Pumpkins are favorites of gardeners all over the world — literally!  You’ll find them growing on every continent exceptAntarctica, their bright orange exteriors, an unmistakable sign of fall.  From tiny miniatures to the giants of the field, there’s nothing more satisfying than harvesting your own crop of pumpkins!  Here’s how you can bring a splash of color to your garden this fall.  

Before You Plant 

Choose the Right Type: 

• Pumpkin pie types (Cucurbita Moshata, which also includes other squash varieties) are smaller and sweeter than their cousins, the jack-o-lanterns.  These are great for cooking but slightly more difficult to carve due to their small size and thick flesh.
• Carving pumpkins (Cucurbita Pepo) are the so-called jack-o-lanterns of the pumpkin patch.  You can choose seeds that result in perfectly even, round pumpkins or opt instead for a variety that produces an interesting variety of ovals, spheres, knobby textures, and plenty of other fodder for creative carving.
• Giant pumpkins (Cucurbita Maxima) are the variety from which those show-stopping prize winners are grown.  Carefully tended, these pumpkins regularly grow to 600 pounds or more, with the world record nearing 1500 pounds for a single one of these monsters. 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• The traditional pumpkin patch takes up quite a bit of space, so gardeners with less room to grow will be happy to know that some varieties of pumpkins can even be grown in containers!  Consult the seed packet to determine how much space you’ll need in the garden, as this varies quite a bit from one variety to the next. 
• Pumpkins require moist soil.  Standing water will quickly rot the plant or the pumpkin itself, so proper drainage is just as important as good moisture.
• These fast-growing, hungry vines need a steady flow of nutrients.  Start with rich, organic soil and be prepared to fertilize frequently.
• Pumpkins thrive in full sunlight, so for the best possible crop, pick a sunny location for your pumpkin patch.
• Ideally, do not plant pumpkins where they were planted the year before.  If you must use the same spot, use extra care when fertilizing.  They can really sap the soil of nutrients, leaving little for the next year’s crop. 

Prepare the Soil: 

• It is beneficial to begin the soil amendment process well before planting time.  If that’s not possible, make sure that any compost or manure that you add to your soil has had time to properly decompose.  Immature compost can harm or kill your plant.
• After adding organic materials (compost, manure, peat, etc), turn the ground over several times so that it mixes in well. 
• If your soil is sandy, add topsoil.  Your site needs to be able to retain moisture for your pumpkins to grow well.  For heavy clay soil, you may need to add some sand.
• Before planting, apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer.
• Keep the area free from weeds, which compete for nutrients.
• Most pumpkin growers plant pumpkins on small mounds, or hills.  This protects the tender young vines from an excess of water from heavy spring or torrential summer rains, and also allows for better heating of the soil. 

Planting/Growing 

What You Will Need:  

• Pumpkin seeds
• Small shovel
• Prepared soil
• High-nitrogen liquid fertilizer 

Steps for Planting Pumpkins: 

1. The precise planting time will vary for your area, but it can easily be found on the seed pack.  Pumpkin maturity time depends on the variety of pumpkin and your climate conditions.  Most range from 90-160 days.
2. In general, you’ll want to sow 3-5 seeds per mound.  Follow the directions on your seed pack for your specific variety of pumpkin.  Adhere to the directions for the spacing between mounds.  It may look like a lot of empty space, but voracious pumpkins can grow at an astounding rate of 6” per day or more and that space will soon be lost in a tangle of vines and leaves.
3. Cover with the recommended amount of dirt and pat the mound firmly.
4. Water and fertilize the newly planted seeds.
5. After 2-3 days, water again if there has not been rain.  The object is to keep the soil moist without drowning the seeds.
6. When pumpkins sprout, thin to the one or two healthiest seedlings.  The stronger seedlings will be taller, thicker, and will have more leaves than their counterparts.
7. Water pumpkin plants in the morning and at the base of the plant.  Darkness and moisture on the leaves may lead to mildew.
8. Fertilize every two weeks, following the directions on the fertilizer.
9. When pumpkins are bright orange (assuming they are an orange variety) they are ready to pick.  Cut the stem carefully, and never pick pumpkins up by the stem, as it may not be able to support the weight of the pumpkin. 

How to Grow Giant Pumpkins: 

1. There are a few good varieties of mammoth pumpkins available, but if you’re going for a world record, the Atlantic Giant has been the only variety to hold the title since 1979.
2. When you prepare the soil, adjust for a pH between 6.5 and 6.8.  Garden centers have pH test kits.  Sulfur lowers pH, while lime raises it.
3. Start seeds indoors to get a head start on the growing season.
4. Protect seedlings from wind and frost.  Build a temporary shelter around the plant and cover with clear plastic sheeting.  Take extra care to keep the soil moist – rain may not be able to reach your plant under protection, and the warmer soil will dry out more quickly. 
5. Hand pollinate the flowers.  Female flowers will have tiny pumpkins attached.  Locate a male flower (sans pumpkin) and gently peel the petals back, touching the center pieces to those of the female flower.
6. If the vine has more than one pumpkin, choose the largest and healthiest and cull the others.
7. Once pumpkins are established, fertilize plants with 20-20-20 as often as directed. 

Growing/Pruning 

These simple steps will help your pumpkin crop along. 

What You Will Need: 

• Pruning shears
• 20-20-20 fertilizer 

Steps for Care and Maintenance: 

1. If your desire is quality, not quantity, remove all but one or two pumpkins from each vine.  This allows the plant to provide optimum nutrients and care to these fruits.
2. To keep your patch from become unruly, use pruning shears to trim each vine at a distance of 10-12’ past the end of the pumpkin.
3. Water regularly at the base of the plant, keeping the soil moist.
4. Fertilize with 20-20-20 as directed on the container.
5. Pick pumpkins when they mature so that the plant can continue produce more fruit. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. If you have a short growing season, you can start pumpkins indoors.  A seed starter kit will come with full instructions explaining how to successfully start your pumpkins.
2. Plant miniature pumpkins in containers if you don’t have much room.  You’ll have to be particularly careful to keep them well fertilized.
3. Pumpkin vines set down secondary roots, so if possible, amend or fertilize the soil under the vines as they grow.
4. Because pumpkins set down roots as they grow, it’s best not to move a wayward vine.  If it ventures into your yard, simply steer the mower around it until the end of the season.
5. Pumpkins don’t have to be orange!  Yellow and even ghostly white varieties are popular and just as easy to grow.

