you have less than ideal planting conditions amend the soil with peat, compost, and fertilizer as needed.  If you need to adjust the pH, there are fertilizers available for nearly any soil situation.
• The best time to plant peonies is fall through frost.  A springtime planting may prevent the plant from blooming for a season or two. 

Planting/Growing 

What You Will Need:  

• Peony plants
• Small shovel
• Prepared soil 

Steps for Planting Herbaceous Peonies:

1. Choose a location carefully.  Peonies don’t like to be moved, so you should consider your new peonies to be permanent residents and space them accordingly.
2. Use the shovel to dig a hole approximately 18” in diameter and 12”-18” in depth.   Plants should be 2.5’-3’ apart.
3. Fill the bottom 2”-4” with organic matter (peat, compost, leaves, etc) and add ½ cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer to the hole (or use a fertilizer as needed for your soil conditions).  Do not leave fertilizer where it will directly contact the roots.
4. Fill the hole half full of prepared soil.
5. Place the bare root peony in the hole, backfilling under the roots with soil.  Be sure that the “eyes” are facing upward, and no more than 2” below the surface of the soil once planted.
6. If the plant is not bare root, prepare the soil as directed and plant the peony as the same level as it was in the pot.  Peonies do not like to be transplanted, so this method is less successful than bare root planting.
7. Apply mulch in cold climates, or leave the plant bed exposed for winter in milder regions.
8. Water deeply.  If standing water remains, you need to eliminate the ground conditions that allow it.
9. During periods without rain, water deeply once per week. 

Steps for Planting Woody Peonies:

1. Tree peonies are planted much the same as herbaceous peonies are, but they require a different planting depth.  Follow steps 1-4 for woody peonies.
2. Plant a tree tuber with 4”-5” of soil covering the graft (which is often marked by nurseries).
3. Continue with steps 6-9 for planting peonies. 

Growing/Pruning 

Follow these easy steps for a show-stopping display of flowers each spring! 

What You Will Need: 

• Pruning shears
• Stakes
• Coated wire 

Steps for Care and Maintenance: 

1. In the spring, add a 2” layer of mulch to deter weeds.
2. When plants are 2-3” tall, add a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10.
3. When the first buds appear, remove the side buds from each stem, leaving the terminal (end) bud in place.  This encourages show-stopping blooms.
4. When plants grow heavy with blooms, stake behind the plant and secure plants with loops of coated wire in a figure 8 position, with one loop circling the plant and the other the stake, allowing them to cross in the middle.
5. Remove fading blooms to prevent seed development.
6. Cut no more than ½ of the flowers for vases or display, and leave as much foliage on the plant as possible.  For young plants, remove no more than 1/3 of the flowers, as this process with reduce flowering for the next spring.
7. To winterize herbaceous peonies and protect against fungus, cut them back to 3” from the soil after a heavy frost.  Do not cut back tree peonies. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. Ants are attracted to the sweet natural secretions of peonies.  They do little, if any, harm to the plants themselves.
2. It may take years for peonies to bloom for the first time, especially if they were transplanted.
3. Established peonies tolerate drought conditions well.

A classic holiday decoration brought to the United State sby the first English settlers, holly continues to be a popular Christmas favorite. With beautiful foliage (though watch out for those needles!) and bright red berries, it naturally brings out the colors of the season. Many like to grow their own holly for use in winter decorating and it’s quite simple to do!

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type:

• Around 300 species of holly are found all around the world. Most grow in temperate and sub-tropical locations, though there are some that will grow in colder regions.
• Holly grows in many ways with some smaller plants, shrubs, and even large trees.
• Check the growth range of your specific plant as some can reach heights of 70 feet! (Though others only grow to six inches.)
• Here are some to consider:
• Ilex aquifolium –English Holly has bright green, glossy foliage adorned with brilliant berries. This is the holly that is most often desired for holiday decorations and is commonly replicated in pictures. It requires warmer areas and grows best up to zone 6.
• Ilex opaca – American Holly is similar to English Holly, with foliage and berries that are a little less brilliant. However, it is much hardier to colder regions.
• Ilex cornuta – The Burford Holly, otherwise known as Burfordii, grows as a shrub. The leaves are dark green in color and it produces large, red berries. While this shrub is hardy to colder regions, the leaves may be damaged.
• Ilex crenata – These Japanese Holly species are often used as landscaping rather than decorations. They produce black berries rather than red. They are much hardier to colder temperatures and can be pruned to specific shapes and sizes.
• While traditional holly is green with red berries, the Gold Coast variety has green foliage with bright yellow margins. This male plant is often grouped together with the female plant Argenteo Marginata. This popular plant produces green foliage with cream margins. Together they make a beautiful combination.
• Holly plants are dioecious, meaning there are both male and female plants. Only female plants will produce berries. In order for this to happen, there must be a male plant in close proximity (within 30 feet). Without a male plant present, your plant will not bear any fruit. If you don’t have space for several plants, consider placing a male and female plant together in a large pot.
• Most holly is only hardy to zone 6. There is a small handful that are hardy to zone 5 and only a few that are hardy in zone 4. Choose your plant’s growth requirements carefully to ensure they will grow well in your area.