Tea is a popular beverage both for enjoyment as well as its medicinal properties. Green, white, oolong and black teas are all harvested from the same tea shrub, Camellia sinesis, which is very easy to grow. Here’s how to make the most out of your tea shrub and reap the benefits with the phenomenal taste of fresh tea. 

Preparing to Plant 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• Tea shrubs grow well up to the zone 8 hardiness zone and prefer humid climates.
• Seedlings and young plants should be planted in the shade and then transferred to an area with full sun when they mature.
• If you don’t have an area outside, or if the temperature is too cold, tea shrubs can also be grown as indoor plants.
• The mature tea shrub can reach heights of 6-10 feet if left untrimmed. 

Preparing the Soil: 

• Camilla sinensis prefer acidic, sandy soil that is well drained.  If you have less than ideal planting conditions amend the soil by adding in missing components.  If you need to adjust the pH, there are fertilizers available for nearly any soil situation.
• If you are planting your tea in a container, mix sphagnum moss in with the potting soil. 

Planting 

What You Will Need: 

• Mulch
• Fertilizer
• Garden trowel
• Small shovel
• Tea shrub, cuttings or seeds
• Water
• Plenty of patience 

How to Plant: 

1. Once you have found the best location for your shrub and prepared the soil, you are ready to plant.
2. You can start your tea shrub from seeds, but many find it easier to use cuttings or buy a shrub from a nursery.
3. Begin by digging the hole in the sandy soil. The size of the hole needed will vary depending on the size of the shrub you are planting. You will want the hole to be deep enough to completely submerge the roots along with a couple inches of the stem/trunk.
4. Add a small amount of water to the hole.
5. Remove the shrub from its current container and prepare the roots by loosening tight clumps. Your goal is to break up the dirt and loosen the roots without breaking them off.
6. Place the roots into the hole and cover with soil.
7. Cover the ground with 2-4 inches of mulch to help retain moisture and reduce weeds.
8. Water your plant frequently to keep the soil moist, especially on warm days. Try to moisten the soil, but avoid soaking the area.
9. Apply fertilizer to the area directly around the shrub periodically to help with growth. Camilla shrubs are not heavy feeders, so using an acidic fertilizer at half-strength applied just once every 2-3 weeks will most likely be sufficient.
10. Once your tea shrub is planted, it just needs loving care, plenty of patience and time to mature. Shrubs should have 3 years to grow before you begin harvesting the leaves. 

Harvesting 

When your tree is established, you will want to start harvesting the leaves. The various stages of the leaves along with special processing methods that allow for different levels of fermentation produce the varieties of tea. 

Green Tea (No fermentation of leaves) 

• For green tea, pluck the youngest leaves and buds, this typically consists of the terminal 3 leaves and the terminal bud.
• Allow the leaves to dry, away from direct sunlight, for several hours.
• Next you will want to either steam or pan heat your green tea leaves.
• To steam the leaves, use the same process as steaming vegetables and steam for about 1 minute.
• To pan heat the leaves, place the leaves in a pan and heat to about 500° F for 15 minutes. Keep the pan in constant motion to avoid burning.
• To dry the leaves, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 250° F oven (no hotter than this) for 10-20 minutes.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

Oolong Tea (Leaves are partly fermented) 

• For oolong tea, pluck the youngest leaves and buds, this typically consists of the terminal 3 leaves and the terminal bud.
• Place the leaves on a tray or towel and allow them to wilt under the sun for about 45 minutes.
• Move the leaves out of the sun and heat and allow them to sit for a few hours at room temperature.
• Mix the leaves around every hour while they are sitting.
• As the leaves begin to dry, you will notice the edges beginning to turn red in color.
• To dry the leaves, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 250° F oven (no hotter than this) for 10-20 minutes.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

Black Tea (Leaves are fully fermented) 

• For black tea, pluck the youngest leaves and buds, this typically consists of the terminal 3 leaves and the terminal bud.
• Place the leaves between your hands and use a rubbing motion to crush the leaves until they begin to darken and turn red in color.
• Place the leaves on a tray and leave them set in a cool place for a couple of days.
• To dry the leaves, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 250° F oven (no hotter than this) for 10-20 minutes.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

White Tea (No fermentation of leaves) 

• White tea is only harvested in the spring when the very newest of leaves are available.
• Pluck the newest leaves and buds, just as they are emerging on the plant, these will still have the white fuzz on them and the buds will still be closed. The leaves will have a silver look.
• Spread the leaves out on a pan and allow them to wither and dry.
• Dried leaves can be stored in an air-tight container, in a cool, dark place until ready to use. 

Additional Tips and Ideas 

1. Add herbs, dried fruits or edible flowers to your tea before steeping for an endless variety of flavors.
2. Tea plants produce fragrant flowers that can be very attractive to insects, especially moths.
3. White tea has three times more antioxidants than green or black tea.

Grapes are quickly becoming a popular fruit to grow in the backyard. Whether you desire the look of decorative bunches or the taste of the sweet, juicy treats, with over 20,000 varieties, there are now grapes that can be grown in nearly every climate. With a little extra care and attention to the growing process, you’ll be rewarded with elegant beauty and a taste that can’t be topped. 

Before You Plant 

Choose the Right Type: 

• There are many varieties of grapes and finding the one that matches your climate, soil and growing conditions is key. This one step can make or break your grape growing success.
• Consider insects that may eat the grapes and when they are most prominent. For example, if you have a large number of wasps in the fall, you will want an early-ripening grape.
• If you are unsure of what varieties will grow in your area, research online or visit a local vineyard and see what types they grow.
• If no one in your area grows grapes, it doesn’t mean that they can’t be grown. Do your research and choose a variety that best fits your situation. 

Find a Suitable Place: 

• This should be an area that both air and soil drain away effectively. Many varieties of grapes are unable to handle the frost, so you want the cool air and water to flow away from your planting area. Sometimes this can be achieved by simply planting the grapes on an elevated area.

• Grapes prefer full sun, so find an area that has little or no shade. 

Prepare the Soil: 

• Grapes need rich soil to grow in. Before you plant, prepare the soil with plenty of organic matter, especially fish fertilizer. Avoid chemical fertilizers as they contain a high level of nitrogen, something that grapes don’t need. Some may choose to mix the organic matter into the soil, or you can lay it on top and allow the worms, soil and insects naturally mix the materials. 

Planting/Growing 

What You Will Need:  

• Grapevine (with roots established)
• Small shovel or spade
• Trellis
• Copper wire or string 

Steps for Planting: 

1. When you have chosen a variety that meets your needs and is able to thrive in your area and you have prepared the soil, you are ready to plant your vine.
2. Fortunately, planting grape vines is not difficult at all. Simply dig a small hole in the ground (try not to damage the structure of the soil any more than necessary) and insert the roots of the vine.
3. Fill the remainder of the hole with the loose soil.
4. Cover with mulch.
5. Grapevines will need a trellis or other support for growth. You will need to train your vine by starting it straight up the trellis. Allow secondary vines to branch out further. It may be necessary to tie the vine to the trellis to start out with.
6. Find out whether the variety of grapes that you are planting is self-pollinating. If it is not, you will need to plant a pollinizer nearby. A pollinizer is a plant that is planted nearby that provides the pollen necessary to produce fruit.
7. After the first month, will need to water your grapevines during droughts only. Grapes do not require frequent waterings. 

Growing/Pruning 

Pruning your grapevines is the most important part of this “art.” Pruning allows you to manage the plant, regulate the size of the crop and adjust the quality of the fruit. 

What You Will Need: 

• Clippers / lopping shears 

Learning When and How to Prune: 

1. The art of pruning is developed over time and is affected mostly by your desired outcome. Here are some pruning times, each with different outcomes:

• Summer Pruning to Increase Fruit Growth: Trim back vines when they have exceeded 2-3 feet of growth. This directs the energy back into the fruit, rather than plant growth, making a sweeter, more productive crop.
• Fall Pruning: These prunings are not recommended and should only be done if you are sure there will be no warm spells that would allow growth before winter. Typically it is best to wait and do a winter pruning.
• Winter/Spring Pruning: Most plants are pruned in late winter to allow for new growth. The key to this is pruning early enough that new growth has not already begun and late enough that no new growth will form before a frost. If this happens, it will lead to freeze damage which is dangerous for your grapevines. It is often best to prune no more than one month before the last frost.
• Lateral shoots (those growing to the side) are not fruitful and should be removed. Only keep these shoots if you need them to grow onto the trellis for support.
• Prune new shoots way back the first few years to encourage growth of the main vine.
• Keep the first 6-12 buds on the cane, these produce the fruit, and trim back the rest unless they are needed for trellis support.
• Prune any brown or brittle buds as they have been winter damaged and need to be removed.
• Prune away enough of the vine to allow plenty of air and sunlight to reach the fruit and vines.

2. Pruning is a detailed process, there are even books devoted to pruning grapevines. Here are some basic rules to get you started.

3. Harvest your grapes when the grape at the bottom of the bunch is sweet. If some of the grapes are not fully ripened, they can be ripened by setting in the sun for a day or two. 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. Grapevines make beautiful decorations. Use your trimmings to make wreaths or other decorative pieces. This is best done while the vines are wet and easy to bend. They will stiffen as they dry.
2. Want to make raisins? Remove all stems and place the seedless grapes on a pan or screen in the sun. This will take several days, so watch out for animals and other critters. Move to a safe location, often inside, during the night and any rain.

As Asian cuisine grows in popularity, so does the herb lemongrass. The lemon-smelling leaves of this plant provide a citrus taste without the bite from actual lemon juice. If you’re interested in growing it yourself, it can easily be started from the herb you buy from your local supermarket. In just a short time you’ll have your own supply of this fragrant herb to add to your cooking delight.

Before You Plant

Choosing a Plant: 

• The easiest way to obtain starter plants is at your local grocery store or Asian market.
• When selecting plants, choose the freshest available with long green leaves and plump bulbs on the end. Avoid any bunches that look dried out or wilted.
• Check the bases for any vestiges of roots as these are necessary for starting a plant.

Find a Suitable Place:

• An area with full sun is important for lemongrass to grow well. An area that is protected from winds is even better.
• The plants will spread as they grows, so allow some additional space surrounding the planting area.

 Prepare the Soil:

• The soil should be rich and well-draining, amend heavy soil with plenty of compost.

Planting/Growing/Harvesting

What You Will Need:

• Lemongrass plants
• Small shovel
• Organic fertilizer (optional)
• Water

Steps for Planting:

1. If your plants do not have roots, trim off the top couple of inches of leaves and remove any outer leaves that have expired. Place the bulb in a glass of water, in a sunny place, for a couple of days to allow roots to form.
2. When roots have grown 1-2 inches, you can plant the bulbs into your garden.
3. It is best to plant lemongrass in the spring after the last frost and the ground has started to warm.
4. Place the bulb into the soil only up to the widest part of the bulb.
5. Pat the soil to firm it around the bulb.
6. Water thoroughly after planting.
7. Fertilization is usually not necessary, but if you choose to fertilize, use an organic fertilizer since you will be eating the plant.
8. Continue to water regularly. Ideally, the soil should be kept moist but not wet.
9. Remove any weeds in the area.