Find a Suitable Place: 

• Most holly likes full sun, though most will tolerate light shade. Check the requirements for your specific variety.
• Avoid exposed areas where the plant will have to tolerate wind. 

Prepare the Soil: 

• Soil must be well-draining. Amend heavy soils with plenty of organic matter.
• Holly loves organic, acidic soil. To increase the acidity of the soil, there are several options.
• Ammonium sulfate will lower the pH immediately, however it also raises the nitrogen levels, and too much nitrogen reduces berry production.
• Add sphagnum peat to the soil.
• Coffee grounds, oak leaves and pine needles work more slowly, but they’re free!
•  For the best results, have your soil tested by a local extension office. This will inform you of the exact acidity levels in the soil so you will know how much to amend. 

Planting/Growing                               

What You Will Need:  

• Holly plants
• Holly Tone fertilizer
• Small shovel
• Organic compost/mulch
• Prepared soil
• Water 

Steps for Planting Holly: 

1. Begin by preparing the soil according to the instructions above.
2. Dig a hole that is approximately twice as large as the root ball of the holly plant.
3. Carefully remove the plant from its original container. Be careful not to disturb the roots.
4. Place the root ball into the hole, keeping it at the same depth as it was in the original container.
5. Fill in with removed soil and pat to firm.
6. Water thoroughly immediately after planting.
7. Adding mulch around the base of the plant will help to retain moisture and keep weeds away.
8. Fertilize regularly with Holly Tone following the guidelines on the package.
9. Continue to water regularly to moisten the soil when it becomes dry, but never water so much that the ground becomes soggy. Once holly is established, it can tolerate a certain level of drought, so be careful not to overwater.
10. Weed the area regularly so your plants can get the maximum nutrients and water from the soil.
11. Prune each spring to keep the plant shapely and under control. 

Starting Holly from Seeds 

1. In order for holly seeds to germinate, you must use a process called stratification.
2. Place the leaves between several layers of soil and leaves.
3. Alternate the temperature between freezing and thawing several times (while always keeping the temperature cool).
4. This freezing/thawing process breaks the coating on the seed and allows it to grow.
5. Plant the seeds directly into the soil in the spring. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. If you must transplant your holly, it is best to do it late winter or early spring while the plant is dormant. Carefully remove the entire root ball and replant in the desired location.
2. Many growers like to decorate with holly for the holidays. Be cautious when taking cuttings as cutting too much off of the plant can harm the plant. If you want to include lots of fresh holly in your decorating, simply grow several plants.
3. Low berry production can be caused by high nitrogen levels in the soil, poor pollination, or spring frosts damaging the flower buds.
4. Animals love to feast on the berries and foliage. You may need to add protection to keep rabbits, deer, squirrels, birds and other hungry critters away.
5. Holly also grows well in large containers. Often, nurseries will sell two plants (one male and one female) together in a large 5-gallon container.

Once established, Forsythia, otherwise known as Golden Bell, are one of the easiest shrubs to grow. With nearly no maintenance at all they quickly grow several feet each year into beautiful bushes that announce the arrival of spring with their bright yellow flowers. Whether you’re looking for a single shrub or a hedgerow of color, these plants are sure to add a striking touch of gold to your landscape or garden.

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type:

• Most forsythia shrubs are hardy in zones 4-9. Check the particular cultivar for temperature ranges as some do better in cold climates than others.
• There is a wide range of sizes from compact one-foot plants to taller varieties that can reach 8-10 feet. Some plants also grow just as wide as they do tall, be sure to find a variety that will fit well in your space.
• Check with your local nursery or greenhouse to locate a variety that will thrive in your area.