Steps for Harvesting:

1. As your lemongrass grows it will produce more stalks all season long.
2. When you are ready to use some, simply remove a stalk, roots and all.
3. Lemongrass dries out quickly, so harvest when you are ready to use or freeze it.
4. Clean away any dirt and it’s ready to use. Depending on your recipe, nearly all parts of the plant can be used.

Additional Tips and Advice

1. Be sure to divide the bulb from time to time to keep the plant from strangling itself.
2. Lemongrass can easily be grown in containers for fresh herbs year-round.
3. Lemongrass can be grown as a perennial in milder climates. When the first frost comes, cut off the dead leaves, but be careful not to cut too much.

Few things top the taste of red ripe strawberries in the summertime. It’s easy to grow your own beautiful fruit right in your container garden. Strawberries are perennials, meaning that they continue to grow year after year giving you lots of fruit for your efforts.

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type:

There are three types of strawberries plants available. All of which may work for container planting, depending on your location. June bearing plants produce a large crop of fruit in late spring. The entire crop ripens over a three week time span, usually in June. Everbearing plants produce smaller crops than the June bearing, but produce two crops, one in the spring and one in the fall. Day neutral plants are capable of producing fruit throughout the entire growing season. Virtually every type that can be grown in a garden can be grown outdoors in a container. However, indoor planting can limit the amount of sunlight that the plant receives. Red Alpine is an everbearing variety that can tolerate a good amount of shade making it ideal for indoor growing.

Find a Suitable Place: 

• Strawberries need plenty of sunshine for the best growth. Find a sunny window to place your plant in front of for the best results.
• A minimum of six hours of sunshine a day is needed.
• Rotate plants regularly to ensure all sides get full sun exposure.

Prepare the Soil: 

• Ideally, the soil pH should be 5.3 to 6.5. Most commercial potting soil will be sufficient for this purpose. If you are unsure about the pH level of the soil, your local cooperative extension office can test the soil for you, or you can buy pH test kits from hardware stores.
• For container planting, mix a high quality potting soil with a slow release fertilizer. 

Planting in Strawberry Pots and Containers 

Strawberry pots are specially designed planting containers with pockets up and down the sides of the pot. These pockets are perfect for planting runners, although most gardeners start plants in them from the start. 

What You Will Need:  

• Strawberry plants
• Strawberry pot or container
• PVC Pipe capped on one end
• Slow release fertilizer (optional)
• Fertilizer (high in potassium)
• All purpose potting soil
• Drill
• Small shovel 

Planting in a Strawberry Pot: 

1. Begin by standing the PVC pipe in the pot and cut it down so that the open edge is even with the top of the pot.
2. Use the drill to make small holes (approximately 1/8 inch), spaced one inch apart all the way down alternating sides of the pipe. The finished pipe should have holes on alternating sides (not directly across from each other) so that the water will be evenly distributed.
3. Prior to placing the soil into the pot, you can mix it with a slow release fertilizer. This step is optional but may help keep the plant fed.
4. Fill the pot approximately 1/3 full with soil and insert the pipe so the capped end is at the bottom.
5. Continue to loosely fill the container about ¾ full with soil.
6. Next you will start planting in the side pockets.
7. Prepare the plant by removing damaged roots, trimming long roots down to 4-5” and removing any flowers, runners and dead leaves.
8. Place one strawberry plant in each pocket.
9. Fill in with more soil around the roots as necessary.
10. When all the pockets are planted and there is sufficient soil around the roots, you are ready to plant the top plants.
11. The top of the pot is designed to hold 1-4 plants. Place the plants where you would like them and fill in with the remaining soil.
12. Water thoroughly to moisten the soil. Use a funnel to pour water into the pipe inserted into the center of the pot to allow for even distribution of the water to all of the pocket plants.
13. For the first six weeks, remove all blossoms and runners by pinching them off. This allows the plant to become established before it spends energy producing runners and fruit.
14. Continue to water regularly, even daily, until growing season. After this time, water when the top of the soil is dry.
15. Indoor plants require regular fertilization. If no slow-release fertilizer was added to the potting soil, fertilize plants with a high potassium fertilizer every ten days starting when they begin to bloom and stopping two weeks after harvesting.

Planting in Regular Containers

 What You Will Need:  

• Strawberry plants
• Container (any type will work)
• Slow release fertilizer (optional)
• Fertilizer (high in potassium)
• All purpose potting soil
• Drill/Hammer and nails
• Fiberglass window screen 

Planting in a Regular Pot/Container: 

1. Begin by checking your container for proper drainage. If there are no holes in the bottom, use the drill/hammer and nails to make some.
2. Cover the bottom of the container where you have made holes with the fiberglass window screen. This will keep the soil from exiting the container through the holes.
3. Fill the container about 3/4 full with potting soil. If your container is very deep, fill it a little higher.
4. Prepare the plant by removing damaged roots, trimming long roots down to 4-5” and removing any flowers, runners and dead leaves.
5. Make a small hole in the soil. Place the plant into the hole so that the roots are pointing downward and are slightly fanned out.
6. You will need to carefully set the plants to keep the roots from either rotting or drying out.
7. Place the crown slightly above the soil (so that the midpoint is even with the soil surface). The uppermost roots should be ¼” below the soil.
8. Fill in the around the plant with additional soil.
9. Remove all flowers and runners for the first six weeks. This is a time for the plant to establish itself and all the energy should be used for plant growth and strength.
10. Continue to water regularly, even daily, until growing season. After this time, water when the top of the soil is dry.
11. Indoor plants require regular fertilization. If no slow-release fertilizer was added to the potting soil, fertilize plants with a high potassium fertilizer every ten days starting when they begin to bloom and stopping two weeks after harvesting.

Planting in Hanging Baskets 

Hanging baskets provide a great way to grow strawberries away from the many pests that love to eat them. Simply place 5-6 plants in a basket in the spring and allow them to grow the same as growing in a container. If you’d like to get an awesome strawberry display, follow these steps:

What You Will Need: 

• 24 Strawberry plants
• 16” Wire basket
• High quality potting soil
• Sphagnum moss, coconut fiber or specialty basket liner 

Steps for Planting the Ultimate Hanging Basket: 

1. Begin by lining the basket with either the damp sphagnum moss, coconut fiber or basket liner.
2. Insert 18 of the plants into the liner around the side of the basket. This gives the plant a very full appearance.
3. Once all the plants are in place, fill the basket with potting soil.
4. Plant the remaining 6 plants on the top of the basket.
5. Water thoroughly after the initial planting and continue to keep the soil moist.
6. Hang the basket in an area that receives plenty of full sun.
7. Rotate the basket frequently to allow adequate sun to reach all of the plants.
8. If maintained, fruit will continue to produce for approximately three years. 

Harvesting 

Strawberries require gentle handling and picking to keep their beautiful shape and color. Here’s how to pick your strawberries for a splendid presentation and tasty treats!

 What You Will Need: 

• Shallow bowls 

Steps for Harvesting: 

1. When the berries reach a bright red color, they are ready to be harvested.
2. Carefully look inside the leaves for the reddest strawberries.
3. Remove the strawberry by gently grasping the stem above the berry and pulling with a slight twisting motion. Allow the berry to gently fall into your hand.
4. Continue until you have 3-4 berries in your hand.
5. Gently place the berries in the bowl, being careful not to throw or drop them as this can cause bruising.
6. Continue picking until the bowl is no fuller than five inches deep. Packing the berries too deep causes them to crush from the weight.
7. Remove any berries that are over-ripened, damaged by insects or are defective and dispose of them.
8. Store berries in a cool place. They will keep for approximately 3 days in the refrigerator.
9. Now it’s time to enjoy your berries! Strawberries are easy to freeze and make wonderful desserts and jams. They are also very tasty all on their own or on top of shortcake. So be creative and enjoy! 

Additional Tips and Advice 

1. Strawberry plants are subject to fruit rot, root rot and fungus. A local nursery can help you determine which plants will thrive in your area and which viruses you will need to watch out for.
2. Slugs and snails can overtake a strawberry plant. If your container is kept outside for a portion of the day, check your plants regularly for any unwanted visitors.
3. Aphids and spider mites can be controlled with dusting or spraying.
4. Read all packaging for safety information. It’s usually safe to treat most problems up until the fruit is set.

Alfalfa sprouts are nutritious, have a variety of uses, and couldn’t be simpler to grow. With a growth time of just a couple of days, you can always have fresh sprouts available for use on salads, sandwiches and many other delightful treats.

What You Will Need:

• Quart sized glass jar (the kind used for canning)
• Alfalfa seeds
• Water
• Screen, woven material or old pantyhose
• Rubber band, string, or jar lid (just the ring part)

How to Grow Alfalfa Sprouts:

1. It’s often best to start small and continue to grow sprouts. They quickly grow and you don’t want to have too many when you first start eating them.
2. Begin by placing 2-3 tablespoons of seeds on a plate and carefully inspect them for any damaged, withered or otherwise unhealthy seeds. Discard any bad seeds and place the rest into the glass jar.
3. Prepare the top of the jar by covering it with the woven fabric, screen, or hose. Keep the cover secure with a rubber band, string or lid ring.
4. Cover the seeds with water. Fill the jar with water to a height of 1-2 inches above the seeds.
5. Set the jar on the counter and allow the seeds to soak overnight.
6. After the seeds have soaked overnight, remove the water by simply turning the jar over and allowing the water to drain through the cloth. Ensure that all the water is out or it may cause the seeds to rot. Do not remove the seeds from the container.
7. Roll the container around to distribute the seeds all around the outside and let it remain on its side.
8. The sprouts will grow best in slightly warmer temperatures, but do not need sunlight at this point.
9. Rinse the seeds and jar everyday with cool water, twice a day if the temperatures are warmer. This step is important to remove any disease organisms or toxins that may accumulate in the jar while it sets. If a funky smell develops in the jar, you need to rinse it more often.
10. Continue rinsing for 4-5 days until the sprouts are ready to harvest. Typically the sprouts will be between 1-2 inches in length when they are ready to be harvested.
11. Simply give them a good rinse and shake away any excess water.
12. Spread the sprouts out on a tray or plate and place them in the sun for a short while, only 15 minutes or so. This allows the leaves to turn greener and important enzymes to become activated.
13. They’re ready to use immediately on salads, sandwiches, soups, dips – whatever you please!
14. Start a new jar every few days and it’ll be ready when the first one is all consumed.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Not all water is fit to drink, much less grow sprouts. Ensure that you use quality water to keep your sprouts as healthy and nutritional as possible.
• Another method is to place the seeds on a clean tray from a red clay pot. Set the tray in a dish with water. The clay tray will gradually soak up the water offering the right amount of moisture for the seeds to sprout.
• If you want to remove the brown seed coats, simply place the sprouts in a bowl of water, swish them around a little. The seed coats will float to the top where you can easily remove them.
• To keep your sprouts fresh, store them in the refrigerator.

If you’re planning to grow herbs, chances are oregano is going to be included in your selection. Good choice! Oregano is easy to grow and is a perennial herb, meaning that it continues to grow year after year. Whether you’re planting in your garden or as a houseplant, oregano is sure to be a winner.

Before You Plant Oregano

Find a Suitable Place:

• Oregano is a perennial, it typically produces quality leaves for 2-4 years, so choose an appropriate spot where it can stay.
• Marked by its Mediterranean origin, oregano likes to grow in full sun.