Find a Suitable Place:

• The bright blooms require an area with full sun or partial shade. Generally, the more sun the plant receives, the more vibrant the blooms will be.
• Taller varieties grow well next to buildings or other structures that may offer some support.

Prepare the Soil:

• Though these plants will grow in poor conditions, there are steps you can take to ensure the best growth.
• The soil should be well-draining, amend heavy soil with plenty of compost.
• Adding garden compost, peat moss or composted manure to the soil will supply the necessary nutrients to give your plant a great start!

Planting/Growing/Pruning

What You Will Need:

• Forsythia plants
• Small shovel
• Organic compost/mulch
• All purpose fertilizer (10-10-10)
• Prepared soil
• Water

Steps for Planting Forsythia:

1. Start by digging a hole twice as wide as and slightly deeper than the current container holding the shrub.
2. Remove the root ball from the container and place it into the hole, trying to keep it at the same depth as it was in the original container.
3. Fill in with removed soil and pat to firm.
4. Water thoroughly immediately after planting.
5. Applying a layer of mulch around the plant will keep the ground moist and help keep weeds under control.
6. Continue to water during dry spells and fertilize once or twice a year with a general fertilizer. If you’d like to enhance the blooms on your shrub, use a fertilizer high in phosphorous.

Steps for Pruning Forsythia:

1. Though these plants are virtually maintenance free to grow, they will quickly get out of hand if they are not pruned regularly.
2. These plants grow very quickly, so it’s okay to prune them aggressively.
3. It is best to prune immediately after the flowers fade, before the buds for next year’s flowers develop.
4. Cut back about ¼ of the old stems to 4 inches above the ground each year.
5. If your plant becomes overgrown and stops blooming, cut the entire plant back to the ground. It will grow back within a few years and look better than ever!

Forcing Winter Blooms Indoors

1. If you’d like a splash of color to brighten up those dreary winter days, you can bring some of your forsythia branches indoors and force them to bloom.
2. Choose some branches from the top of the plant and cut them off close to the stem. The larger the buds, the better the blooms will be.
3. Remove the buds and branches on the lower part of the stem (the part that will be submerged in water) to avoid rotting.
4. Cut the stem at an angle and place into cold water. Set the vase with branches in a cool area for a couple of days.
5. Cut the stem again at an angle and place in warm water. Set the vase and branches in a bright sunny area until they begin to bloom.
6. Enjoy this splash of color on a dark winter day! As an added bonus, the cuttings may form roots which can be transplanted for new plants!

Propagation of New Plants

With Cuttings:

1. New plants can easily be propagated with cuttings anytime as long as there is some new growth available.
2. Cut 3-6 inches of new growth from the end of a branch.
3. An optional step is to dip the end of the cutting into rooting hormone to expedite the production of roots.
4. Place the end of the cutting into a glass of water or a small pot filled with fresh, moist soil.
5. Keep the cutting in the rooting medium until roots begin to grow. This usually takes a couple of weeks.
6. Rooted cuttings can be planted at anytime.

Additional Tips and Advice

1. If the blooms on your plant are not vibrant, it may not be receiving enough sunlight.
2. If transplanting established plants, it is best to do in winter when they are dormant.
3. Pests and disease are not common problems, treat as necessary.

As Asian cuisine grows in popularity, so does the herb lemongrass. The lemon-smelling leaves of this plant provide a citrus taste without the bite from actual lemon juice. If you’re interested in growing it yourself, it can easily be started from the herb you buy from your local supermarket. In just a short time you’ll have your own supply of this fragrant herb to add to your cooking delight.

Before You Plant

Choosing a Plant: 

• The easiest way to obtain starter plants is at your local grocery store or Asian market.
• When selecting plants, choose the freshest available with long green leaves and plump bulbs on the end. Avoid any bunches that look dried out or wilted.
• Check the bases for any vestiges of roots as these are necessary for starting a plant.

Find a Suitable Place:

• An area with full sun is important for lemongrass to grow well. An area that is protected from winds is even better.
• The plants will spread as they grows, so allow some additional space surrounding the planting area.

 Prepare the Soil:

• The soil should be rich and well-draining, amend heavy soil with plenty of compost.

Planting/Growing/Harvesting

What You Will Need:

• Lemongrass plants
• Small shovel
• Organic fertilizer (optional)
• Water

Steps for Planting:

1. If your plants do not have roots, trim off the top couple of inches of leaves and remove any outer leaves that have expired. Place the bulb in a glass of water, in a sunny place, for a couple of days to allow roots to form.
2. When roots have grown 1-2 inches, you can plant the bulbs into your garden.
3. It is best to plant lemongrass in the spring after the last frost and the ground has started to warm.
4. Place the bulb into the soil only up to the widest part of the bulb.
5. Pat the soil to firm it around the bulb.
6. Water thoroughly after planting.
7. Fertilization is usually not necessary, but if you choose to fertilize, use an organic fertilizer since you will be eating the plant.
8. Continue to water regularly. Ideally, the soil should be kept moist but not wet.
9. Remove any weeds in the area.

Steps for Harvesting:

1. As your lemongrass grows it will produce more stalks all season long.
2. When you are ready to use some, simply remove a stalk, roots and all.
3. Lemongrass dries out quickly, so harvest when you are ready to use or freeze it.
4. Clean away any dirt and it’s ready to use. Depending on your recipe, nearly all parts of the plant can be used.

Additional Tips and Advice

1. Be sure to divide the bulb from time to time to keep the plant from strangling itself.
2. Lemongrass can easily be grown in containers for fresh herbs year-round.
3. Lemongrass can be grown as a perennial in milder climates. When the first frost comes, cut off the dead leaves, but be careful not to cut too much.

We all love the smell that a fresh Christmas tree brings to our homes. Now that we have this beauty, how can we make it last? Here are some tips to keep your tree green and alive until Christmas.

Select a Fresh Tree 

• As you are looking for the perfect tree, be sure to look at the freshness along with the shape and size. To test for freshness, gently pull a branch through your fingers. If more than a couple of needles fall off, the tree has already begun drying out – go for a fresher one.
• Also, try bouncing the tree on the ground. You want to find a tree that is not losing lots of green needles with this gentle shake (not brown interior needles – those are normally lost).
• The smell of a fresh tree is strong, so let your nose lead the way to the perfect tree. 

Make a Fresh Cut 

• Cutting your tree straight from the ground ensures it’s the fresh, but even if you purchase a pre-cut tree, be sure to cut an inch or two off of the bottom of the trunk before placing it in water. When trees are cut, they naturally seal the cut area with a layer of sap within an hour or two. By cutting off the end, you’re removing the sap-covered portion so the tree can drink.
• If you really want to keep your tree alive, try using a “living Christmas tree.” These trees are brought into the house in large containers of soil, so they are never cut at all. Once Christmas is finished, you can plant it back outdoors for use next year. 

Watering Guidelines 

• It’s alive! Christmas trees are alive and need a constant source of water to stay that way. Water daily with VERY WARM water. There are two reasons for this: 1) the warm water loosens the sap and 2) it opens the pores. Both of these factors allow the tree to drink more water and last longer.
• The size of your water basin is important as well. It should hold at least one quart of water for each inch of the tree trunk’s diameter.
• Avoid adding anything to the water. While there are many concoctions available to purchase or make at home, most of them do more damage than good.
• Never allow the tree to run out of water. Check it several times a day for the first few days as this is when it drinks the most. After it has absorbed a good amount of water, you can start checking it daily.
• If the basin goes dry, you will need to re-cut the bottom of the trunk as it will have covered over with sap. 

Temperature 

• We love our toasty warm homes, but that same warmth causes Christmas trees to dry out quickly. Keep your tree away from heat sources and “hot spots” such as heaters and fire places in your home. The lower temperatures will not only help it stay green longer, it will help prevent fire hazards as well. 

Keep the Needles on the Tree 

• Prior to bringing the tree indoors, give a couple of bounces on a hard cement floor to knock out any dead needles.
• Mix in a can of 7-up with the water when you initially place the tree in the basin. The citrus and sugar are natural preservatives. 

After the Holidays– Get Rid of It! 

• Unlike Christmas lights, which some like to keep up until the weather warms, your Christmas tree will not last more than 4-5 weeks, even with the best precautions and care. Make plants to dispose of your tree (following your local laws) by January 2 at the latest. There are often services that will come and pick up  your spent tree to use as mulch, etc.