Prepare the soil:

• Light chalky soil is best for this herb.
• Oregano also requires well-drained soil.
• Fortunately, very little preparation is needed as oregano typically grows just fine in average soil.

Planting/Growing Oregano

What You Will Need:

• Oregano seeds
• Mulch
• Fertilizer (only for container plants)
• Garden spade
• Stick or other row marker

How to Plant Oregano:

1. Oregano seeds can be sown directly into the soil in the beginning of spring, usually around April.
2. Work the dirt with the garden spade until loose and form the rows marked with a labeled stick.
3. Plant the seeds 3/4 inch deep and 6 inches apart. Rows should be spaced 18 inches apart.
4. Cover with removed soil and pat gently to cover.
5. Water until soil is moist and cover the area with mulch to retain moisture and prevent weeds.
6. Seeds will sprout in approximately 2 weeks.
7. When seeds have sprouted, thin plants to 12 inches apart.
8. Seeds can also be started in containers around March and transplanted 12 inches apart.
9. Keep the soil moist for the first few months, after which the plant will be able to tolerate dry conditions, including drought.
10. Avoid adding fertilizer to garden plants to keep the flavor strong.
11. If planting oregano in a container, follow the same planting procedures to start. Transplant the seedlings to a 12 inch pot at the end of spring, usually around May.
12. Water container only when dry and feed twice during the growing season.
13. Oregano plants can grow a bit out of control, so cut back straying stems regularly to keep the plant at the optimum size.
14. At the end of the season, cut back the leaves and cover the area with mulch to protect the roots from the cold winter.

Harvesting Oregano

What You Will Need:

• Garden clippers or scissors

Steps for Care and Maintenance:

1. As soon as the plant is several inches tall and has developed a couple dozen leaves, it is okay to begin harvesting.
2. Pick the young leaves as they have the most flavor.
3. It is best to harvest early in the morning while the oils are the strongest.
4. Leaves are best harvested right before flowers form, usually in July. If seeds have already developed, the leaves will most likely have developed a bitter taste.
5. To extend the harvesting season, trim off the flowers as soon as they begin to develop. This stops the production of seeds allowing harvesting to take place into November.
6. Allow the plant to remain as the leaves provide necessary protection from frost and the cold winter. New plants will emerge in the spring.
7. Once the herb is rinsed with cold water, it’s ready to use, just chop for cooking or store whole leaves in Ziploc bags in the freezer or refrigerator.
8. Some feel oregano is best used dried. Harvest the leaves on a dry day and allow keep in a cool dark place until they are thoroughly dried out. Store in an airtight container. Dried oregano will last for 3-4 months.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Since the leaves of the oregano are eaten, avoid using any pesticides or sprays. If pests become a problem, try an organic treatment. Be sure to check the label carefully.
• Oregano is a must-have for Italian cooking. You simply can’t have pizza or spaghetti sauce without it!
• After 2-4 years, the plant starts to get woody and will need to be replaced.
• Oregano is a great companion plant for broccoli and beans. It deters the pests that tend to attack these vegetables.

Stevia (or stevia rebaudiana) is an herb that has been the focus of much unjustified controversy and for a while was under strict scrutiny by the FDA. The plant originated in Paraguay and is sometimes known as “Sweet Herb of Paraguay.” Concentrated Stevia powder is sold in many natural food stores as a dietary supplement, but it is know for the sweetness in lieu of high calorie sugar, although due to restrictions, it cannot currently be sold as a “natural sweetener,” even though that’s what it is often used for. Home-grown Stevia lacks the potency of the refined powder sold in stores, which has a stevioside content (the stuff that makes Stevia sweet) of about 81 to 91 percent. The stevioside content in a home grown Stevia leaf is about 12 percent. Still home grown Stevia leaves can act as a nice supplement to the Stevia powder that you already use.

Before you Plant

Choose the Right Type of Stevia:

• Stevia grows fairly quickly in moderate temperatures and can be grown in most climates zone so long as the temperature stays above 40 degrees for the length of the growing season. Of course, depending upon your zone, the length of your Stevia growing season may vary.
• Young Stevia plants are sensitive to cold and frost, and should only be planted outdoors after the danger of the last frost has passed, and the soil has warmed up to 50 or 60 degrees Fahrenheit. In the coldest zones (Zones 1 and 2) this means you might not be planting until mid to late June. In the warmest zones (Zones 10 and 11) you may be planting as early as January or February.
• In the colder zones, Stevia should be treated as an annual, and will need to be replanted every year. In the warmer climates where the winters are not harsh, Stevia can be treated as a perennial and will likely survive for two or three harvests.
• Stevia also does well in a container and can be grown indoors, so long as you have sufficient lighting.
• It maybe difficult to find Stevia plants for transplanting, and you may have to do a bit of digging to find someone who sells them. Check with your local natural foods stores. There are also several mail-order businesses that will ship the Stevia plants to you. Even then, the potency of the Stevia leaves may vary from one distributer to another, so it is best to ask around to find one who is reputable and with whom others have had good experiences.

Find a Suitable Place

• Stevia prefers sunlight, but will do fine with light shade, especially if you’re planting in one of the warmer climates where temperatures may climb over 100 degrees in the summer.
• The garden patch where you intend to plant the Stevia should be well-drained and not subject to standing water. Consider planting at the top of a gentle slope. Do not choose a spot that is at the bottom of a hill or slope, where water would tend to pond.
• Stevia does best when it’s planted by itself, not with other herbs or flowers.
• If planting Stevia in a container garden, make sure it is in a spot that gets adequate sunlight, and that is protected from frost and cold.

Prepare the Soil:

• Stevia thrives well in rich, loamy soil; the soil should have plenty of compost.
• In their natural environment, Stevia is found in soil with a pH content of 4 to 5, but it will do fine in soil with pH contents as high as 9.
• Prior to planting, turn the soil with a garden spade, mixing in the compost and removing large weeds, twigs, branches, rocks, stones and other debris.
• You should clear the soil of as many weeds as possible because once the weeds take root, it will be difficult to take them out without disturbing the Stevia, whose roots tend to run shallow.
• The temperature of the soil should be above 50 degrees, and ideally in the 60 degree range.

Planting and Growing Stevia

What You Will Need:

• Gardening gloves
• Started Stevia plants
• Prepared soil (see above)
• Garden Trowel
• Mulch

Steps for Planting and Growing Stevia:

1. Of course, Stevia can be started by seeds, but it is definitely not recommended. Stevia seeds are incredibly hard to germinate and the plants they produce are inconsistent with regard to stevioside content (sweetness levels). Consequently, the best way to cultivate Stevia is to use plants that have been started.
2. Prepare a hole large enough to accommodate the roots of your young Stevia plant.
3. Gently remove the Stevia plant from the starter container (keeping some soil around the roots) and place in the prepared hole.
4. Fill the hole around the plant up to its base with soil, and tamp down so that the plant stays secure.
5. Water the area lightly.
6. Place a generous amount of mulch around the base of the plant to protect the roots, which tend to run shallow, from drying out.
7. Allow at least 18 inches between your Stevia plants and about 20 to 24 inches between the rows to allow for proper growth. Stevia will grow about 2&½ feet high with a spread of about 2 feet.

Maintenance and Harvesting Stevia

What You Will Need:

• Gardening Gloves
• Gardening hose or watering can
• Fertilizer (low in nitrogen)
• Pruning Shears
• Drying screen or net
• Coffee grinder (optional)

Steps for Maintaining and Harvesting Stevia:

1. Water your Stevia plants just enough to keep them from wilting; overwatering will reduce the production of stevioside and can cause the roots to rot.
2. Leaf production can be enhanced by periodic application of fertilizer. Fertilizers low in nitrogen seem to work best.
3. If your plant starts to develop flowers, it is best to pinch them off before they bloom; allowing the flower to bloom will cut down on leaf production, and cause the leaf to take on a bitter taste.
4. Harvest your Stevia leaves in late autumn. The cool autumn temperatures and shorter days intensify the sweetness so many gardeners will postpone the harvest as long as possible.
5. Cut the branches of your Stevia plant with a pruning shears prior to stripping the leaves; this will make the task easier. You may also want to clip the very tips of the stems as they contain nearly as much stevioside as the leaves.
6. Once you have harvested your leaves, dry them by laying them on a screen or net and keep them in a warm location with good air circulation. If the days are still warm enough, you may want to keep them outdoors in the sun, which should have them dried in about 12 hours. Otherwise, you should keep them inside and preferably place them under a light or low level heat lamp to speed drying. Drying that takes longer than 12 hours may have an adverse affect on the sweetness of the leaves.
7. Crushing the leaves is the final step in releasing the sweetness of the Stevia plant. For this step, try using a coffee grinder; it will give you a finer powder and is a lot quicker than grinding the leaves by hand.

Additional Tips and Advice

• In the warmer climates, if you don’t cut your Stevia stems down too far, the plant will likely bloom again. However, you should only get about two seasons out of the plant, after which the plant will not be as productive and the leaves will start to lose their sweetness.
• In the colder climates, your Stevia plant won’t likely survive the winter so you will need to replant in the spring. Try propagating your plant from your existing Stevia plant before the winter sets in by taking a cutting from your plant, coating the end in root hormone and planting it in a rooting medium for two to three weeks. Then, it should be re-potted in rich potting soil and kept indoors in a warm, sunny location. When the warm weather of spring arrives, you can transplant it into your garden.
• You can make your own liquid Stevia by adding a cup of warm water to ¼ cup of finely crushed Stevia leaves. Let the mixture set for 24 hours and store in the refrigerator. The Stevia leaves will not dissolve, but they will transfer their sweetness to the water.
• Stevia does have its limitations and it is not a true substitute for sugar in all instances. It doesn’t dissolve and does have an aftertaste that some people find unpleasant. Rather than a sugar substitute, consider it more as a flavoring, as you would any other herb, and you will surely find some enjoyable uses for it.

Starting a vineyard is no small task, but is one that can reap big rewards. With careful planning and execution, you can ensure that your vineyard will provide abundant crops for many years.

Before You Plant

Select the Right Site:

There are many factors to consider when choosing the perfect place for your vineyard.

• Climate – Take a close look at the high/low temperatures and frost-free periods for your area. Factors such as wind and altitude are also important to note. These factors help in determining where your vineyard will prosper.
• Sunlight – Grapes require sun to grow well. Find an area that is away from trees and other shade-producing plants.
• Soils – The quality of the soil in the area is another key factor. Consider the fertility, types of soils, drainage and the depth of the soil.
• Water – This includes both the quality as well as water sources. How much water is available from wells, etc. in the area and what irrigation options are available?
• Field Size – How large will your vineyard be? Determine this early on when you decide which grapes you plan to grow and how much room they will require.
• Wineries – Ultimately, you’ll want to produce wine from your grapes. If you are not completing this yourself, how close is the nearest winery?
• Other factors – Agricultural zoning and regulations, sources of power and cost of the land are other considerations that need to be thought out when choosing a place to start your vineyard.

How to Select Grapes:

There are four major types of grapes grown around the world:

1. Vitis Vinifera
2. Vitis Lubrusca,
3. Hybrids of these two
4. Vitis Rotoundifolia.

Research which type will grow best in your location and/or visit local vineyards to see what types of grapes grow well in your area.

Prepare the Soil:

• Remove the top layer of dirt, including all weeds and roots, and discard.
• Till the soil thoroughly to provide loose, workable ground for planting.

Planting Vines

What You Will Need:

• Grapevine (with roots established)
• Small shovel or spade
• Trellis or grape arbor
• Copper wire or string
• Plastic mesh
• Potting soil
• Fertilizer (10-20-10)

How to Plant Grapes:

1. Begin by marking the rows by making 3-4 inch grooves through the loosened soil.
2. Next, place stakes where each grapevine will be planted. Space plants 6-8 feet apart.
3. Dig a hole that is twice the size of the pot that your vines are planted in and slightly deeper.
4. Mix potting soil with the original soil and place a small amount of the mixture into the hole.
5. Water the bottom of the hole as well as the plant in the pot prior to planting.
6. Place the grapevine into the hole and fill in with remaining soil mixture.
7. Water regularly during dry conditions, but do not allow the plants to become water-logged as this can lead to root rot.
8. Fertilize the vines twice each year around the base (at least six inches out), do not allow fertilizer to get too close or it may burn the plant. Water the area to release the fertilizer.
9. Plants will begin to grow in the spring, if planted in the fall. If you are planting in the spring, you will see some growth, but most likely will not have grapes for another year or two.

Year Two:

1. This year you want to begin training the vines where to grow. This is accomplished by tying them to the trellis or posts in the direction they should grow.
2. When fruit begins to grow, add plastic mesh over the plants to prevent birds from eating them.

Pruning/Harvesting Grapes

Pruning your grapevines is the most important part of this ‘art.’ Pruning allows you to manage the plant, regulate the size of the crop and adjust the quality of the fruit.

What You Will Need:

• Clippers / lopping shears

Learning When and How to Prune:

1. The art of pruning is developed over time and is affected mostly by your desired outcome. Here are some pruning times, each with different outcomes:
   • Summer Pruning to Increase Fruit Growth: Trim back vines when they have exceeded 2-3 feet of growth. This directs the energy back into the fruit, rather than plant growth, making a sweeter, more productive crop.
   • Fall Pruning: These prunings are not recommended and should only be done if you are sure there will be no warm spells that would allow growth before winter. Typically it is best to wait and do a winter pruning.
   • Winter/Spring Pruning: Most plants are pruned in late winter to allow for new growth. The key to this is pruning early enough that new growth has not already begun and late enough that no new growth will form before a frost. If this happens, it will lead to freeze damage which is dangerous for your grapevines. It is often best to prune no more than one month before the last frost.
2. Pruning is a detailed process, there are even books devoted to pruning grapevines. Here are some basic rules to get you started.
   • Lateral shoots (those growing to the side) are not fruitful and should be removed. Only keep these shoots if you need them to grow onto the trellis for support.
   • Prune new shoots way back the first few years to encourage growth of the main vine.
   • Keep the first 6-12 buds on the cane, these produce the fruit, and trim back the rest unless they are needed for trellis support.
   • Prune any brown or brittle buds as they have been winter damaged and need to be removed.
   • Prune away enough of the vine to allow plenty of air and sunlight to reach the fruit and vines.
3. Harvest your grapes when the grape at the bottom of the bunch is sweet. If some of the grapes are not fully ripened, they can be ripened by setting in the sun for a day or two.

Ginger is popular in American food, but it’s practically a staple in Asian cuisine. Not only is it easy to grow and delicious in recipes, but studies show that ginger packs powerful health benefits. Although it is a tropical plant, it will adapt easily to indoor and container planting, making it possible for anyone to enjoy fresh ginger throughout much of the year. Here’s what you need to know to bring this favorite into your own kitchen.

Before You Plant

Choose the Right Type of Ginger:

• For practical purposes, ginger is most often home-grown from tubers. Your local grocery store is the best place to find ginger root to propagate.
• The most popular kind of ginger is basic ginger root (Zingiber officinale). It is commonly used in America for cookies, breads, and Ginger ales, while Asian recipes include ginger in savory dishes.
• Choose a tuber that looks healthy and plump. It should be firm with several fingers or growing buds. Avoid dry or damaged pieces.
• Not all gingers are considered edible, some types are instead prized for the plants and flowers.

Find a Suitable Place:

• Plan to grow ginger indoors unless you live in the extreme southern portions of the U.S. or in one of the desert states. Growers in zone 10 or higher will have the most success outdoors.
• Provide your ginger with a generous amount of room. Containers should be fully twice the size of the tuber. To plant more than one tuber in a single container, get one that is 14″-16″ in diameter and 12″ deep.
• Outdoors, choose a spot with light shade and well-drained soil.
• Protect plants from high winds.

Prepare the soil:

• Mix organic material or prepared compost into soil to fill the container (or amend garden soil in the same manner).
• Ginger will grow quite well in commercially prepared potting soil.

Planting/Growing Ginger

What You Will Need:

• Ginger root
• Prepared soil

How to Plant Ginger:

1. Ginger should not be placed outdoors until daytime temperatures exceed 75 degrees.
2. Soak tubers overnight in water before planting.
3. Fill containers with prepared soil, or loosen the dirt in your garden location.
4. Place ginger in the soil with the buds facing up.
5. Cover with a very thin layer of soil. (Some growers suggest leaving it uncovered).
6. Water lightly until the plant becomes established.

Harvesting/Pruning Ginger

Ginger requires very little maintenance. Here’s what you need to do.

What You Will Need:

• Garden clippers or scissors
• Small garden trowel

Steps for Care and Maintenance:

1. Younger ginger plants should remain in the shade.
2. Water regularly to maintain moist (not wet) soil.
3. Once the plant matures, clip tender new shoots for cooking at any time.
4. To harvest ginger root, dig up new tubers that appear at the base of the plant.
5. Move plants indoors when outdoor temperatures dip below 50 degrees.
6. Ginger is dormant during the winter months. Allow the plant to dry during this time.

Additional Tips and Advice

• Roots reach their optimum flavor at 265 days.
• To store ginger, wash (don’t peel) tubers before placing them in a bag and freezing them. Remove ginger from the freezer and use a vegetable peeler to pare off portions as you need them.
• Plants will mature in about ten months, reaching heights of 2″-4″.